holding tank?

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Steve Cunning

Again, holding tank issues..... Just took out a holding tank which I suppose was not the original, as I understand the original was installed under the shower?? This was to starboard in a locker under the V-berth. The tank use to leak when it was full (cracked at top). I removed it this fall, basically broke apart on some of the fittings hooked to the tank. Just wondering if there is some sort of bladder type holding out there that would fit, or a tank that somebody knows about that could be installed without tearing apart a whole section of the boat. I don't think the tank I took out was any bigger than 5 gallons!!. Would appreciate any successful idea some of you used out there... Thanks Steve
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

You don't want a bladder!

Check Ronco Plastics (link below)...they make top quality tanks, and have more than 400 shapes/sizes--including over 100 that are non-rectangular.
 
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Ed Schenck

See Photo Forum.

See the Photo Forum archives(Related Link below) for my solution entitled "Avoid This Project". A lot of work and I will always wonder if I should have left the bladder tank and just replaced the hoses. The bladder tank was 30 gallons, took very little space even when nearly full, had no odor, and never leaked. But "conventional wisdom", whatever that is, told me it should be replaced. Or was it Peggy? :) So now there is a 22 gallon Ronco in there taking up valuable storage. My other thought was to build a custom tank into the starboard v-berth locker using epoxy and glass cloth. But I was talked out of that one. You can write for all the gory details. Ed h37skipper@aol.com
 
Jul 22, 1996
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Hunter 356 Deale MD
Bladder, a badder idea!

I agree with Peggy. No bladder! My boat came with a bladder. Nothing but trouble and, in the heat of the day, stink. I replaced mine with a poly tank under the v-berth. Being lazy and not wanting to cut the fiberglass and short on time I opted for a 5 gal tank because it would fit through the opening. My plan is to upgrade it to a larger size when I replace the water tanks. Where in Deal do you keep your boat? Mine is at Shipwright for now.
 
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Sanders LaMont

Even though mine works, Peggy's right

I have an adequate (for now) bladder in the V berth, but having done a lot of reading and talking on the docks I think Peggy's advice is sound; you can find a much better quality tank, for the same money, and save headaches and stink in the future by going with the hard tanks. The basic issue is a lack of confidence that the bladder willl hold up under stress. The archives hold some horror stories. My current plan is to install a replacement ard tank in the V berth, but buy one smaller than Ed's so I don't have to do the cutting. My wife has no doubts that a hard tank, properly installed with highh quality hoses, is the way to go. Sanders s/v Good News
 
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Steve Humenick

Tank in Bilge?

Has anyone installed a holding tank in the bilge? A quick look and measurement shows that a 10x18x20 or about a 14 gallon tank should fit in the compartment aft of the shower sump pump. As far as I can tell the hoses should fit under the shower/head pan. Adding the nifty shower seat hatch like MYST has might allow the waste seacock, Y valve and pump to be located where the original tank resided and free up all of the V berth space for dry (hopefully) storage. Best of all no need to cut up the boat, just add a plywood shelf to support the tank off the keel bolts, bilge water will still be able to run aft under the tank. Only down side seems to be the length of hoses required and a rather small tank capacity if the actual stock Ronco tank size is closer to 10 gal or less. This is still in the brainstorming stage, I'll try and take a closer look next weekend.
 
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Ed Schenck

Doubt that.

The good tanks all have top fittings(see my pictures). That requires at least three inches, probably four, between the bottom of the sole hatch and the top of the tank. Then there is the very difficult task of routing very unfriendly hoses into that area. How do you get past the shower sump and over the frames? The best place remains the area under the sette where the starboard water tank resides. If the tank could be relocated back against the galley sink you would have the perfect spot. You lose that storage area aft of the water tank but you gain everything forward including under the shower seat. And that is a good place for the overboard thru-hull but you have to close off the old thru-hull and cut a new one. If you don't have the problem of transducers in the center v-berth then there are tanks over 20 gals. that will fit in that hole. But I had to leave room to get in front and below the tank. The starboard v-berth locker could be glassed in for a custom tank but you would have to relocate the overboard thru-hull on some model years(like my '79).
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Not QUITE true Ed...

Your fittings are on the top because that's where YOU specified them--one of the advantages of buying from Ronco. And whenever the tank location permits, that's the best place to put them. But that doesn't mean that all the best tanks come that way. However, the bilge is the WORST possible location for a holding tank, not only for the reasons that you mentioned, but because it's impossible to vent it to prevent it from stinking.
 
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chet p

20 gal????

which ronco 20 gal tank will fit. my tranducers are located in the bilge compartment just outside the head area so access is not a problem. My thought was to "T" together 2 smaller tanks both on the inlet and outlet so as to not have one large tank to deal with. could cascade from one to the other and pump out together...just a thought...cp
 
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Yehudi

aluminum under v-berth

I found a guy who loved to weld aluminum..luckily he was also good at it. We made careful measurements of the large hold under the v-berth and managed to fit a 27 gallon tank in there while still preserving the macerator tank under the aft end of the v-berth to starboard. I connected it all with a y-valve and still have a good option for offshore. I would expect going with a ronco would be even better. Say...Ed Schenck...why are you so in favor of pumping out from the top?
 
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Gene Gruender

Gene Gruender

As to the aluminum tank, I can weld it, too. And did. And mine lasted about 2 years. I hope you have a way to glass the inside of it in a few years, 'cause I can assure you it's going to leak soon. Sorry to be the one to bring you the bad news, but I already went through it. As to pumping out of the top, if a hose leaks, all you'll lose is what is in the hose. Have the opening in the bottom, well, you can guess!
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Fittings on top eliminates

standing waste in the pumpout line to permeate it. Also allows the macerator to be above the tank yet still be close enough to the outlet to prime quickly, reducing impeller wear from running dry. And when the impeller does have to be replaced, no spill when you disconnect the hose. No spills when the hoses have to be replaced, too.
 
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Ed Schenck

One more "top" advantage.

My inlet and outlet(and vent) are on top as we discussed. Besides the advantages that Peggy and Gene mentioned I get a much cleaner tank at pumpout. Because the outlet is a standpipe and goes very close to the bottom I have less than 1/2" of stuff left in the tank. If the outlet comes off the bottom as soon as the vacuum is broken you are done. You will have close to 2" remaining in the tank. True, you can have a side mounted outlet that is still a standpipe. But then you can't fill the tank without it going into the outlet hose. Something about "stuff" seeking it's own level. :)
 
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