Has anyone with the Hood 810 LD furler upgraded it with Hood 800 SL upgrade package? If so, would like to hear how well this may, or may not, have worked out. Is it worth the cost or does it make sense just to buy a whole new furling unit? Is this an upgrade that can be done yourself or do you need a pro? If you did it yourself, would like to hear how you did it and what tips you may want to pass on. Thanks.
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LD to SL furler - no problem
When I bought my boat it had a Hood LD furler and the PO also threw in a complete forestay, extrusion and SL furling drum from a different boat (forestay was a bit shorter that the C27). He said he just never got around to changing out the furling drum. I decided to try swapping out the drums one day and the project turned out not to be so bad. First, you'll need to remove the headsail. I lowered mine, and tied the swivel to the drum to allow the drum to be lifted with the jib halyard. Give the jib halyard a good tug, this should raise the whole drum and extrusion assembly a few inches to give you a little working room under the drum. Then, under the drum, disconnect the shackle that holds the drum to the deck. Once you disconnect this shackle you can again tug on the jib halyard. This should raise the drum assembly a few more inches allowing you enough working space to disconnect the forestay. Before disconnecting the forestay, obviously you’ll need to secure the mast. If you have an adjustable backstay, ease the backstay and loosen the backstay turnbuckle. Secure the mast to the foredeck with a temporary forestay. I used a spare halyard and ran it from the mast top to an anchor roller on the bow sprit and pulled it until the forestay slacked then cleated the line. Under the drum, remove the clevis that holds the forestay to the deck and raise the drum and forestay, and lay it out of the way. To separate the drum from the extrusion you have to remove the tack socket (items 1 and 2 on the illustrated parts catalog, see link below). One half of the tack socket has a nylon screw. Remove this screw, slide out the tack socket half and you should be able to wiggle out the other half. I am pretty sure you will also need to remove the centering clamp assembly (item 18 in the IPC). This keeps the forestay centered within the drum. Slide the drum down over the forestay turnbuckle and install the new drum and basically reverse the instructions to install. I’m sure that if you buy the upgrade, Hood will provide detailed instructions. I managed to complete the job without any instructions so I’d say it’s not too difficult a job but allow at least the better part of a day to complete it. A few notes: Be careful working under the drum. If the drum slips down while your fingers are under it surely it will smart at the very least if not separate a finger completely. Also, I completed this job with the boat in the water, docked just off the ICW. If your mast is properly secured I don’t think you’ll need absolute calm conditions to work this. The line used for the SL furlers needs to be de-cored (core removed). For the 800SL, Hood recommends 80’ of 3/8” double braid poly with the first 1/3 going into the drum de-decored. The core is easily removed from brand new line. Lastly, carefully inspect the lower extrusion section where it attaches to the drum. When I removed my drum, this section of extrusion was cracked almost completely around the circumference of the extrusion (I posted pictures of this a few months ago). Since I had a whole forestay worth of extra extrusions I just removed and replaced the lower extrusion. I hope this helps you with your project. I am in no way a technical expert on Hood furlers but this is, to the best of my recollection, is a pretty accurate “how-to”. Good luck and email me if you have any questions:gjferg@iname.com
