My double line Hood roller reefing line is shot. I need to know how to splice this "continuous" line so thaat I can replace it. It is a braided line.
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you have two options. . .
1. Get a nautical knot book and learn how to make the splice, or 2. Have a rigger make the splice for you and then you install the new line. This involves removing the headstayn and furling drum. Or you could thread the new line through and have the rigger make the splice. I guess that makes 3 options.
1. Get a nautical knot book and learn how to make the splice, or 2. Have a rigger make the splice for you and then you install the new line. This involves removing the headstayn and furling drum. Or you could thread the new line through and have the rigger make the splice. I guess that makes 3 options.
Tricky splice
The continuous line splice is a tricky one to make. In fact, there are two ways to do it. One way keeps the line diameter constant over the spliced area, but loses 1/2 the line strength; the other way preserves the full strength of the line but introduces a bulge in the line that doesn't feed through the drum/sheave very well. It takes a skilled rigger to make the second kind of splice while keeping the bulge as small as possible. If you have an LD810 furler, use 7/16" line or 3/8" line to replace the old line. I had my local boat store's rigger make the splice for me, off the boat (using the second method). To install the continuous loop on the boat, you need to disconnect the headstay momentarily to slip the line under it. Loosen off (but not all the way!) the backstay/shrouds (whichever provides headstay tension on your boat), and pull the main clevis pin at the bottom of the turnbuckle. Support the mast with the jib halyard and spinnaker halyard while (before!!) doing this. There is no need to remove the drum/sheave. Just loosen the hex-head bolt that secures the lower half of the drum, slip it down about 1/2" or so, put the line into the jaws of the sheave, and raise the drum half up and retighten. Adjust the gap between the drum halves to about 1/16" and make sure the drum rotates without binding before final tightening. Make sure the opening in the non-rotating (lower) half allows the line to feed without rubbing on the edges. It's really a simple job -- harder to describe than to do. Depending on the size of your lower forestay turnbuckle, you might need to be careful that the furling extrusions don't slip off and go in the drink while the headstay is disconnected. If you loosen the shrouds, you will have to re-tune the mast when you are done. Good luck.
The continuous line splice is a tricky one to make. In fact, there are two ways to do it. One way keeps the line diameter constant over the spliced area, but loses 1/2 the line strength; the other way preserves the full strength of the line but introduces a bulge in the line that doesn't feed through the drum/sheave very well. It takes a skilled rigger to make the second kind of splice while keeping the bulge as small as possible. If you have an LD810 furler, use 7/16" line or 3/8" line to replace the old line. I had my local boat store's rigger make the splice for me, off the boat (using the second method). To install the continuous loop on the boat, you need to disconnect the headstay momentarily to slip the line under it. Loosen off (but not all the way!) the backstay/shrouds (whichever provides headstay tension on your boat), and pull the main clevis pin at the bottom of the turnbuckle. Support the mast with the jib halyard and spinnaker halyard while (before!!) doing this. There is no need to remove the drum/sheave. Just loosen the hex-head bolt that secures the lower half of the drum, slip it down about 1/2" or so, put the line into the jaws of the sheave, and raise the drum half up and retighten. Adjust the gap between the drum halves to about 1/16" and make sure the drum rotates without binding before final tightening. Make sure the opening in the non-rotating (lower) half allows the line to feed without rubbing on the edges. It's really a simple job -- harder to describe than to do. Depending on the size of your lower forestay turnbuckle, you might need to be careful that the furling extrusions don't slip off and go in the drink while the headstay is disconnected. If you loosen the shrouds, you will have to re-tune the mast when you are done. Good luck.
P.S. on Hood furler
I forgot to say that the largest Hood continuous line furler, the LD810, sounds way undersized for a 42' foot boat. You might be better off upgrading to a proper size of single line furler, such as a Harken, Profurl, etc. That way you would get decent reefing capability as well as the furling ability. I'd do that even on my 30' boat, if funds permitted. Bob.
