I have a 2006 Hunter 25 with holding tank. The head doesn't seem to be pumping any water. I am wondering whether this is because the holding tank is full. I have had the boat since the end of May and used it on average every two weeks since, and also spent a bit of time on it at the marina without taking it out. How do you know if the holding tank is full? I have located the switch for the pump, and the outlet on the stern. Do you just hit the switch and it pumps out or is anything else required, e.g. do you connect a hose to the outlet. Picture attached.
Holding tank pump out on 2006 Hunter 25
- Thread starter Craig May
- Start date
That outlet looks more like a vent. If stuff is coming out your way too full. The pumpout should be a flat deck fitting. The pump is on shore at a facility that takes your crap. Please don’t pump overboard (if that’s an option for you ) unless your 3nm into the ocean.
Les
Les
You have a 20 Gallon tank on board. If I recall, it is a straight line to the holding tank with no Y valve. Vent is on port side of hull and your photo is for the pumpout. As I recalled there was no electric pump as this is a manual head of installed by Hunter.
Suggest head be pumped out by marina. There is a seacock and it should be open. If the handle on the seacock is in line with the hose, it is open.
It could be inlet to the seacock is clogged or the pump itself. That is what I think is going on. @Peggie Hall HeadMistress can you help with the pump? Thanks
Suggest head be pumped out by marina. There is a seacock and it should be open. If the handle on the seacock is in line with the hose, it is open.
It could be inlet to the seacock is clogged or the pump itself. That is what I think is going on. @Peggie Hall HeadMistress can you help with the pump? Thanks
I'm not familiar with the 25, I have a 27 so I'm assuming there their identical. There should be an 4 " spin off access hatch on the top of the holding tank. A quick look inside will tell you immediately how full your tank is. If you have liquid seeping from your vent your way over full.
You have two problems: 1. a toilet that doesn't bring in any flush water and 2. a tank that's definitely full and has been since at least June if you've used the boat every other weekend since May and have never pumped out. And there's no point in solving the first problem until you solve the second one because you can't use the toilet again until you do.
Continuing to flush a toilet into a full tank forces it to overflow out the vent....That's prob'ly created a blocked tank vent. A blocked vent would cause the tank to become pressurized, so I would not advise removing any inspection port on the tank to see if it's full unless you want to take a bath in a tankful of sewage. Opening the pumpout fitting is also likely to result in spew UNLESS the boat has sat long enough for the pressure in the system to dissipate. You won't be able to pump out until you've cleared the vent because, if no air is being pulled in through the vent as contents are being pulled out, the pumpout will pull a vacuum that'll prevent it from removing more than a gallon or two. So the first thing you have to do is scrape the waste buildup out of the vent thru-hull...use a screwdriver blade, ice pick--whatever works. Hopefully only the thru-hull is blocked, but there's a good chance the vent line is clogged at the other end--the vent fitting on the tank and that end of the vent line. If that's the case, there's only one way to find out: You're in Queensland Australia where it's only necessary to be at least 1 mile offshore (vs 3 miles in the US) to dump a tank....take the boat out that far and, making sure your bow is INTO the wind, VERY CAREFULLY open the pumpout fitting, having bucket of water (sea water is ok) at the ready if you need it. If there's no spew, the tank isn't pressurized...you can safely remove the vent line from the tank to clean out that end of the hose and the vent fitting on the tank. Once the vent is clear, you'll be able to pump out.
A full tank would have nothing to do with the toilet's ability to bring in flush water. There can be several reasons why it doesn't: the flush water intake thru-hull isn't open...the wet/dry lever is in the "dry" position...or, if the toilet is a Jabsco (which would have been what Hunter installed), the wet/dry cam assembly in the pump may have failed....it's a very common problem in Jabsco toilets. The wet/dry "valve" is actually just a little "gate" (the cam) that the lever swings to block or unblock the flow of incoming flush water. Due to either a tooling or mfr'g flaw, it hangs up...creating back pressure that feels like pumping against a clog or blocked tank vent, except it only happens in one mode--usually--but not always--the wet mode. The cure: replace the wet/dry cam assembly...but then you have to take the pump apart to replace it, which can be a PITA and really messy because you can't flush water through the pump to clean it out before you take it apart. So my advice: just replace the pump instead. If it's still original (which is VERY unlikely), it's 12 years old and modern Jabsco toilets have fairly short lifespan--they're purposely made to be "disposable" like everything else today. A service kit costs almost as much as a pump, which doesn't cost that much anyway.