When I bought my boat it had a Hood LD furler and the PO also threw in a complete forestay, extrusion and SL furling drum from a different boat (forestay was a bit shorter that the C27). He said he just never got around to changing out the furling drum. I decided to try swapping out the drums one day and the project turned out not to be so bad. First, you'll need to remove the headsail. I lowered mine, and tied the swivel to the drum to allow the drum to be lifted with the jib halyard. Give the jib halyard a good tug, this should raise the whole drum and extrusion assembly a few inches to give you a little working room under the drum. Then, under the drum, disconnect the shackle that holds the drum to the deck. Once you disconnect this shackle you can again tug on the jib halyard. This should raise the drum assembly a few more inches allowing you enough working space to disconnect the forestay. Before disconnecting the forestay, obviously you’ll need to secure the mast. If you have an adjustable backstay, ease the backstay and loosen the backstay turnbuckle. Secure the mast to the foredeck with a temporary forestay. I used a spare halyard and ran it from the mast top to an anchor roller on the bow sprit and pulled it until the forestay slacked then cleated the line. Under the drum, remove the clevis that holds the forestay to the deck and raise the drum and forestay, and lay it out of the way. To separate the drum from the extrusion you have to remove the tack socket (items 1 and 2 on the illustrated parts catalog, see link below). One half of the tack socket has a nylon screw. Remove this screw, slide out the tack socket half and you should be able to wiggle out the other half. I am pretty sure you will also need to remove the centering clamp assembly (item 18 in the IPC). This keeps the forestay centered within the drum. Slide the drum down over the forestay turnbuckle and install the new drum and basically reverse the instructions to install. I’m sure that if you buy the upgrade, Hood will provide detailed instructions. I managed to complete the job without any instructions so I’d say it’s not too difficult a job but allow at least the better part of a day to complete it. A few notes: Be careful working under the drum. If the drum slips down while your fingers are under it surely it will smart at the very least if not separate a finger completely. Also, I completed this job with the boat in the water, docked just off the ICW. If your mast is properly secured I don’t think you’ll need absolute calm conditions to work this. The line used for the SL furlers needs to be de-cored (core removed). For the 800SL, Hood recommends 80’ of 3/8” double braid poly with the first 1/3 going into the drum de-decored. The core is easily removed from brand new line. Lastly, carefully inspect the lower extrusion section where it attaches to the drum. When I removed my drum, this section of extrusion was cracked almost completely around the circumference of the extrusion (I posted pictures of this a few months ago). Since I had a whole forestay worth of extra extrusions I just removed and replaced the lower extrusion. I hope this helps you with your project. I am in no way a technical expert on Hood furlers but this is, to the best of my recollection, is a pretty accurate “how-to”. Good luck and email me if you have any questions:gjferg@iname.com
Questions for gjferg re Hood SL change
Great description of how you made the change. I have the 810LD unit on my O35, and replacing it is on my list of things to do at some point. A couple of questions: 1 - Are you satisfied with the operation of the upgraded SL unit? Is it a definite improvement over the LD? 2 - What size boat do you have? I noticed in the 1999 Practical Sailor article recommending Hood's Sea Furl 5 on the site that you linked, that they didn't recommend the LD or SL units for medium to large size boats because of "important features" that they lacked. Not sure what to make of that comment - do you know? 3 - Since the upgrade equipment came with your boat, and knowing what you know now, would you have spent about $700 for the upgrade ($522 for the drum and $167 for the line)? Thanks for any more input you can provide. Ed Ryan
Great description of how you made the change. I have the 810LD unit on my O35, and replacing it is on my list of things to do at some point. A couple of questions: 1 - Are you satisfied with the operation of the upgraded SL unit? Is it a definite improvement over the LD? 2 - What size boat do you have? I noticed in the 1999 Practical Sailor article recommending Hood's Sea Furl 5 on the site that you linked, that they didn't recommend the LD or SL units for medium to large size boats because of "important features" that they lacked. Not sure what to make of that comment - do you know? 3 - Since the upgrade equipment came with your boat, and knowing what you know now, would you have spent about $700 for the upgrade ($522 for the drum and $167 for the line)? Thanks for any more input you can provide. Ed Ryan
Re: Questions for gjferg...
