I want to purchase a generator to recharge batteries vs use of the engine. Last season, my first with the boat, I had to use the diesel a lot. The boat is on a mooring all summer long with little or no access to shorepower. I want to eliminate the diesel asthe primary sourse for recharging the batteries. I have been told that the Honda EU 1000 or EU 2000 is excellent solution for this application. However, I get a lot of conflicting advice. Since I am very weak in my knowledge of electrical systems, I am confused as to whether this is a good solution and, if so, what I need. 1. Is the 1000 W sufficient or is the 2000 W recommended? 2. Is it possible to plug the generator directly into the receptrical for connecting to show-power or do I have to connect directly to the batteries? 3. If I can connect directly to the receptrical, what special wiring do I need? 4. Are there any precautions I have to take to avoid damaging the battery charger or inverter? 5. A reliable sourse said that some modification has to be made to the grounding system of the Honda but was not able to specify. Isthere anything special anyone knows of other than making sure that the generator is gounded. 6. Is there any other information I should be seeking before purchasing this equipment. If anyone can help me find the correct solution to my problem, I would appreciate it. If you are able, I request that you be as technical aspossible. Thank you. You can reply to me at pfarrlaw@aol.com
Honda Generator
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I think there is a lot of info in the archives
But to answer part of your question, I used a Honda 1000W generator with a 20 amp statpower charger to charge my bank of batteries on my 31' Hunter. I had a total of 400 AH battery capacity. Never had a problem. If I had it to do all over again though I would probably go with a larger capacity charger so that I would run the generator a little less. I think the problem with using a generator is that the neutral is "floating" (not actually grounded to earth ground) and this causes a polarity problem with the charging system - there is a lot of info on this in the archives. I connected directly from the generator output to the shorepower receptacle.
But to answer part of your question, I used a Honda 1000W generator with a 20 amp statpower charger to charge my bank of batteries on my 31' Hunter. I had a total of 400 AH battery capacity. Never had a problem. If I had it to do all over again though I would probably go with a larger capacity charger so that I would run the generator a little less. I think the problem with using a generator is that the neutral is "floating" (not actually grounded to earth ground) and this causes a polarity problem with the charging system - there is a lot of info on this in the archives. I connected directly from the generator output to the shorepower receptacle.
Forgot to add
I use a EU2000 Honda on my 2008 36' Hunter and have not had a problem charging the batteries (factory charger).
I use a EU2000 Honda on my 2008 36' Hunter and have not had a problem charging the batteries (factory charger).
No shore power - small gen set.
1. Other than charging, do you wish to have power available for any other loads? Keep in mind this gen set is insufficient to operate med to large microwaves and hair dryers. 1kw at 120 v = 8.3 amps: 2kw = 16.6 amps etc. If you have a 10 amp charger for example, it will be unable to operate at it's rated capacity and thus, a charging cycle will take longer than you might expect. A 2kw unit will provide double the power and load holding capability. 2. Connect to the shore power receptacle. You will need a properly rated twist lock plug to fit your boat, 20 or 30 amp, 120 v. This will enable you to use the onboard charger or inverter if you have one. Do not connect directly to the batteries, they are D.C., shore power is A.C.. 3 & 5. No special wiring should be needed except it will be really nice if you can find a grounding terminal from the Honda literature and rum a ground wire from the gen set to the groung lug on the twist lock plug. 4. The generator should be at least as large as the single largest load you expect to handle. You can then rotate other loads on and off as needed. 6. Other considerations: this gen set requires gas be kept aboard and you need to be constantly mindful of Carbon Monoxide getting into the bilge or cabin from where ever you may operate it. Sensors and adequate ventilation are very necessary. If you are a weekend sailor, have you considered a that a solar panel can continue to charge while you are aboard and every day all week? Obviously, it will not provide auxillary A.C. power, except via an inverter and the batteries you are trying to keep charged.
