Does anyone have experience with building their own tethers? I purchased a 25ft jackline that I plan to run down the middle of the boat and already have a PFD with a built in harness. Rather than invest in a tether (approx $40 - $70) I thought it would be (more) cost effective to use a regular halyard or other line type that will sustain some stretch and shock load. I will plan on adding a bungee cord in the middle to retract the line. Any safety/practical recommendations? Will this work?
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Just buy one
Tony, It isn't really the cost of the webbing that makes teathers expensive, it is the quality snap shackles that are put on the end. You don't really want to trust your safety to crappy hardware... so by the time you purchase the hardware etc you are better off just buying one. Reminds me of the old joke about the skin diver who buys the discount shark cage. Just go buy a good quality teather and be safe.
Tony, It isn't really the cost of the webbing that makes teathers expensive, it is the quality snap shackles that are put on the end. You don't really want to trust your safety to crappy hardware... so by the time you purchase the hardware etc you are better off just buying one. Reminds me of the old joke about the skin diver who buys the discount shark cage. Just go buy a good quality teather and be safe.
Tethers
Tony, Shop bought tethers are usually 2 metres (6.5') long and are designed to break the fall of a 100 Kg ( 18 US Stone) man falling through 2 metres(6.5'). They normally have a clip on each end which will NOT self open under any circumstances - unlike conventional snap hooks. They can also be opened one handed. Often there are two lines, one short and the other long and these are so you can clip on, then move about the deck and clip on again BEFORE un-clipping from the first position. There is much technology involved such as different colour stitching so it is visible should it get frayed and all the result of bitter, often fatal experience. It is quite possible to make ones' own and I sailed for years with an old man who always carried a length of rope in his pocket which he tied to form a harness and tether whenever he needed it. Fortunately (for us) he eventually died in his bed. There are many sad stories of lives being lost due to failed harnesses, tethers and clips. We would not like you to be the cause of yet another.
Tony, Shop bought tethers are usually 2 metres (6.5') long and are designed to break the fall of a 100 Kg ( 18 US Stone) man falling through 2 metres(6.5'). They normally have a clip on each end which will NOT self open under any circumstances - unlike conventional snap hooks. They can also be opened one handed. Often there are two lines, one short and the other long and these are so you can clip on, then move about the deck and clip on again BEFORE un-clipping from the first position. There is much technology involved such as different colour stitching so it is visible should it get frayed and all the result of bitter, often fatal experience. It is quite possible to make ones' own and I sailed for years with an old man who always carried a length of rope in his pocket which he tied to form a harness and tether whenever he needed it. Fortunately (for us) he eventually died in his bed. There are many sad stories of lives being lost due to failed harnesses, tethers and clips. We would not like you to be the cause of yet another.
safty first
Your teather is as important as your harness. You must have a quick release under load clip on your harness, in worst case if you had to get out quick you can, if you tied youself to the boat you may not get out. I wore my my harness tonight, blowing about 25 knots in narragansette bay, great sail, and I was safe
Your teather is as important as your harness. You must have a quick release under load clip on your harness, in worst case if you had to get out quick you can, if you tied youself to the boat you may not get out. I wore my my harness tonight, blowing about 25 knots in narragansette bay, great sail, and I was safe
tethers
many safety supplues carry tethers, most are cheaper than anything I've ever seen from nautical supplies They generally have two styles, the 'bungie' type that are designed to keep stresses on the person to a minimum, they work by internal breakage, the outside jacket is strong enough to hold the rated capacity, but the internals are weak fibers designed to break and slow down the fall so there's no backbreaking jerk when you hit the end of the strap, these normally have a crumplued outer jacket held in place with some stiching the others are just ropes, designed (in construction) to primarily hold you in place. My opinion is that the rope style is perfect for boat use, keep it the shortest possible length that lets you do what you need to do and keep you aboard, I don't like the stretchy style even when working iron. when aboard there are few places you can fall 6 feet unless you're up the mast, so any stretch is likely to put you overboard. and a fall is the only time you need the shock absorbtion If you know any people in commercial construction they are a good source for the lanyards, used ones are tossed all the time, if the rope is frayed they are supposed to be destroyed, but the hooks are forged steel so can be used again. I'm going against the tide I think when I say that I don't see any problem with building your own, I'd use rope with good eye splices and thimbles though not strap that's personal though, I like the feel of rope better than a strap, often end up holding on to the lanyard, and it's just easier to hold onto rope. some of them come with two sizes of hooks on them, I used the larger hooks for hooks on 4 ton come-alongs and chains and have broken come-alongs with them on, but not the hooks. they are safety hooks so require conscious effort to open, extremely unlikely to get bumped open. Ken.