1. Yes, I am very satisfied with the SL unit however, this is not an entirely qualified answer. When I bought the boat it needed about two months of work in the boatyard before I was able to splash it. Once I stepped the mast I changed the furler drum so I never really used the LD. From what I've read though, the SL is a major improvement over the LD. 2. My boat is a C27 and while the SL system is very simple, I can't think of any important features it lacks. 3. Would I have spent the money? I would definately spend the $522 if the LD model was wearing out (I've heard the pawls on the LD wear out and the line easily slips). De-coring the line is way too easy to spend $167 on. Drop $40 on double braid and de-core it yourself...trust me. I found the link to the cracked extrusion I found when I removed the drum. The link is below. Good Luck! --Greg
1. Yes, I am very satisfied with the SL unit however, this is not an entirely qualified answer. When I bought the boat it needed about two months of work in the boatyard before I was able to splash it. Once I stepped the mast I changed the furler drum so I never really used the LD. From what I've read though, the SL is a major improvement over the LD. 2. My boat is a C27 and while the SL system is very simple, I can't think of any important features it lacks. 3. Would I have spent the money? I would definately spend the $522 if the LD model was wearing out (I've heard the pawls on the LD wear out and the line easily slips). De-coring the line is way too easy to spend $167 on. Drop $40 on double braid and de-core it yourself...trust me. I found the link to the cracked extrusion I found when I removed the drum. The link is below. Good Luck! --Greg
Ed, "important features" also a mystery to me
Ed, I didn't do a LD upgrade but I did install a Hood 707 SL on my CS27 last year. When researching furling systems I also saw a couple of articles which referred to "missing important features" when refering to some of the more competively priced brands. After looking closely at all of the major brands I couldn't figure out what would be missing from the Hood. Kevin
Ed, I didn't do a LD upgrade but I did install a Hood 707 SL on my CS27 last year. When researching furling systems I also saw a couple of articles which referred to "missing important features" when refering to some of the more competively priced brands. After looking closely at all of the major brands I couldn't figure out what would be missing from the Hood. Kevin
Not 100% Satisfied
We replaceed the LD system (junk) with the 810 SL upgrade. It was great to get rid of the LD which slipped (but only when you really needed it to work) with a true furling/reefing system, but I found that the line would bind on the 810. Maybe I had too much play in the drum because we just used the existing shackle to secure it, but the drum would bind when it took on line and I often had to go forward or take up and release line to free the line and get it to spool on or off. I guess for the price not bad, but I ran into an owner who said Hood was offering free upgrades to those who owned the LD system. I sure felt dumb, but I never checked it out to see if it was true.
We replaceed the LD system (junk) with the 810 SL upgrade. It was great to get rid of the LD which slipped (but only when you really needed it to work) with a true furling/reefing system, but I found that the line would bind on the 810. Maybe I had too much play in the drum because we just used the existing shackle to secure it, but the drum would bind when it took on line and I often had to go forward or take up and release line to free the line and get it to spool on or off. I guess for the price not bad, but I ran into an owner who said Hood was offering free upgrades to those who owned the LD system. I sure felt dumb, but I never checked it out to see if it was true.
decoring line
Just installed the SL upgrade and needing to decore the line.........can you give any direction or place I can look to find out "how to" thanks
Just installed the SL upgrade and needing to decore the line.........can you give any direction or place I can look to find out "how to" thanks
To decore or not to decore
I just installed the SL upgrade on my Cal 28 this year. I've only had the boat out 3 times so far but to this point I think it is a vast improvement over the line drive (of course part of this may involve new bearings in the new drum vs 16 year old bearings in the original). I believe the Hood site offers 3/8" line decored for some absurd price. Personally, I feel that this was quite a bit oversized at least for my genoa (approx 280 sq ft). In fact when I received the documentation for the new drum it recommended a range of line sizes from either 5/16-3/8 or 1/4-3/8" (I'd have to go back to check). In any case I decided 1/4" would be perfectly adequate for double braid (especially if it is not decored). By using the smaller diameter I found no need to decore the line so that it would still fit in the drum when unfurling the jib. I did have to decore the first 6" or so only so that I could tie a small enough knot in the end to hold it in the drum without rubbing against the drum cover. To decore simply pick a spot at which to pull the