hot water from inverter

[Hayden Watson]

A thousand apologies concerning your name - and I promise not make the same mistake twice.

As to the link to the manual, yes access to entire manual may prove handy to have. For example - your putting the water heater in the by- pass circuit is quite correct on a Universal whereas that is verboten on other manufacturer motor cooling designs. This is because in the Universal the by-pass circuit is still open even if the main circuit is active - ie thermostat open. I confess surprise on that one.

However to the detail of that low mount diagram - your hookup may not be exactly the same. N.B. the petcock at the heater return line even in a low mount case. That is - even if the water tank is lower - Universal still advises a petcock at the heater thus to eliminate any possibility of persistent air pocket (albeit one not amounting to an air lock. ) Might try it. Putting one in is simple, cheap, and there is no downside.

Incidentally, I imagine if you take the space heater out of the calculus your motor operating temp will rise. This is - of course - a separate and parallel issue to creating hot water at the water heater.

Charles Erwin

No worries on the name. Actually my first, middle and last names are all more common as sir names than as first so I have been called all kinds of stuff, just don't call me late for dinner!

When I replumb everything I will put a tee with capped line at the highest point below deck to give a secondary purge point. It will also give me a good point to attach my drill pump to circulate coolant for purging without the need to spill coolant while reconnecting the line. I am thinking that if I put a ball valve each side of the T then I can purge one side of the circuit and then the other.

The cabin heater might be causing the low heat issue but I would be surprise due to the overheating issue when the raw water HX was plugged up.

 

[jibes138]

No worries on the name. Actually my first, middle and last names are all more common as sir names than as first so I have been called all kinds of stuff, just don't call me late for dinner! When I replumb everything I will put a tee with capped line at the highest point below deck to give a secondary purge point. It will also give me a good point to attach my drill pump to circulate coolant for purging without the need to spill coolant while reconnecting the line. I am thinking that if I put a ball valve each side of the T then I can purge one side of the circuit and then the other. The cabin heater might be causing the low heat issue but I would be surprise due to the overheating issue when the raw water HX was plugged up.

why don't you put a couple y valves and bypass that cabin heater. Aren't you roasting when it's warm out?

 

[Hayden Watson]

why don't you put a couple y valves and bypass that cabin heater. Aren't you roasting when it's warm out?

jibes -

You have obviously never sailing in the Pacific Northwest! In August Puget Sound water temperature get all the way up to 55º.

I have been living here for 10 years and the hottest temperature I have seen on land was 100º and that was only for two days. in most years it doesn't get over 80º. On the water, I don't think I have ever seen the air temp go over 75º so this is not a problem. On the other hand, most years we do not drop below freezing more than a couple of times.

I also have a forced air diesel furnace and it is used on every cruise, winter and summer.

 

[Benny17441]

Have you considered the workings of your sink or shower fixtures? Is cold water from the boat's water tank being introduced jointly with water from the water heater? What is the actual temperature, not feels like, of the water coming out of the heater?

 

[Hayden Watson]

Have you considered the workings of your sink or shower fixtures? Is cold water from the boat's water tank being introduced jointly with water from the water heater? What is the actual temperature, not feels like, of the water coming out of the heater?

The water line to the sinks does not have a mixing valve. I will install one when/if I can get the water to heat up to engine temp.

 

[Benny17441]

Well it seems all we can do is await the response from the WH manufacturer. I admire your patience as I would have already removed the tank and subjected it to a bench test of its efficiency.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Well it seems all we can do is await the response from the WH manufacturer. I admire your patience as I would have already removed the tank and subjected it to a bench test of its efficiency.

It is definitely not a case of patience. In order to remove the tank, I need to first remove the fuel tank. That means draining it, and cutting out the tabs that are fiber glassed to the hull. :cussing: