(hopefully) minor Yanmar issues

[bugbitten]

Folks,

I'm getting my 9.2A's 2GM20F up and running and have encountered a couple of issues.

I finally cleaned the very clogged Racor filter and now, in addition to a smoother-running engine, I have a fuel leak that I believe is coming from the banjo fitting on the fuel line feeding the high-pressure pump. Should I just try tightening it a bit, or something more?

Also, I'm getting an oil leak at the middle of the front (timing gear) cover. It seems to be coming from the bottom of what I think they call the starting gear cover. Can I just pull the two Phillips screws, clean it, apply some RTV, and see what happens? Any chance it's more serious, like a leaking camshaft bearing seal?

I've put some pics on my boat's engine page, in case that helps. I know little about diesels and don't want to screw anything up.

http://web.me.com/jlivingston3/Boats/Karma_-_engine.html

Thanks.

John

 

[woodster]

John that filter was uggly to say the least.....you may need to remove your tank and give it a good cleaning .......as for the fuel line leak at the banjo there is some crush washers made out of copper that you can replace and that should work for that....as for the cam shaft cover remove the 2 screws and see what is under there.... i looked in the manual and could not tell form that if there is a seal or not...seems by the manual there is none .....if you cant find a gasket for the cover you can always get some gasket material and make your own ...you know like cutting out paper dolls lol ...hope this helps ...

regards

woody

 

[BobM]

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/drip-drip-drip-leaky-banjo-bolt-58859.html

They covered it pretty thoroughly. New washers and a new bolt and perhaps chase the threads if that doesn't work.

 

[bugbitten]

Thanks Woody and Bob. As often as you both come to my rescue, I need to send you a case o' beer or the like.

I've got new crush washers on hand. I pulled the cam cover and didn't see much in the way of oil accumulated behind it. Once the fuel line is back in place, I'll try running the engine without the cover and see if there is any obvious oil leakage.

I've got the alternator off at present, too, looking at the rear for a tach connection. I don't see one, so I may haul it to an alternator shop to see if they can add one.

I'm about to enter the gaping MAW of "might as well," as I'm thinking I should pull the inop fuel tank sender while I'm down there and see what's up with it. Maybe I can get a mirror and light lined up to see inside the tank, while I'm at it, and get some idea of how gunked up it is.

John

 

[bugbitten]

Here are a couple of shots of the oil leakage area. The cup covering it did not have any significant oil in it, but I'm still thinking that seal may be going.

 

[BobM]

Do yourself a favor. Buy a new plastic tank if yours is still the original aluminum one. It just isn't a matter of if it will fail and dump diesel in your bilge, just when. The PO pulled it and put some epoxy on the pinholes, but if I had known he was going to pull the tank and do all that I would have drop shipped him a new one in a heartbeat. I may even replace mine with a much smaller tank. I use about 5 gallons a season tops.

 

[bugbitten]

How's the tank come out? I need to yank the hot water heater at some point. Can the fuel tank come out the back of the quarterberth, too? Seems like any boat that's going to last more than 20 years should have a big zipper connecting the deck to the hull so you could unzip it, tilt the deck back, and prop it open like the hood of a car.

The crush washers I'd bought at Autozone don't fit. I've got a bunch of Yanmar ones, along with some new hoses, a new fuel hose (the one leading to the leaking area), fuel hose bolt, etc., coming from Torreson's, but a lot of it had to be special ordered. I'm heading to a marine diesel shop today to see if I can get the copper washers. I'd like to crank the engine to see if that camshaft seal is leaking.

John

 

[bugbitten]

Bob's mentioning a smaller tank had me looking at portable, flexible tanks. Seems like one of those, that didn't need a vent tube, would be great for day-to-day. You could just hang it from a bulkhead (properly anchored, of course), and easily take it ashore for cleaning, etc. You could even leave the big tank in place (emptied and cleaned), should you (or the next owner) be inclined to take a longer trip.

 

[BobM]

You may still need a vent and of course a return for a diesel. My ideal would be two small tanks so I could switch if I had a fuel issue.

 

[bugbitten]

I thought maybe the flexible nature of the tank would obviate the need for a vent, but that's just a guess. Can you get the original tank out w/o pulling the engine, or do you have to cut it up?

Finally got my hands on two crush washers that fit. Should retry the engine today.

John

 

[BobM]

Since the PO had mine out, cleaned it out, patched it and re-installed it I can confirm it comes out. The only way it could have come out is through the cockpit storage hatch.

 

[bugbitten]

Solved the fuel leak with the new crush washers today. Engine just keeps running sweeter. However, the oil leak is getting worse. It does seem to be coming from the camshaft seal. Any tips on getting that pulled and replaced without scratching any surfaces? Also, does anyone have a part number for this seal? I've looked in what I thought was my comprehensive Yanmar parts manual and I don't see the seal. The lettering on the NGK seal is very small and hard to make out, but it looks like AC0684E. Google indicates it's probably NOK not NGK, but that's about as far as I've gotten.

John

 

[bugbitten]

I'm working on locating the camshaft seal. I found the right part number in the NOK catalog, but haven't found anyone selling it yet. My concern now is, once I find it, can I safely install it without having to pull the timing gear cover? I'm hearing that that's pretty much a PITA. Would it be possible to put a hole in the face of the seal, insert the pointy end of my seal puller in it, and yank it out while still on the engine? If this seal's going, am I going to be looking at replacing a bunch of them soon?

John

 

[woodster]

from the pic you have just stick the seal pulling tool on the lip of the seal ....turn it 90 degrees and start pulling it out.....you can buy the seal at most yanmar dealers and they are not that pricey....or maybe go to a napa store......when installing the new one just make sure you tap it back in a little at a time to keep i perpinduclar to the face of its mounting hole in order not to warp it........dont score the polished surface of the shaft comming in or out ..... one thing here....... in that pic the oil seems to be comming out at the bolt on the bottom and not the seal its self.... unless you wiped it of around the seal....

regards

woody

 

[bugbitten]

Thanks, Woody. It does look like it's coming from the bolt hole, but I'm pretty sure it's really coming from the seal. That bolt hole should not go all the way through the cover, but I'll double-check. I looked at the seal carefully and you could definitely see a leak.

Do you think I should buy one of the gasket sets that has all the seals, figuring I'm going to start needing more of them?

Also, does your camshaft have the cross pin on the end that allows you to attach a starter handle? Seems like it'd be useful to have that option.

John

 

[ewoden1]

A piece of straight cut pvc or a deep socket wrench socket the diameter of the seal, placed over the camshaft, will serve as a great way to set that seal in straight as you gently tap the end with a small peen hammer. You want a socket or pipe that mates well with the portion of the seal with the metal ring in it. To large and you will peen the seat, that's not good

 

[Lorin Smith]

Seals, like bearings, are almost never "application specific" and can be sourced from ANY good bearing house. Dig out the old, read the number (or measure the I.D. of the case and the O.D. of the shaft) and drive the new one in with a deep socket or any such tool, or if you're careful you can use a soft drift punch (brass or aluminum) and run it.
If your original fuel tank sah never been out it's well past due. You can add a bolt in inspection port that will allow access for cleaning. etc. The alloy tanks are the best choice, and if maintained will last roughly forever. My 8.5 was delivered with a 32 gallon tank. I removed it, cut one end off with a skill saw, cut about another foot from the rest of the tank, then welded the end back on to create an 18 gallon tank, and gained enough free space to relocate my water heater where the extra 14 gallons of diesel used to be.