I forgot to say that the largest Hood continuous line furler, the LD810, sounds way undersized for a 42' foot boat. You might be better off upgrading to a proper size of single line furler, such as a Harken, Profurl, etc. That way you would get decent reefing capability as well as the furling ability. I'd do that even on my 30' boat, if funds permitted. Bob.
Hood double line furler splice
George, I replaced that line twice. Each time I just had a rigger come out to the boat and do the "continuous line" splice right on the boat. Minimal cost and only takes an hour or so for the rigger. You don't need to mess with any rigging at all. As an aside, I hate that Hood system due to its inability to hold a reef in the genoa. I replaced mine with a Harken system, putting the drum above the deck. That allowed me to close off the huge hole where the drum was located. (Every time I'd sail or motor to weather such that we took green water over the bow, the anchor locker would fill with water and further drive down the bow into the swells).
George, I replaced that line twice. Each time I just had a rigger come out to the boat and do the "continuous line" splice right on the boat. Minimal cost and only takes an hour or so for the rigger. You don't need to mess with any rigging at all. As an aside, I hate that Hood system due to its inability to hold a reef in the genoa. I replaced mine with a Harken system, putting the drum above the deck. That allowed me to close off the huge hole where the drum was located. (Every time I'd sail or motor to weather such that we took green water over the bow, the anchor locker would fill with water and further drive down the bow into the swells).
Furling?
This might be a good time to replace with the single line system or better still throw the Hood system out and go with a Harken. I unfortunately went with the Hood upgrade and regret it every time I reef my sail or have to replace a part. Bob - it is the 900 series on the 42. Still not adequate.
This might be a good time to replace with the single line system or better still throw the Hood system out and go with a Harken. I unfortunately went with the Hood upgrade and regret it every time I reef my sail or have to replace a part. Bob - it is the 900 series on the 42. Still not adequate.
I got a 'quick' reference' chart from Samson....
cordage. It describes in detail many splices including the continuous splice and CLOSELY following the instructions on a CALM day, I have twice made the splice on the boat. Thread the new line through the furler and go to it. I 'practiced' once at home with a test line and when I felt relatively comfortable, I went to the boat. The last part where it 'all comes together' was the trickiest but it worked. It does take time though because you're working slowly, checking things twice, etc. but I suppose you do get some satisfaction, especially when it turns out OK. I also have the 810 and the first time I replaced the line discovered that the dealer??? installed the unit with undersized line (3/8) instead of the 7/16. As a result, when reefed, it would slip and unfurl in windy conditions. After I resized, it was significantly better but I also had to resize the blocks in the anchor well as they were also too small.
cordage. It describes in detail many splices including the continuous splice and CLOSELY following the instructions on a CALM day, I have twice made the splice on the boat. Thread the new line through the furler and go to it. I 'practiced' once at home with a test line and when I felt relatively comfortable, I went to the boat. The last part where it 'all comes together' was the trickiest but it worked. It does take time though because you're working slowly, checking things twice, etc. but I suppose you do get some satisfaction, especially when it turns out OK. I also have the 810 and the first time I replaced the line discovered that the dealer??? installed the unit with undersized line (3/8) instead of the 7/16. As a result, when reefed, it would slip and unfurl in windy conditions. After I resized, it was significantly better but I also had to resize the blocks in the anchor well as they were also too small.
way hard
I do all my own splicing, both with three-strand and double braid, EXCEPT for the continuous-line splice. The incidence of failure is so high on that splice because of its inherent weakness that it pays to have a rigger do it for you. And even there, the first two continuous splices I had done "professionally" failed in short order, but the third guy I had try it gave me a line that's held up for a good eighteen months now. If you find a rigger that can do that splice, keep him.
I do all my own splicing, both with three-strand and double braid, EXCEPT for the continuous-line splice. The incidence of failure is so high on that splice because of its inherent weakness that it pays to have a rigger do it for you. And even there, the first two continuous splices I had done "professionally" failed in short order, but the third guy I had try it gave me a line that's held up for a good eighteen months now. If you find a rigger that can do that splice, keep him.
