Hooray! Got the old SeaBee fired up.

[caguy]

Hasn't been running since 1963. Use to run like a champ up until put outback under a pile of old stuff. Had to clean the points plunger but after that fired up on first pull just like the good old days. That old girls idles down to a really nice putt...putt.There are just a few questions I have about it. 1. The lean/rich lever where should that be set after it warms up? In the middle or all of the way lean? Or do you futz with it til it seems right?2. What is the gas oil mixture. I have seen everything from 40:1 to 20:1. I can't find the recommended ratio for that particular motor. 3. Where does the grease or crank oil go into the case? I can't find anything that looks like a plug let alone a dip stick.4. Does anyone have a manual for this model or recognize it from the picture. It was made by Gale for Goodyear but that's all that I have been able to find out about it. I think it may be the 3 hp model. The model number and serial number has gone by way of the rest of the paint.5. Which leads me to my next question whether to repaint it or not. Is it a sin to destroy the years patina?Thanks as always,Frank

 

[Benny]

Some answers.

1) It's hard to tell about carburator adjustment lever. To lean and you can burn the motor up and to rich and it will smoke black. Get it as rich as you can without having it run rough or smoke to much. Often times motors put away for a long time will develop fuel deposits in the carburator causing them to idle poorly and run overly rich.2) Can't help you with the mixture but 40:1 should work with not to much smoke.3) A two Cycle motoe does not have a crankcase. It gets its lubrication from the oil added to the gas. The lower end does use oil SAE 90 or equivalent to lubricate power shafts and bearings. There should be a screw head near the bottom. It can be removed with a flat end large screw driver. 4) Don't have one.5) I would paint it, at to least to arrest some of the corrosion. Try to match the original colors of the motor. To the observer it may look like a classic restored motor as opposed to an old clunker still running.

 

[CalebD]

Cool old outboard Frank.

They don't make them like they used to. I am not an expert on outboards but I have an oldish '73 Johnson 2.5 HP I would like to do the same with so I will share my thoughts.1. If it starts and runs then don't mess with the mixture too much. Tune it by ear as the engine heats up. If it sounds like it needs more oil than push towards rich. I am no expert.2. Follow the directions for the 2 stroke oil on the can/container. Then listen to your engine. If it conks out gradually it could want more oil, or less oil in the gas. But do not run without oil in the gas as it will slowly conk out - don't ask how I know this.3. The lower unit of an outboard usually has it's own grease or oil entry/exit points than the actual motor. So you may have 2 different lubrication reservoirs.The only way to know is to take it apart, piece by piece, or find a decent mechanic. Again, I am not an expert. 4. Manual for this SeaBee is a must.5. I am not an antiques expert on the Road Show but if you are planning on using this engine in water you should re-paint it. It is relatively easy and it will look great. Just get some engine paint from your local auto parts store (color(s) of your choice) and after prepping and cleaning the metal surfaces have at it. A newly painted engine easily shows any leaks or problems in the making (excessive heat etc).6. If the engine is that old and still running you could add lead substitute to the fuel with a tad of Marvel Mystery oil. Sorry, I made this question up: What snake oils work with outboard engines?Good luck with your SeaBee.

 

[patrick]

old engine

i have an old british seagull, and the recommended mix is 25:1

 

[Fred Ficarra]

Wow! I think I'll stay out of this.

I lied. That brings back my youth. Old engines, that is. Don't worry about adding lead to a two stroke. Lead protects old non-hardened valve seats. Of course, two strokes don't have 'em.You should use the latest and greatest oil. The best is 100:1 for outboards.And Frank, how about shipping that guy up here to my house. You'll get it back before next summer but you might not recognize it.

 

[Paul Z]

Web sources

Google Antique Outboards to find information. The attached link is a goodplace to start. This has been a big hobby in the midwest for years so thereare a lot of guys out there. If you paint it; take the time to do it with the correct color, then you havean investment!Hey Fred, I have a couple of early 50s evinrudes and a Montgomery Wards in myshed if you are looking for work!

 

[Fred Ficarra]

AND YOU'RE CLOSE TOO!!!

 

[Chuck R]

Nasty looking,but----------it's beautiful!

Brings back memories for sure. Seems to me as a kid growing up with these ol fellers they all used 24 to one mix. Elgins, Martins, Firestone, Monkey Ward,. There was a slue of "Off bran" outboards selling along side the big three, Johnson-Evanrude-Mercury. Scott-Atwater had a model that would pump out your bilge water.Check out the net as there is probably a number of old outboard web forums you can jaw-jack on.Maybe the old school thinking of "Keep it simple" was pretty good, do ya think?Fun to read about your new found love.

 

[Aaron23537]

I too have a British Seagull

My British Seagull uses a 10:1 mixture, I know it sounds really rich but that is the recommended mix and it works. Also found a place to start for some of your manual needs. http://www.seabeeoutboard.co.uk/

 

[Aaron23537]

More Info

Found more info for your sea bee.They say 20:1 mix.

 

[jackhartjr]

Try...

...the iboats site. I don't think it's been recommended yet.For what it's worth.JackPS...as to mixture, Johnson and Evinrude in the 80' I think had some they recommended a 100:1 mixture. After a bunch blew up the changed it to 50:1 I think.

 

[caguy]

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.

I think I have narrowed the range down from 16:1 to 24:1. This is an American made outboard. The British ones except for a late 60's model are all air cooled. This one is water cooled. After running it for about 10 minutes I was still able to handle the cylinder. Took a closer look at the case again ans there is no oil drain or fill. The gas and oil are premixed. I thought I read someplace that the crank case is packed with grease but I can't find that article again.I'll have some auto pint matched and mixed on Tuesday. Should cool pretty cool on the back of my dink.Thanks for the links, guys they lead to some other forums that should help.Frank