Hi...new to the forum....I've got a newer 5hp Honda longshaft that insists on bending and breaking shear pins...I've replaced with aftermarket as well as Factory pins...I am careful when putting it in gear with low rpm's etc. The pin goes through the shaft easily with a little play....the prop pin seat shows very little wear...I'm hoping I don't need to replace the shaft..Anybody ever have this problem? Thanks, Fred "Doc" Suess
Honda 5hp shear pin issues
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Were the factory pins brass or silver in color? I think Honda had an issue a while back. The silver ones from Honda seemed to be stronger.
Mike..thanks for the response...the aftermarket ones were silicon bronze (I think) whereas the Honda replacements were stainless steel. I have checked the stainless one and it is slightly distorted. A bronze one distorted radically and I have broken two others...
My mariner 3.5 started this silly business too. I examined the slot in the prop where the pin fits and it had opened up with rounded edges. This meant the motor's torque was being carried towards the end of the shear pin so it bent into an elongate 'N' shape. It then soon failed through bending rather than shear.
I drilled the hole in the shaft a little larger and made a quantity of shear pins by turning down some ordinary brass rod to suit. These are now stuck inside the cowling with adhesive tape.
Problem is I have no idea whether the pin will shear or the plastic prop will break.
Anyway I have never broken a pin this last 5 years so I don't care!
I drilled the hole in the shaft a little larger and made a quantity of shear pins by turning down some ordinary brass rod to suit. These are now stuck inside the cowling with adhesive tape.
Problem is I have no idea whether the pin will shear or the plastic prop will break.
Anyway I have never broken a pin this last 5 years so I don't care!
I had a similar issue with my 3.5hp Nissan with a plastic prop. I was consistantly shearing the factory pins and I found it was made worse by shifting into gear above an idle. Even shifting at an idle they still had short life. I finally started using the steel pins for an optional metal prop instead of the aluminum or silicon bronze for the plastic prop. Problem gone. Never broke anything else either.
Your mileage may vary.....
Your mileage may vary.....
Same As Rich...
I have the same engine as Rich and had the same problem with the brass shear pins made worse by all the floating kelp in the island that I sometimes miss avoiding. The island motor guy has a bunch he made from stainless steel. I got several. They will still shear, but it takes a lot. You might try making your own from stainless stock or doing a modification that Donald suggests. BTW, when I sheared my last one, the shop was out of replacements, He gave me a Honda shearpin to use if I had to. It was a lot smaller in diameter, so I suspect it shears with less force than the Tohatsu.
I have the same engine as Rich and had the same problem with the brass shear pins made worse by all the floating kelp in the island that I sometimes miss avoiding. The island motor guy has a bunch he made from stainless steel. I got several. They will still shear, but it takes a lot. You might try making your own from stainless stock or doing a modification that Donald suggests. BTW, when I sheared my last one, the shop was out of replacements, He gave me a Honda shearpin to use if I had to. It was a lot smaller in diameter, so I suspect it shears with less force than the Tohatsu.
Also same as Rich and Rick
I now try to avoid shifting and always carry spares and a pair of pliers in the dinghy. It doesn't take that long to change out the pin and I'd rather the brass pin sheared than the stainless pin not shear and risk some damage to the drive.
Thanks for all of your input, gentlemen...going through my repair manual which I recently acquired, I noticed that grease is called for in the shear pin hole going through the shaft...I will apply some (grease) and see if that makes any difference....The pin is easy to change but I am getting better at maneuvering under sail alone. God, I love sailing!
And Another Thing!
I use a 2" long cotter pin (the one which holds the prop from falling off).
This means I have two long ends protruding from the prop spinner. I only bend them apart to 45° so I do not need pliers to straighten them and get the pin out.
It looks ugly and looks as if it could cause damage - but then the prop would cause much more damage anyway.
The gentle bend means the cotter is reusable and my fingers are strong enough so there is no need to carry pliers in the tender.
I use a 2" long cotter pin (the one which holds the prop from falling off).
This means I have two long ends protruding from the prop spinner. I only bend them apart to 45° so I do not need pliers to straighten them and get the pin out.
It looks ugly and looks as if it could cause damage - but then the prop would cause much more damage anyway.
The gentle bend means the cotter is reusable and my fingers are strong enough so there is no need to carry pliers in the tender.
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