When pulling on the jib sheet to unfurl my jib from the seafurl it is often very hard to pull the rope. The same is tru when trying to furl with the furl line. However if you go to the drum it is easy to turn, both to unfurl and furl. any suggestions.
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What Model/Yr of Boat?
Some models have the roller head sub-deck in the bow. This necessitates passing the furling line thru anchor locker and up thru the deck. Where they exit and pass over the friction plate there is an appreciable amount of drag caused by this. I now have a single line reefing system (I converted from double line syatem) and installed a thru-deck roller that has virtually eliminated the drag and now runs fairly free.
Some models have the roller head sub-deck in the bow. This necessitates passing the furling line thru anchor locker and up thru the deck. Where they exit and pass over the friction plate there is an appreciable amount of drag caused by this. I now have a single line reefing system (I converted from double line syatem) and installed a thru-deck roller that has virtually eliminated the drag and now runs fairly free.
Hood Sea Furl - Ease the halyard tension.
I've experienced the same thing and found that it can be alleviated by easing the jib halyard very slightly. I bend the jib on by raising the halyard to the optimal point to prevent halyard wrap. (On my boat that's all the way to the block on the mast.) Then, at the tack, I tension and tie-off the downhaul. And then, to reduce furling friction. I ease the jib halyard about 3/4 in. and re-cleat it. Try this idea and experiment a bit to find the amount of halyard adjustment to make. Too loose and the luff puckers. :-(
I've experienced the same thing and found that it can be alleviated by easing the jib halyard very slightly. I bend the jib on by raising the halyard to the optimal point to prevent halyard wrap. (On my boat that's all the way to the block on the mast.) Then, at the tack, I tension and tie-off the downhaul. And then, to reduce furling friction. I ease the jib halyard about 3/4 in. and re-cleat it. Try this idea and experiment a bit to find the amount of halyard adjustment to make. Too loose and the luff puckers. :-(
Did you check the line on the drum
Ron, I have the Seafurl 707 and had a similar problem because my furling line would overlap and load on the drum all at the top causing friction against the guides. Once I played around with the furling line angle to get a perfect 90 degree approach to the drum the problem went away. Keep on mind that if you let the genoa out to fast you may still get overlaps. You have to keep some friction on the furling line when letting the genoa out. Kevin
Ron, I have the Seafurl 707 and had a similar problem because my furling line would overlap and load on the drum all at the top causing friction against the guides. Once I played around with the furling line angle to get a perfect 90 degree approach to the drum the problem went away. Keep on mind that if you let the genoa out to fast you may still get overlaps. You have to keep some friction on the furling line when letting the genoa out. Kevin
Seafurl
We had a similar problem. I found the entire furler drum was rotating when I would pull on either furler line. The drum rotated to the point the furler line was chafing on the edges of the opening which lets the line enter and leave the drum. Without load on the line the drum stayed in its normal position and turned freely. I had to more rigidly fix the shackle that prevents the base of the drum from rotating. Hope this makes sense. I finally put on the single line conversion unit and have not had a bit of trouble since. Good luck with your furler.
We had a similar problem. I found the entire furler drum was rotating when I would pull on either furler line. The drum rotated to the point the furler line was chafing on the edges of the opening which lets the line enter and leave the drum. Without load on the line the drum stayed in its normal position and turned freely. I had to more rigidly fix the shackle that prevents the base of the drum from rotating. Hope this makes sense. I finally put on the single line conversion unit and have not had a bit of trouble since. Good luck with your furler.
Same Problem On Our 42
I tried everything mentioned in this thread to no avail. Eventually I discovered that the swivel had too much plan longitudinally. It was allowing the parts attached to the sail and to the halyard to torque enough that they were rubbing on the center tube. I made a washer to put under the clip on one end to take out the play, and now you can furl or unfurl the sail with one hand. If you take the swivel apart to really clean it, use clear toothpaste or KY jelly to hold the ball bearings in place while you reassemble it.
I tried everything mentioned in this thread to no avail. Eventually I discovered that the swivel had too much plan longitudinally. It was allowing the parts attached to the sail and to the halyard to torque enough that they were rubbing on the center tube. I made a washer to put under the clip on one end to take out the play, and now you can furl or unfurl the sail with one hand. If you take the swivel apart to really clean it, use clear toothpaste or KY jelly to hold the ball bearings in place while you reassemble it.
Be very careful or you will loose your marbles
I took mine apart to repair it and one little slip, all hell broke loose. I just sat there holding the drum and helplessly watching all the bearings go every which way into the anchor locker. Of course some of them went straight for the drain hole and took off. I had to order another set from the factory. So, be very very careful when you take it aprt to clean and lube it.
I took mine apart to repair it and one little slip, all hell broke loose. I just sat there holding the drum and helplessly watching all the bearings go every which way into the anchor locker. Of course some of them went straight for the drain hole and took off. I had to order another set from the factory. So, be very very careful when you take it aprt to clean and lube it.
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