Honda outboard work

[drock10]

Hey guys I have to clean my carb I guess on my motor but I have never done it anyone know the process?? Or any good links that will help? it is a Honda 4 stroke 5hp motor I also need a oil change which I need help with lol. Anything info will help thanks guys

 

[anchorclanker]

At the very least you need a parts breakdown, best would be a service manual. Talking you through it will be hard without at least one of those.

 

[All U Get]

Honda has their service manuals online if you don't have one. It's pretty easy to find your model number and year to get the right book.
All U Get

 

[CaptDon01]

We've got a 5 HP Honda on out boat. The oil changing is a messy job. I've given up and just put the oil changing pan I use on our vehicles under the motor. I'm thinking of possibly sucking it out of the fill tube next time,(I use Mobil-1 30 SAE oil). After it's all drained, I spray the engine down with Simple Green and use a disposable brush to help clean it off. On the carb issue, I always use premium fuel, (Chevron or Shell), add gas stabilizer as-per directions, and a dose of Seafoam. I don't drain the carb after I use the engine, and I never have any starting or running issues,(will idle as long as you want it to). I've suggested to seveal folks that have poor starting, poor running engines is to try my "snake-oil" treatment before they start taking things apart, or adjusting things. I recommend a whole can of "Seafoam"(accept to substitutes), in a 3 gallon tank of fresh premium gas, and just let the engine run all afternoon. Works best if the boat is tied up at the dock, this way you can leave it in gear. Run it at a fast idle, and just let it run. The Seafoam not only cleans out the carb bowl and little passages, it also de-carbons the combustion chamber, and carbon build-up on the rings and valves. My feed-back is that it always corrected the problems. May not be everyones way of doing things, but it's worked for me, (and others), for years in not only my outboard, but with my gas powered lawn equipment, and my old Triumph's sports cars that would sit all winter long when we lived in the midwest.

Don

 

[dlewis812]

Won't idle

Have Honda 8hp 4stroke. Runs well but won't idle. Currently on a mooring away from home port about to do return trip. On another post suggested to adjust idle screw. Can this be done in neutral, again not at a slip where I can tie up secure. (and, don't want to mess up anything as I believe it's running well otherwise). Any other suggestions like seafoam above (if I can get some here).

(also, of course no manual on hand.. Believe I know where the idle screw is located but just in case any details would be great)

 

[CaptDon01]

Re: Won't idle

Your a good candidate for my "Snake Oil" treatment. Most auto parts stores, and some Walmarts carry Seafoam. It's in a tall white can, about $9. last time I bought some. Try it before you start tweeking stuff. I've turned my idle slower than the factory setting on my little 5 HP Honda after I gave it my "Snake Oil" treatment after I purchased the engine and it idles very nice, with no stalling.

If you going to return, get some good gas, and throw a can of Seafoam in the tank, a heavy dose won't hurt a thing, and let the engine run while your returning home, (I assume your sailing home?). Or, just let it run in neutral, just don't let it over rev with no load. Once the Seafoam mixture is in the carb, it continues to do it's magic. After it runs like new again, just keep using it on a maintenance basis. I have a 6 gallon tank, and I pour 1/2 can in the tank when I re-fill it as part of my on going preventive maintenance program.

Don

 

[anchorclanker]

To expound upon Capt Dons post...

Carburetors have several small jets and passageways that fuel and air are drawn through. The smaller the engine, the smaller the jets. The fuel we are getting today is so screwed up and so chemically altered, no one appears able to say just what exactly is in it that causes so much trouble. To simply call is gasoline is almost a joke. One thing we are learning, the alcohol content can fluctuate quite a bit, its not always 10%. If you can buy alcohol free gasoline, I would do so.

At any rate, this modern fuel is not very stable. Within about 6 months it begins breaking down. Along with normal gums and varnishes that will form, we also find formations of what appears to be crystalline compounds. It varies in color from orange or pink, to green or yellow, depending on region. And it will plug up the passageways if it forms.

The best real fix, is to keep using the engine and keep putting in fresh fuel. As bad as it is, the fuel does have a lot of cleaning agents, and as long as you keep running it it will stay clean. While not everyone wants to do it, draining the carb after use, or pulling off the fuel line and running it out of fuel, or both, is really a good idea.

In cases where the idle has gone wonky, or sputtery, running the motor at slow idle, rather than fast, will do the most good. There are two circuits in the carb, the idle circuit, and high speed. At idle, all fuel is coming into the engine through the smallest passages. These are the places that will plug up first. As idle speed increases, the throttle plate opening exposes larger passages, and fuel is drawn from those more than the smaller ones. As you open the throttle, you eventually begin drawing fuel through the main high speed jet and fuel no longer flows through the idle circuit. You could run it around all day long with seafoam or whatever miracle drugs youve added to your fuel, and its not going to do anything to the idle circuit unless its idling.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is fuel line decay. The chemicals in fuel today are so strong that in some locations people see fuel lines fall apart within a year. Again, it seems to depend on the local fuel recipe, other areas people dont see so much trouble. So dependent on fuel, you could see formations of deposits that will plug up your carb, and eat up your fuel lines in less than 12 months. Thankfully they havnt yet screwed up diesel to that point, but give them time. They are likely working overtime to figure that out for us.