However, after 12 years it's very likely the toilet has already been replaced at least once and may not be a Jabsco...so if you can tell me what it is (post a photo if you don't know), I can give you a link to the owners manual.
You also need a tank level indicator so you won't keep overfilling the tank. The SCAD system Scad Tank Monitors is the top rated and easiest to install because the sender goes on the outside of the tank, and the single tank "solo" version is inexpensive. If it's not sold in OZ, it's small enough and weighs so little that air mail postage from the US wouldn't cost you much either. But you also need to know about how many flushes a 20 gal tank can hold. 3 gal/day/person is the average...so two people aboard would put 6 gal/day into it...which would just about fills up a 20 gal tank in 3 days.
And finally...please consider getting my book (see link my signature). The title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws (US, so wouldn't apply to you), describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em. 'Cuz you get to do any preventive maintenance on your terms when it's convenient...the need to cure a problem never happens when it is! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't. Boatbooks Australia has it...not sure if the price would be better than ordering it from Sbo.com + postage...both only have the printed version. Least expensive would be the kindle version from Amazon.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
Continuing to flush a toilet into a full tank forces it to overflow out the vent....That's prob'ly created a blocked tank vent. A blocked vent would cause the tank to become pressurized, so I would not advise removing any inspection port on the tank to see if it's full unless you want to take a bath in a tankful of sewage. Opening the pumpout fitting is also likely to result in spew UNLESS the boat has sat long enough for the pressure in the system to dissipate. You won't be able to pump out until you've cleared the vent because, if no air is being pulled in through the vent as contents are being pulled out, the pumpout will pull a vacuum that'll prevent it from removing more than a gallon or two. So the first thing you have to do is scrape the waste buildup out of the vent thru-hull...use a screwdriver blade, ice pick--whatever works. Hopefully only the thru-hull is blocked, but there's a good chance the vent line is clogged at the other end--the vent fitting on the tank and that end of the vent line. If that's the case, there's only one way to find out: You're in Queensland Australia where it's only necessary to be at least 1 mile offshore (vs 3 miles in the US) to dump a tank....take the boat out that far and, making sure your bow is INTO the wind, VERY CAREFULLY open the pumpout fitting, having bucket of water (sea water is ok) at the ready if you need it. If there's no spew, the tank isn't pressurized...you can safely remove the vent line from the tank to clean out that end of the hose and the vent fitting on the tank. Once the vent is clear, you'll be able to pump out.
A full tank would have nothing to do with the toilet's ability to bring in flush water. There can be several reasons why it doesn't: the flush water intake thru-hull isn't open...the wet/dry lever is in the "dry" position...or, if the toilet is a Jabsco (which would have been what Hunter installed), the wet/dry cam assembly in the pump may have failed....it's a very common problem in Jabsco toilets. The wet/dry "valve" is actually just a little "gate" (the cam) that the lever swings to block or unblock the flow of incoming flush water. Due to either a tooling or mfr'g flaw, it hangs up...creating back pressure that feels like pumping against a clog or blocked tank vent, except it only happens in one mode--usually--but not always--the wet mode. The cure: replace the wet/dry cam assembly...but then you have to take the pump apart to replace it, which can be a PITA and really messy because you can't flush water through the pump to clean it out before you take it apart. So my advice: just replace the pump instead. If it's still original (which is VERY unlikely), it's 12 years old and modern Jabsco toilets have fairly short lifespan--they're purposely made to be "disposable" like everything else today. A service kit costs almost as much as a pump, which doesn't cost that much anyway.
However, after 12 years it's very likely the toilet has already been replaced at least once and may not be a Jabsco...so if you can tell me what it is (post a photo if you don't know), I can give you a link to the owners manual.