many safety supplues carry tethers, most are cheaper than anything I've ever seen from nautical supplies They generally have two styles, the 'bungie' type that are designed to keep stresses on the person to a minimum, they work by internal breakage, the outside jacket is strong enough to hold the rated capacity, but the internals are weak fibers designed to break and slow down the fall so there's no backbreaking jerk when you hit the end of the strap, these normally have a crumplued outer jacket held in place with some stiching the others are just ropes, designed (in construction) to primarily hold you in place. My opinion is that the rope style is perfect for boat use, keep it the shortest possible length that lets you do what you need to do and keep you aboard, I don't like the stretchy style even when working iron. when aboard there are few places you can fall 6 feet unless you're up the mast, so any stretch is likely to put you overboard. and a fall is the only time you need the shock absorbtion If you know any people in commercial construction they are a good source for the lanyards, used ones are tossed all the time, if the rope is frayed they are supposed to be destroyed, but the hooks are forged steel so can be used again. I'm going against the tide I think when I say that I don't see any problem with building your own, I'd use rope with good eye splices and thimbles though not strap that's personal though, I like the feel of rope better than a strap, often end up holding on to the lanyard, and it's just easier to hold onto rope. some of them come with two sizes of hooks on them, I used the larger hooks for hooks on 4 ton come-alongs and chains and have broken come-alongs with them on, but not the hooks. they are safety hooks so require conscious effort to open, extremely unlikely to get bumped open. Ken.
Tony, just a couple of comments...
1. A single jack line is better than none. Two, one on each side of the boat, is best. 2. Your jack lines should be flat strapping, not round rope, for a very good reason. If you step on a round jack line in the dark, it will roll, causing you to lose your balance. A good tether should be along the lines of what the others have advised. A good choice is to have a dual tether; a six foot and a three foot type so that you can move the length of the boat without every unclipping from the jack line. Terry
1. A single jack line is better than none. Two, one on each side of the boat, is best. 2. Your jack lines should be flat strapping, not round rope, for a very good reason. If you step on a round jack line in the dark, it will roll, causing you to lose your balance. A good tether should be along the lines of what the others have advised. A good choice is to have a dual tether; a six foot and a three foot type so that you can move the length of the boat without every unclipping from the jack line. Terry
But be careful with the flat strap jack lines
I have flat straps for my jack lines. Like Terry have already said, round lines will roll underfoot. One thing with the flat straps is that it is often difficult to tie a knot that will not slip or loosen. You don't want to depend your life on the jack lines and then have it slip right off the cleat. To make sure it stays secure, I sew an eye at the end, put it over the cleat, then cleat it the normal way.
I have flat straps for my jack lines. Like Terry have already said, round lines will roll underfoot. One thing with the flat straps is that it is often difficult to tie a knot that will not slip or loosen. You don't want to depend your life on the jack lines and then have it slip right off the cleat. To make sure it stays secure, I sew an eye at the end, put it over the cleat, then cleat it the normal way.
Knot for webbing
the only knot climbers will use for webbing is a water knot, basically a rewoven overhand knot, suited for putting a loop in the end of webbing or joining the webbing to form a loop. Climbers also use "tubular" webbing, which looks like regular flat webbing but is actually a tube, about 25 to 60 cents a foot. I use this stuff as a back up system on the bosuns chair. I think I would be safer in a seat or waist harness ( with legs going through loops) than a chest harness. What prevents the chest harness from being pulled off? Is there a crotch strap?
the only knot climbers will use for webbing is a water knot, basically a rewoven overhand knot, suited for putting a loop in the end of webbing or joining the webbing to form a loop. Climbers also use "tubular" webbing, which looks like regular flat webbing but is actually a tube, about 25 to 60 cents a foot. I use this stuff as a back up system on the bosuns chair. I think I would be safer in a seat or waist harness ( with legs going through loops) than a chest harness. What prevents the chest harness from being pulled off? Is there a crotch strap?
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