1. Other than charging, do you wish to have power available for any other loads? Keep in mind this gen set is insufficient to operate med to large microwaves and hair dryers. 1kw at 120 v = 8.3 amps: 2kw = 16.6 amps etc. If you have a 10 amp charger for example, it will be unable to operate at it's rated capacity and thus, a charging cycle will take longer than you might expect. A 2kw unit will provide double the power and load holding capability. 2. Connect to the shore power receptacle. You will need a properly rated twist lock plug to fit your boat, 20 or 30 amp, 120 v. This will enable you to use the onboard charger or inverter if you have one. Do not connect directly to the batteries, they are D.C., shore power is A.C.. 3 & 5. No special wiring should be needed except it will be really nice if you can find a grounding terminal from the Honda literature and rum a ground wire from the gen set to the groung lug on the twist lock plug. 4. The generator should be at least as large as the single largest load you expect to handle. You can then rotate other loads on and off as needed. 6. Other considerations: this gen set requires gas be kept aboard and you need to be constantly mindful of Carbon Monoxide getting into the bilge or cabin from where ever you may operate it. Sensors and adequate ventilation are very necessary. If you are a weekend sailor, have you considered a that a solar panel can continue to charge while you are aboard and every day all week? Obviously, it will not provide auxillary A.C. power, except via an inverter and the batteries you are trying to keep charged.
Cruising with the Honda.
Funny you should post this while I was sitting here researching solar panels. For a moored boat I think that is step number one, costs less than $200. to always find your boat ready to go. I left Lake Erie on my H37C last year with my Honda 2000. I opted for the larger unit because I want to be able to run my microwave and the first mate's curling iron and hair dryer. It will even run my 12K btu A/C if nothing else is running. I did not need it much for normal battery use because we motored so much. But for the longer anchorages it was great. I stay cognizant of others at anchor, not too close and no late running, etc. The connector to shorepower is a normal three prong to a male 30amp. Mine is twelve inches long and purchased. But you could make one. Then you plug your regular shorepower cable into that. Jeff, he can attach it to the batteries as it does have a twelve volt, 8 amp output. There should be no special precautions. My shorepower goes into a 2000 watt Heart Inverter. The Honda is supplying a lot less current(17a) than the 30 amps from the shore connection. I never considered the ground. I set mine on the anchor locker because I have a shorepower connector in there. I am very cautious about CO and never have hatches open. My old boat does not have a swim platform. That would be the spot if you have it. New H33 or old one?
Funny you should post this while I was sitting here researching solar panels. For a moored boat I think that is step number one, costs less than $200. to always find your boat ready to go. I left Lake Erie on my H37C last year with my Honda 2000. I opted for the larger unit because I want to be able to run my microwave and the first mate's curling iron and hair dryer. It will even run my 12K btu A/C if nothing else is running. I did not need it much for normal battery use because we motored so much. But for the longer anchorages it was great. I stay cognizant of others at anchor, not too close and no late running, etc. The connector to shorepower is a normal three prong to a male 30amp. Mine is twelve inches long and purchased. But you could make one. Then you plug your regular shorepower cable into that. Jeff, he can attach it to the batteries as it does have a twelve volt, 8 amp output. There should be no special precautions. My shorepower goes into a 2000 watt Heart Inverter. The Honda is supplying a lot less current(17a) than the 30 amps from the shore connection. I never considered the ground. I set mine on the anchor locker because I have a shorepower connector in there. I am very cautious about CO and never have hatches open. My old boat does not have a swim platform. That would be the spot if you have it. New H33 or old one?
honda gen
Look at the Honda outboards, 12 amp service output, quiet as can be. Great solution! run all night on a gal of gas. Only way to go..
Look at the Honda outboards, 12 amp service output, quiet as can be. Great solution! run all night on a gal of gas. Only way to go..
I'd like to 2nd Ed's advice and re-enforce the use of solar panels and preparing
Take all your AC units wattage (each unit will state such somewhere on its label) and make a list of them. Combine all that you would reasonably expect to run at the same time - microwave+AC fan+battery charger or blender+AC air conditioner+battery charger and see what the totals would be. If they are anything less than 800-900, the EU1000 should work; if 900-1800 the EU2000 would be the right unit. Remember, we're talking AC here not DC. All your DC loads should be handled by your batteries with your charger acting as booster; just take the AC load wattage off your charger label.
