My upgraded Hood 800 SL roller furling does not furl or unfurl easily.I repeatedly have to turn the drum manually to get it started or to unfurl. After the first three or four drum turns it seems to work Ok though. I checked the exploded drawings against my set up and it seems to be OK in that regard, except that on my 35.5 the snap shackle attached to the stem fitting below the deck which holds the drum mechanism from sliding around moves horizontally a bit. I guess this is a 35.5 anomaly as other owners have remarked the same. I've been told the furler line is a critical piece of the equation, as the drum is relatively small and ordinary line "alledgedly" jams up or overrides making furling or unfurling problematic. My rigger says the furling line should be "decored" so it is more of a ribbon than round, enabling it to lay flat in the drum and not bind. Has anyone had a similar experience on a 35.5 with a 800 SL system? Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Fred Miller S/V M Squared
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Check the archives.
Fred: There has been many posts on this subject in the archives over the years. The very first thing you should do is try to clean the bearings. You can use carb cleaner that is safe on plastic type parts. I would start with flushing it with generous amounts of water to see if that helps. Then try the carb cleaner. After the carb cleaner has soaked for a while you also need to flush with more water. I am not sure, do you have a continous line or a single line unit? FYI, if you have a continous line unit, it can be upgrade to the single line system for about $500.
Fred: There has been many posts on this subject in the archives over the years. The very first thing you should do is try to clean the bearings. You can use carb cleaner that is safe on plastic type parts. I would start with flushing it with generous amounts of water to see if that helps. Then try the carb cleaner. After the carb cleaner has soaked for a while you also need to flush with more water. I am not sure, do you have a continous line or a single line unit? FYI, if you have a continous line unit, it can be upgrade to the single line system for about $500.
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fred miller
Steve D. A Good Idea But Not the Answer
Steve; The suggestion to clean the unit up is a good idea but not the answer I'm afraid. The unit works freely enough after the first or second sail wrap is manually done at the drum. The problem is getting it started, jib in or jib out position. This is a single line unit. It was upgraded from the Hood continous line system in 1998 by the previous owner. My sence is that it has something to do with the line jamming up as the drum is quite small [the 800 SL is the unit that mounts below the deck level]maybe too much line is initially wrapped on the drum or as Hood suggests, it requires a flat decored line. The attachment for the drum [snap shackle] at the bow stem is also suspect, but it seems other owners have not complained of that aspect. Any other thoughts? Fred M
Steve; The suggestion to clean the unit up is a good idea but not the answer I'm afraid. The unit works freely enough after the first or second sail wrap is manually done at the drum. The problem is getting it started, jib in or jib out position. This is a single line unit. It was upgraded from the Hood continous line system in 1998 by the previous owner. My sence is that it has something to do with the line jamming up as the drum is quite small [the 800 SL is the unit that mounts below the deck level]maybe too much line is initially wrapped on the drum or as Hood suggests, it requires a flat decored line. The attachment for the drum [snap shackle] at the bow stem is also suspect, but it seems other owners have not complained of that aspect. Any other thoughts? Fred M
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Steve O.
Hood woes
Hood does reccomend that a de-cored line be used and they sell them, or you can do it yourself or have a rigger do it for you. Call Hood tech line, the number is on their website at www.pompanette.com I have been having trouble with my Hood 705 CL but they don't make the upgrade kit for the 700 series anymore. They offered to sell me a 800 for half-price.
Hood does reccomend that a de-cored line be used and they sell them, or you can do it yourself or have a rigger do it for you. Call Hood tech line, the number is on their website at www.pompanette.com I have been having trouble with my Hood 705 CL but they don't make the upgrade kit for the 700 series anymore. They offered to sell me a 800 for half-price.
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Les Andersen
Smaller Line
Fred, I also upgraded my continous line unit. I just replaced the fairly large diameter original line with the next size down and it works great and plenty of room on the drum. Make sure the line is something that doesn't stretch. Good luck, Les s/v Mutual Fun
Fred, I also upgraded my continous line unit. I just replaced the fairly large diameter original line with the next size down and it works great and plenty of room on the drum. Make sure the line is something that doesn't stretch. Good luck, Les s/v Mutual Fun
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Dave Baker
De-cored Line
I upgraded to the 800 SL on my 35.5 several years ago. I am using a de-cored line as suggested by Hood (I purchased the line through Boat U.S.). The problem I am having is that the de-cored line is so flat that as it wraps onto the drum when the sail is unfurling the line sometimes jams between the drum and the outer housing.
I upgraded to the 800 SL on my 35.5 several years ago. I am using a de-cored line as suggested by Hood (I purchased the line through Boat U.S.). The problem I am having is that the de-cored line is so flat that as it wraps onto the drum when the sail is unfurling the line sometimes jams between the drum and the outer housing.
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Bob O'Brien
Check your jib halyard tension
If I remember an old forum post correctly, tight jib halyard tension is important to keeping the furling unit from jamming. This year, when I hoisted the jib at the start of the season, I made sure that the halyard tension was exceptionally tight. I then tightened it even further a couple of weeks later after several shake-down sails. I have not had a single problem with my furler yet this year. You may want to check your jib halyard tension - based on your comment about the shackle, tension may not be very tight. Also, I do have the decored furler line, and I believe that reduces the chance of an override.
If I remember an old forum post correctly, tight jib halyard tension is important to keeping the furling unit from jamming. This year, when I hoisted the jib at the start of the season, I made sure that the halyard tension was exceptionally tight. I then tightened it even further a couple of weeks later after several shake-down sails. I have not had a single problem with my furler yet this year. You may want to check your jib halyard tension - based on your comment about the shackle, tension may not be very tight. Also, I do have the decored furler line, and I believe that reduces the chance of an override.
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fred miller
Totally Decored Line Dave ,Won't work
Dave, Hood told me the line is only decored 1/3 of the way coming off the furler, of course. Keeping a little jib sheet tension on while furling might help too. Fred M M Squared
Dave, Hood told me the line is only decored 1/3 of the way coming off the furler, of course. Keeping a little jib sheet tension on while furling might help too. Fred M M Squared
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