core out, bend the line completely at that point (so that the line coming into and leaving the bend are touching) and use a marlinspike or splicing tool to reach inside the exterior braid cover to pull at the core. I suppose if you were to decore an 80' piece of line you might need to do this 10' or so at a time. In my case since I was only decoring the first 6", after pulling out the 6", I pushed the cover back another 1", wrapped some self-bonding tape around the core, cut at the tape and worked the remaining core back into the cover. So far so good. Hope this helps. Also, Doug, I've found that the whole system is fairly sensitive to (a) having a good true lead from the drum to the first furling block so that the line furls evenly around the drum (b) the fixed part of the drum is held fairly tight to the tack of the boat so it does not rotate and (c) when unfurling the jib keep modest tension on the furling line so that it wraps around the drum fairly tight. Larry
I just installed the SL upgrade on my Cal 28 this year. I've only had the boat out 3 times so far but to this point I think it is a vast improvement over the line drive (of course part of this may involve new bearings in the new drum vs 16 year old bearings in the original). I believe the Hood site offers 3/8" line decored for some absurd price. Personally, I feel that this was quite a bit oversized at least for my genoa (approx 280 sq ft). In fact when I received the documentation for the new drum it recommended a range of line sizes from either 5/16-3/8 or 1/4-3/8" (I'd have to go back to check). In any case I decided 1/4" would be perfectly adequate for double braid (especially if it is not decored). By using the smaller diameter I found no need to decore the line so that it would still fit in the drum when unfurling the jib. I did have to decore the first 6" or so only so that I could tie a small enough knot in the end to hold it in the drum without rubbing against the drum cover. To decore simply pick a spot at which to pull the core out, bend the line completely at that point (so that the line coming into and leaving the bend are touching) and use a marlinspike or splicing tool to reach inside the exterior braid cover to pull at the core. I suppose if you were to decore an 80' piece of line you might need to do this 10' or so at a time. In my case since I was only decoring the first 6", after pulling out the 6", I pushed the cover back another 1", wrapped some self-bonding tape around the core, cut at the tape and worked the remaining core back into the cover. So far so good. Hope this helps. Also, Doug, I've found that the whole system is fairly sensitive to (a) having a good true lead from the drum to the first furling block so that the line furls evenly around the drum (b) the fixed part of the drum is held fairly tight to the tack of the boat so it does not rotate and (c) when unfurling the jib keep modest tension on the furling line so that it wraps around the drum fairly tight. Larry
Good discussion
I upgraded the drum on my C36 and was completely satisfied (915). It's essential to be able to reduce sail in a blow, and the upgrade was an economical solution to the SL slipping on the old drum. I'd recommend this option as a good solution. Best, Trevor
I upgraded the drum on my C36 and was completely satisfied (915). It's essential to be able to reduce sail in a blow, and the upgrade was an economical solution to the SL slipping on the old drum. I'd recommend this option as a good solution. Best, Trevor
HOOD LD furler
I bought an 88 Catalina 30 last year with a Hood 810 and considered an upgrade to a SL. However, the unit seemed OK, but the old line was in bad shape, and did not seem to be 'grabbing' the drum. Rather than spend the $700+ I installed a new drive line with a professional splice for about $100 I've sailed the boat often and it works fine for me. Ron B
I bought an 88 Catalina 30 last year with a Hood 810 and considered an upgrade to a SL. However, the unit seemed OK, but the old line was in bad shape, and did not seem to be 'grabbing' the drum. Rather than spend the $700+ I installed a new drive line with a professional splice for about $100 I've sailed the boat often and it works fine for me. Ron B
Splice the line yourself
I had have a Hood 810 DL on a 1990 Hunter 30. The line slipped in the palls because it was too small. The original manual is available online, and has good directions for the line splice. I replaced the line, spliced it myself. Also flushed the bearings and replaced the furling blocks. Made all the difference in the world, and saved $500 pluss $$$....
I had have a Hood 810 DL on a 1990 Hunter 30. The line slipped in the palls because it was too small. The original manual is available online, and has good directions for the line splice. I replaced the line, spliced it myself. Also flushed the bearings and replaced the furling blocks. Made all the difference in the world, and saved $500 pluss $$$....
For Dean
Could you give me a url for the online manual that contains the splicing instructions? Thanks. Warren
Could you give me a url for the online manual that contains the splicing instructions? Thanks. Warren
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