It will eventually slip
Three years ago I talked to a Hood rep about the slippage I ws getting with the continuous loop furler I had on my Legend 37. The Hood rep told me that the product is no longer marketed as a "reefing furler", but only as a "furler". The slippage problem is due to the line on the furler. Over time, the line will stretch, causing the diameter of the line to decrease. Also, over time the line gets smoother. As the line gets older, the teeth on the drum begin to lose the grip on the line and, thus, the line slips over the drum under load. By design, the single line reefing furler eliminates this problem. Two things can be done to reduce (but not eliminate) slippage on the continuous loop furler. 1) By replacing the line with a new line with the correct diameter. But eventually this will begin slipping as noted above. 2) When adjusting the amount of sail you want to have out, hold BOTH sides of the loop with tension. When you get to the desired amout of sail, pull BOTH sides of the loop to tighten the grip around the drum and tie off BOTH sides of the line. This will help only temporarily. I opted for the single line reefing furler and have been pleased with its performance over the last four seasons. Good luck in your choice.
Three years ago I talked to a Hood rep about the slippage I ws getting with the continuous loop furler I had on my Legend 37. The Hood rep told me that the product is no longer marketed as a "reefing furler", but only as a "furler". The slippage problem is due to the line on the furler. Over time, the line will stretch, causing the diameter of the line to decrease. Also, over time the line gets smoother. As the line gets older, the teeth on the drum begin to lose the grip on the line and, thus, the line slips over the drum under load. By design, the single line reefing furler eliminates this problem. Two things can be done to reduce (but not eliminate) slippage on the continuous loop furler. 1) By replacing the line with a new line with the correct diameter. But eventually this will begin slipping as noted above. 2) When adjusting the amount of sail you want to have out, hold BOTH sides of the loop with tension. When you get to the desired amout of sail, pull BOTH sides of the loop to tighten the grip around the drum and tie off BOTH sides of the line. This will help only temporarily. I opted for the single line reefing furler and have been pleased with its performance over the last four seasons. Good luck in your choice.
another option
Hood sells a single-line upgrade kit for the CL (continuos line) furlers for about 1/4 of the cost of a new furler. You can get the info at www.pompanette.com. Look under "Tech tips".
Hood sells a single-line upgrade kit for the CL (continuos line) furlers for about 1/4 of the cost of a new furler. You can get the info at www.pompanette.com. Look under "Tech tips".
My Hood 810 will hold a reef
I have a continuous loop Hood 810 furler on my H28.5. It will hold a reef as long as the loop is cleated such that BOTH lines are secure. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
I have a continuous loop Hood 810 furler on my H28.5. It will hold a reef as long as the loop is cleated such that BOTH lines are secure. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
Continuous loop on a 35.5
I spliced the loop you are referring to according to the instructions in the manual and, while it didn't look professional, it has held with no problem. The Hood instructions were clear and simple. Try it.
I spliced the loop you are referring to according to the instructions in the manual and, while it didn't look professional, it has held with no problem. The Hood instructions were clear and simple. Try it.
Hood Roller Furler
I have a single line Hood roller furler on my Passage 42 that didn't work worth a damn. I found that the "hockey puck" on the inside, attached to the turn buckle, kept breaking - allowing the inner tube on the furler to rub the stay. I machined a plate which slips over the stay and has the bottommost tube confined, so that the whole mechanism is kept centered and sits flat on this plate. I found that this setup works extremely well and was able to furl my gib in 25 knots of wind with no problem. If anyone is interested in this fix, email me at koryn@webtv.net.
I have a single line Hood roller furler on my Passage 42 that didn't work worth a damn. I found that the "hockey puck" on the inside, attached to the turn buckle, kept breaking - allowing the inner tube on the furler to rub the stay. I machined a plate which slips over the stay and has the bottommost tube confined, so that the whole mechanism is kept centered and sits flat on this plate. I found that this setup works extremely well and was able to furl my gib in 25 knots of wind with no problem. If anyone is interested in this fix, email me at koryn@webtv.net.
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