Take all your AC units wattage (each unit will state such somewhere on its label) and make a list of them. Combine all that you would reasonably expect to run at the same time - microwave+AC fan+battery charger or blender+AC air conditioner+battery charger and see what the totals would be. If they are anything less than 800-900, the EU1000 should work; if 900-1800 the EU2000 would be the right unit. Remember, we're talking AC here not DC. All your DC loads should be handled by your batteries with your charger acting as booster; just take the AC load wattage off your charger label.
Go with the EU2000
We just spent 5 months living aboard “Ninkasi” while attached to a mooring ball at the Southpoint Anchorage in Stuart FL. When we arrived in November we were using the diesel engine to charge the batteries. It didn’t take long to realize this wasn’t going to work. The experienced cruisers there had lots of varying opinions on the best charging system for maintaining life “off the grid” but they all highly recommended the Honda EU2000. We purchased one at a very good price delivered from Mayberrys (see link). I assembled a power cord from components, a length of 12/3 SO rubber covered cord, a 125V/30A twist lock female connector and a 125V/20 male plug, purchased at the local Home Depot. This power cord allows me to connect the generator output directly to my shore power connector. We made no other wiring changes and this setup has worked great. We ran the generator and our Xantrex Truecharge 40+ charger every other day to keep our house batteries (golf cart) up plus allow the Admiral to watch some TV. What we learned: 1. Locating the generator on the swim platform worked best for exhaust dispersion and although pretty quiet there was less noise. Our neighbors said they never heard the generator unless the wind was in their direction and even then it was only a purring sound and not objectionable. 2. Our circa 1988 charger was not up to the job and was replaced with a new Xantrex unit. This cut charging time in half.
We just spent 5 months living aboard “Ninkasi” while attached to a mooring ball at the Southpoint Anchorage in Stuart FL. When we arrived in November we were using the diesel engine to charge the batteries. It didn’t take long to realize this wasn’t going to work. The experienced cruisers there had lots of varying opinions on the best charging system for maintaining life “off the grid” but they all highly recommended the Honda EU2000. We purchased one at a very good price delivered from Mayberrys (see link). I assembled a power cord from components, a length of 12/3 SO rubber covered cord, a 125V/30A twist lock female connector and a 125V/20 male plug, purchased at the local Home Depot. This power cord allows me to connect the generator output directly to my shore power connector. We made no other wiring changes and this setup has worked great. We ran the generator and our Xantrex Truecharge 40+ charger every other day to keep our house batteries (golf cart) up plus allow the Admiral to watch some TV. What we learned: 1. Locating the generator on the swim platform worked best for exhaust dispersion and although pretty quiet there was less noise. Our neighbors said they never heard the generator unless the wind was in their direction and even then it was only a purring sound and not objectionable. 2. Our circa 1988 charger was not up to the job and was replaced with a new Xantrex unit. This cut charging time in half.
Just dropped mine off on my H33
I had done all of this research as well and concluded an EU2000 was the best choice for my 2004-33 and my (occasional) power needs. I too noticed that over the years about half of the hours I accumulated running my diesel was just to charge batteries. The EU2000 fits neatly into the cockpit locker. It will be interesting to see how much my engine use drops off vs. using the EU2000 this year. I bought mine as a demo model off of the web at EBay for $865 plus shipping. Cycle128 was the dealer and everything was on the level. They still have multiple units for sale. I ordered on Tuesday and had it by Friday. Andy
I had done all of this research as well and concluded an EU2000 was the best choice for my 2004-33 and my (occasional) power needs. I too noticed that over the years about half of the hours I accumulated running my diesel was just to charge batteries. The EU2000 fits neatly into the cockpit locker. It will be interesting to see how much my engine use drops off vs. using the EU2000 this year. I bought mine as a demo model off of the web at EBay for $865 plus shipping. Cycle128 was the dealer and everything was on the level. They still have multiple units for sale. I ordered on Tuesday and had it by Friday. Andy
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