It has been 9 years since I bought my Hunter 37.5 and from what I have been reading here it is time to replace my aluminam holding tank. All the standard catalogs (WM/Boat US) do not offer the size polyethelene tank I need. Does anyone know of a manufacturer/distributor of custom sized polyethelene tanks?
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Research the Archives
This topic has been well documented in the archives. There are several good posts for holding tank change outs for the 37.5. While you are at it, think about changing the hoses.
This topic has been well documented in the archives. There are several good posts for holding tank change outs for the 37.5. While you are at it, think about changing the hoses.
All you need to know...
is in an article I wrote for this site last year. Tells you not only where to buy tank alternatives but how to replace it on 37.5. Article is in the archives and I've pasted the link for it below, but, in case the link does not work, go to the archives dialog box and do a search on words: holding tank; Hunter model: 37.5; search in year: 2003. Feel free to e-mail me at bleney@clir.org if I can help you further. I learned more about doing all this than I really wanted to know! After reading the article you will understand why I now have a spare, never-used stock Ronco B227 20 gallon tank, configured for a 37.5, including hold-down tabs and fittings, looking for a new owner. Contact me if you decide to go the Ronco route and I'll be able to make that part very easy for you.
is in an article I wrote for this site last year. Tells you not only where to buy tank alternatives but how to replace it on 37.5. Article is in the archives and I've pasted the link for it below, but, in case the link does not work, go to the archives dialog box and do a search on words: holding tank; Hunter model: 37.5; search in year: 2003. Feel free to e-mail me at bleney@clir.org if I can help you further. I learned more about doing all this than I really wanted to know! After reading the article you will understand why I now have a spare, never-used stock Ronco B227 20 gallon tank, configured for a 37.5, including hold-down tabs and fittings, looking for a new owner. Contact me if you decide to go the Ronco route and I'll be able to make that part very easy for you.
Excellent article, Brian!
I have only one minor correction, one update, and an additional suggestion: The correction: Holding tank discharge standpipe/pickup tubes should indeed touch the bottom of the tank...but then be cut at about a 25 degree angle, which leaves up to an inch in the tank--less actually, than is left when the discharge is at the bottom. If cut at a sharper angle, it will (as you noted) cause the pumpout to start sucking air too soon, leaving too much at the bottom...but if flat or cut at a shallower angle sludge can clog it, preventing anythng from being pumped out. The update: The original SeaLand "OdorSafe" hose was/is actually made by Australian company...SeaLand just imported it and private labeled it. The Aussies are now selling it here under their own brand name AVS96 "Odor Free." Price is comparable to SeaLand's price for it. SeaLand now has "new and improved" (but doesn't everyone claim that ANY changed in their product "improves" it?) OdorSafePlus. I understand they're getting it from an Italian mfr. Price is comparable to the original. The original by any name has been independently tested and proven to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose in the world...I've seen no test data on SeaLand's "new and improved" hose, nor heard of any. Till I do, I recommend that you stick the Aussie hose. The additional suggestion: When specifying fittings sizes and locations, put both the inlet and the vent fitting toward the centerline of the boat, away from the hull...to prevent waste from running back toward the toilet or out the vent when you're heeled. If you have at least 5" clearance above the tank, put ALL the fittings on the top of the tank instead of on a vertical surface...'cuz fittings on a vertical surface reduces useable tank capacity. If 5" clearance isn't available, at least try to keep 2" to allow the vent to go on the top.
I have only one minor correction, one update, and an additional suggestion: The correction: Holding tank discharge standpipe/pickup tubes should indeed touch the bottom of the tank...but then be cut at about a 25 degree angle, which leaves up to an inch in the tank--less actually, than is left when the discharge is at the bottom. If cut at a sharper angle, it will (as you noted) cause the pumpout to start sucking air too soon, leaving too much at the bottom...but if flat or cut at a shallower angle sludge can clog it, preventing anythng from being pumped out. The update: The original SeaLand "OdorSafe" hose was/is actually made by Australian company...SeaLand just imported it and private labeled it. The Aussies are now selling it here under their own brand name AVS96 "Odor Free." Price is comparable to SeaLand's price for it. SeaLand now has "new and improved" (but doesn't everyone claim that ANY changed in their product "improves" it?) OdorSafePlus. I understand they're getting it from an Italian mfr. Price is comparable to the original. The original by any name has been independently tested and proven to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose in the world...I've seen no test data on SeaLand's "new and improved" hose, nor heard of any. Till I do, I recommend that you stick the Aussie hose. The additional suggestion: When specifying fittings sizes and locations, put both the inlet and the vent fitting toward the centerline of the boat, away from the hull...to prevent waste from running back toward the toilet or out the vent when you're heeled. If you have at least 5" clearance above the tank, put ALL the fittings on the top of the tank instead of on a vertical surface...'cuz fittings on a vertical surface reduces useable tank capacity. If 5" clearance isn't available, at least try to keep 2" to allow the vent to go on the top.
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