I checked my Hunter 30 (1990) today, and the holding tank was completely full. We used the boat two weeks ago, and finished with our usual ritual: pump out and rinse out three times, flush 3oz of K.O., Clean head with C.P., pump about three times, close ALL through hull seacocks,leave head in the "dry position." Could the holding tank have siphoned a full tank between the pump out stantion and our moorage (about 200 yards)? There are no siphon loops on any of the lines, which is why I always keep the valves closed, accept when in use. I had all of the the thru-hull's replaced last March when I bought the boat. Admittedly, the plumping is a little strange. The tank was orginally in the head area (port side, abreast of the engine), and was moved to the aft stateroom. The lines run as follows: "Y" valve at the head. One line runs to direct discharge seacock (1 1/2") Other line runs to holding tank (12 gal). "T" fitting at holding tank. One line goes to deck pump out. The other line goes to a macerator pump added by the previous owner discharges thorugh a seacock(3/4"). Third seacock (3/4") is the intake to head. Something fishy is going on...maybe this explains why our tank always seems so small, even on a weekend trip... I've been think about re-plumbing to eliminate one seacock. The head would discharge only to the tank, and I'd move the "Y" to the tank between macerator/overboard seacock and deck pump-out. We cruise on Puget Sound, and have never discharged overboard Your thoughts about all of this?
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Ray Bowles
Dean, When you pumped the tank is there any
chance that the head inlet water line and valve were such that you siphoned water straight thru into the holding tank? Then when you added the chemicals and the water to carry them you actually topped off the holding tank. From your discription of the plumbing that is the only situtation I see that would fill the tank. You are right on in your idea about replumbing. The system you described is exactly the same as mine to my 20 gal halding tank and it works well. The item you will be giving up is the ability to pump straight overboard without using the macerator pump. But that's a crappy practice to start with. Good luck. Let us know the answer. Ray S/V Speedy PS. Buy the really good, and expensive, hose now as you replumb. Mine came with the cheaper hose and that hose replacement is the project I'll be doing this week end. The smell was REAL bad and came on very suddenly.
chance that the head inlet water line and valve were such that you siphoned water straight thru into the holding tank? Then when you added the chemicals and the water to carry them you actually topped off the holding tank. From your discription of the plumbing that is the only situtation I see that would fill the tank. You are right on in your idea about replumbing. The system you described is exactly the same as mine to my 20 gal halding tank and it works well. The item you will be giving up is the ability to pump straight overboard without using the macerator pump. But that's a crappy practice to start with. Good luck. Let us know the answer. Ray S/V Speedy PS. Buy the really good, and expensive, hose now as you replumb. Mine came with the cheaper hose and that hose replacement is the project I'll be doing this week end. The smell was REAL bad and came on very suddenly.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Several possibilities
Dean's scenario is impossible unless the tank vent is blocked, and unlikely even then...'cuz it would take such powerful suction to pull water all the way from the intake into the tank that you'd prob'ly collapse the tank first. Even if you didn't, you'd have a full toilet bowl too. However, if you're relying on the dry-flush valve instead of closing the intake seacock (I know you said you close ALL of 'em...but just in case "all" doesn't include the head intake...), the dry-flush valve could be leaking just enough to fill your tank over time...although again, you'd also have a full toilet bowl unless it's a VERY slow leak. Since it's your tank that's filling up, and not your toilet bowl, the most likely source for the water is the macerator seacock (which has to be 1", not 3/4", btw, unless you have a macerator unlike any other or there's a reducer in the line). So--If you've never dumped the tank using the macerator, are you even 100% certain that it's closed? Or are you just assuming that it is because you've never opened it? If it looks closed, check the handles on your seacocks...it's not impossible that a handle could be installed backward--that what you think is open is actually closed and vice versa. If that's not it, the seacock could be leaking. New doesn't rule out defective. If you do decide to replumb, put the y-valve ahead of the macerator--between it and the tank, not between the macerator and the thru-hull. If you put it after the macerator, you won't be able to pump out because the macerator will be in the way of the flow to the deck fitting. Put a vented loop in the line between the macerator and the thru-hull, though.
Dean's scenario is impossible unless the tank vent is blocked, and unlikely even then...'cuz it would take such powerful suction to pull water all the way from the intake into the tank that you'd prob'ly collapse the tank first. Even if you didn't, you'd have a full toilet bowl too. However, if you're relying on the dry-flush valve instead of closing the intake seacock (I know you said you close ALL of 'em...but just in case "all" doesn't include the head intake...), the dry-flush valve could be leaking just enough to fill your tank over time...although again, you'd also have a full toilet bowl unless it's a VERY slow leak. Since it's your tank that's filling up, and not your toilet bowl, the most likely source for the water is the macerator seacock (which has to be 1", not 3/4", btw, unless you have a macerator unlike any other or there's a reducer in the line). So--If you've never dumped the tank using the macerator, are you even 100% certain that it's closed? Or are you just assuming that it is because you've never opened it? If it looks closed, check the handles on your seacocks...it's not impossible that a handle could be installed backward--that what you think is open is actually closed and vice versa. If that's not it, the seacock could be leaking. New doesn't rule out defective. If you do decide to replumb, put the y-valve ahead of the macerator--between it and the tank, not between the macerator and the thru-hull. If you put it after the macerator, you won't be able to pump out because the macerator will be in the way of the flow to the deck fitting. Put a vented loop in the line between the macerator and the thru-hull, though.
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Dean Strong
Vent line is clear, bowl is empty....
The vent line is open, because on the third flush, I always fill the tank until water comes out the vent line, to make sure it is clear and clean. The only possibility at this point seems that water would be coming through the macerator line, and that the seacock handle is reversed, slightly open, or the seacock is failing. Is there much risk in slowly backing off the hoseclamps to see if there is water pressure in the line (after it is closed). Otherwise, it seems like I'll have to haul the boat out to inspect and repair... Thanks.
The vent line is open, because on the third flush, I always fill the tank until water comes out the vent line, to make sure it is clear and clean. The only possibility at this point seems that water would be coming through the macerator line, and that the seacock handle is reversed, slightly open, or the seacock is failing. Is there much risk in slowly backing off the hoseclamps to see if there is water pressure in the line (after it is closed). Otherwise, it seems like I'll have to haul the boat out to inspect and repair... Thanks.
Another pump out is in order.
Dean: Before you spend a couple of hundred bucks for a pull. I would go through the exercise of pumping out your tank again. Then see if you have the same problem. I do not think that there is any way that a ball valve/sea cock can leak like this (if it is in the correct position). If you thought it was closed but it was not is the only good explaination. Let us know what happens.
Dean: Before you spend a couple of hundred bucks for a pull. I would go through the exercise of pumping out your tank again. Then see if you have the same problem. I do not think that there is any way that a ball valve/sea cock can leak like this (if it is in the correct position). If you thought it was closed but it was not is the only good explaination. Let us know what happens.
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Dean Strong
Pump out...
Yes, I pumped out the boat yesterday, and for the hour I remained, there was no change. I should have a chance to check on it the next day or two... I know you'll all be anxiously waiting to know if it has filled again!!!!
Yes, I pumped out the boat yesterday, and for the hour I remained, there was no change. I should have a chance to check on it the next day or two... I know you'll all be anxiously waiting to know if it has filled again!!!!
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