 

[jfrench]

I like to add carb cleaner and fuel stabilizer to every tank of fuel. I don't have gum problems anymore. Not in the outboard, not in the generator or the lawn machines. Before you take parts off, spray some carb cleaner into the carb and air intake. Turn the mixture adjustment one turn each way (to clean the tip after the carb cleaner has worked on it) and run it for a while with carb cleaner in the fuel. That may fix your problem without using a wrench. If it doesn't, you can still take things apart. Do the above after replacing the gas in your tank with fresh.

 

[slowtype]

I just had to clean the carb on my Honda 7.5. No "snake oil" would have solved this problem. The carb its self wasn't all that dirty. But there were pieces of what I suspect to be fuel hose wedged in the jet. My engine would start, but would not idle.

Removed the carb and left the engine on the boat. Disassembly, cleaning and reassembly only took about an hour. I replaced all the fuel hoses because I believe they were not compatible with ethanol infused fuel. I also installed an additional fuel filter bringing the count to 2.

To do a simple cleaning:
-Remove the carb
-Remove the bowl
-Remove the float switch
-Remove the jet
-Clean the jet, use a needle or whatever tools you have on hand to clean out the passage. I have very small hand drill bits.
-Spray carb cleaner through every passage
-Reassemble

Notes:
Don't touch the mixture screw unless you want to set the mixture later
Use nice screwdrivers
Make sure everything is real clean
Don't loose any parts

 

[jfrench]

<<Removed the carb and left the engine on the boat.>>

Caution! Removing parts from an outboard mounted to a floating boat recommended only for those capable of retrieving outboard parts or tools from muddy bottoms under six feet of water.

 

[drock10]

thanks for all the info u guys!!! my motor runs fine at idle but blogs out and dies when in gear so maybe i will try that "snake oil" trick first after i change the oil.. Also what do u think should i use? my marinas ethanol free gas or supreme gas from like chevron or shell??

 

[Chris Patterson]

Go with the ethanol free. And the Sea Foam is a tried and proven product, some of us "old timers" have been using it for years. But, like said earlier, gas in any form is poor grade now, and unless it's a dragster, few motors like alcohol.
Alcohol should be drank, not burned...

 

[jfrench]

The two issues with ethanol are:

1. Ethanol is alcohol. It causes any water in the fuel to combine with the fuel. If it's only a little water, that's good -it get the water out of the system where it could rust things. If it's too much water, it causes the fuel to be harder to burn. That can result in hard starting and other engine operation problems.

2. Alcohol can attack some rubber and synthetic parts, like foam carb floats and fuel lines. If a carb float starts to dissolve, the engine will run too rich or flood out. Rubber parts dissolving can cause gunk and particles in the fuel. These can stop up filters, clog jets, etc.


Shouldn't be any need for high-test gas, unless your manual specifies it. High-test is just gas with additives to make it withstand higher pressure (without detonating) and is for use in engines with high compression ratios. If your engine doesn't need it, buy regular. More regular is sold at gas stations, so it doesn't sit in their underground tank for as many weeks. It's more likely to be "fresher" when you buy it. The biggest issue with auto gas is that is designed to be manufactured cheaply, so they use cheap additives that require agitation to remain in solution. Cars move, so agitation is not much of a problem, But, when gas sits for too long, like in your mower or outboard over the winter, the additives settle out and allow "gum" to form in the fuel. It makes sense to use fuel stabilizer regularly, and carb cleaner additives in at least a few tankfuls every season to avoid fuel gum in your system.

 

[slowtype]

<<Removed the carb and left the engine on the boat.>>

Caution! Removing parts from an outboard mounted to a floating boat, recommended only for those capable of retrieving outboard parts or tools, from muddy bottoms under six feet of water.

Yes bad advice by me. Risky behavior. Try to perform work on land when possible.

 

[Chris Patterson]

Another carb trick. A torch tip cleaner has several small round file type bits in it, that will generally pass through most small orifices. The "file" tips on them cut when you pull it, as apposed to pushing like a normal file. However, you should not be doing any filing anyway, not one iota, as you will change the flow perimeters of the hole you are cleaning out. Just use a too small of a bit in the pack to poke out crud. This is a very cheap device, sold at welding supply stores everywhere. I've used them countless times to clean out very small holes.