You also need a tank level indicator so you won't keep overfilling the tank. The SCAD system Scad Tank Monitors is the top rated and easiest to install because the sender goes on the outside of the tank, and the single tank "solo" version is inexpensive. If it's not sold in OZ, it's small enough and weighs so little that air mail postage from the US wouldn't cost you much either. But you also need to know about how many flushes a 20 gal tank can hold. 3 gal/day/person is the average...so two people aboard would put 6 gal/day into it...which would just about fills up a 20 gal tank in 3 days.
And finally...please consider getting my book (see link my signature). The title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws (US, so wouldn't apply to you), describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em. 'Cuz you get to do any preventive maintenance on your terms when it's convenient...the need to cure a problem never happens when it is! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't. Boatbooks Australia has it...not sure if the price would be better than ordering it from Sbo.com + postage...both only have the printed version. Least expensive would be the kindle version from Amazon.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
A plus to Peggy's excellent reply, is when you crack open the cap on the deck pumpout, put a wet towel over it. Water, to weight it down. I like to put that towel over the pumpout nozzle, as you never know when you'll move it and cause a gyser. It happens!
Also, if you try to pump the handle and on the down-stoke it feels like back pressure, just push the wet/dry lever to dry and it should pump- probably repeatedly. Mine's been like that for some time.
Also, if you try to pump the handle and on the down-stoke it feels like back pressure, just push the wet/dry lever to dry and it should pump- probably repeatedly. Mine's been like that for some time.
Deck fill caps for most Hunter sailboats
Stainless, nylon, in all the shapes and sizes, replacement caps are in stock.
See the product
Thanks for your replies. I will let you know how I get on. I tried to take down the duplicate picture but couldn't work out how.
I think a lesson learned the hard way is a great reminder to never go that long without a pumpout. If you remove the cap from the fitting just below the vent that is spewing the nasty stuff you will be sprayed with what ever resides in the holding tank and you will immediately understand the need for regular pumpouts. Seriously follow Peggie’s suggestions, you want to avoid getting a shower from your holding tank. Better yet, get a not so close friend to remove the cap. You only need to keep in mind once your friend does the deed he will no longer be your friend, so choose wisely. Just kidding!
...Or to open the pumpout cap after you've kept flushing a toilet with a full bowl that doesn't want to go down--a lesson I learned the hard way 30 years ago. I was over the side and into the water, shoes, watch, sunglasses and all, before the spew stopped!
A tank level indicator won't prevent a blocked vent but it will tell you how full the tank is getting, providing plenty of advance notice that you need to pumpout.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
I usually put some water on the pumpout cap before I crack it loose. If the water bubbles, the air trapped in the pumpout hose is compressed, as is the tank contents. Let the air flow until the bubbles stop. More water, before trying to remove the cap completely. Still, put a towel over the cap when you work it further loose. And keep you mouth closed.
Peggy
I sold a hunter 44 years ago and the owner was too lazy to call the marina for the honey wagon boat to come and pump out claiming warranty. Third time I made a shield with a geyser coming out all over the deck. I left it as is on the deck with note that was not warranty.
Later I had him haul boat out as I saw things. Owner advised never ran aground.
Funny thing coral,concrete, rebarb embedded in keel and hull. Keel torn away from hull and third of rudder missing
I said warranty now invalid and his attorney was advised as well who was a sailor too
I sold a hunter 44 years ago and the owner was too lazy to call the marina for the honey wagon boat to come and pump out claiming warranty. Third time I made a shield with a geyser coming out all over the deck. I left it as is on the deck with note that was not warranty.
Later I had him haul boat out as I saw things. Owner advised never ran aground.
Funny thing coral,concrete, rebarb embedded in keel and hull. Keel torn away from hull and third of rudder missing
I said warranty now invalid and his attorney was advised as well who was a sailor too
Amen on that Peggy. I threw a married couple off my yard. Both were doctors with two sons 10/11 who were unscrewing the pads on the jack stands with a 45 center cockpit being supported. I saw the boat tilt. Ran over knocking those two young idiots out of harm’s way while risking my life to wind the pads up I called my competition to be aware but never listened. Other dealers did and thanked me. The married couple were toxic to sailors and dealers with two trouble makers who caused a lot of damage along the way