Currently my holding tank is under the v-berth, I think originally it was under the molded seat in the shower. What's the best way to access this space, has anyone added a hatch to the port side of this seat? Thanks, Ken DeLacy 79 37c
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area under the shower
Yes, the original tanks was under the shower seat. When I bought Rainbow Chaser at 10 years of age, my tank was already long gone. As you can guess, it's impossible to replace it there. I took a hand grinder and cut the old tank into small enough pieces to get it out. This was done from the hold in the back side of the v-berth on the starboard side. I use the area now for storage of stuff I don't need very often. I don't see any reason you couldn't add the deck plate for access. You would have to get the remains of the tank out, though.
Yes, the original tanks was under the shower seat. When I bought Rainbow Chaser at 10 years of age, my tank was already long gone. As you can guess, it's impossible to replace it there. I took a hand grinder and cut the old tank into small enough pieces to get it out. This was done from the hold in the back side of the v-berth on the starboard side. I use the area now for storage of stuff I don't need very often. I don't see any reason you couldn't add the deck plate for access. You would have to get the remains of the tank out, though.
Holding tank modification
Ken, When we took delivery on our '79 cutter the holding tank had been replaced with a 5 gallon bladder hung on the forward bulkhead in the center storage space under the vee berth. A gusher type bilge pump had been mounted on the aft bulkhead in the compartment and could be pumped overboard or through a deck plate discharge. The bladder being designed to lay flat had limited storage capacity and the air vent hose had a low spot in it so when it overflowed it plugged the vent. On top of that the diaphram in the pump developed a leak. Nice situation when the weather warmed up on the Chesapeake Bay. To fix the mess I glassed a platform into the storage space with a cutout so I could get to the through hull and mounted a 10 gallon PVC tank which was the largest tank I could get in without cutting the opening larger The outlet goes to a y-valve that can be locked in either the overboard position (for when I finally get to retire and can spend some time crusing) with a maceator pump and on the other side to the pump out deck plate. I ran a power source from the control panel into the compartment and installed a switch so I can run the pump from up front without worrying about running it dry. The switch is in a waterproof box with a ready light and a running light. After several years now the smell is almost gone except on really hot days. I keep spraying KO in the front compartments and use it in the holding tank. Along with a solar fan in the front hatch for ventilation the system is working. Frank SV*Stargazer
Ken, When we took delivery on our '79 cutter the holding tank had been replaced with a 5 gallon bladder hung on the forward bulkhead in the center storage space under the vee berth. A gusher type bilge pump had been mounted on the aft bulkhead in the compartment and could be pumped overboard or through a deck plate discharge. The bladder being designed to lay flat had limited storage capacity and the air vent hose had a low spot in it so when it overflowed it plugged the vent. On top of that the diaphram in the pump developed a leak. Nice situation when the weather warmed up on the Chesapeake Bay. To fix the mess I glassed a platform into the storage space with a cutout so I could get to the through hull and mounted a 10 gallon PVC tank which was the largest tank I could get in without cutting the opening larger The outlet goes to a y-valve that can be locked in either the overboard position (for when I finally get to retire and can spend some time crusing) with a maceator pump and on the other side to the pump out deck plate. I ran a power source from the control panel into the compartment and installed a switch so I can run the pump from up front without worrying about running it dry. The switch is in a waterproof box with a ready light and a running light. After several years now the smell is almost gone except on really hot days. I keep spraying KO in the front compartments and use it in the holding tank. Along with a solar fan in the front hatch for ventilation the system is working. Frank SV*Stargazer
Why do you want to move it?
On a sailboat, the best location for a holding tank IS the v-berth. For a complete explanation of the reasons why, read the article in the Head Mistress forum reference library called "Holding Tank Odor Control." Frank, you can get rid of your odor completely if you'll leave the whole area open for a day after you spray it down with K.O. so that plenty of fresh air can circulate in it. You might even turn a fan on to make sure air gets everywhere in that locker. If the odor comes back after you close it up again, check your hoses for permeation even if they're new. Hoses can permeate very quickly if sewage stands in 'em--mine did in only two months.
On a sailboat, the best location for a holding tank IS the v-berth. For a complete explanation of the reasons why, read the article in the Head Mistress forum reference library called "Holding Tank Odor Control." Frank, you can get rid of your odor completely if you'll leave the whole area open for a day after you spray it down with K.O. so that plenty of fresh air can circulate in it. You might even turn a fan on to make sure air gets everywhere in that locker. If the odor comes back after you close it up again, check your hoses for permeation even if they're new. Hoses can permeate very quickly if sewage stands in 'em--mine did in only two months.
Just curious what lives where it used to be
and would like to use space for storage. Thanks for the replies. Ken
and would like to use space for storage. Thanks for the replies. Ken
PUT NEW TANK UNDER SEAT
THE FIRST SUMMER I OWNED MY H37C PERSISTENCE, I DISCOVERED A VERY STRONG FOUL ODOR WHEN I OPENED THE COMPANIONWAY ON A HOT (90+ DEGREE)DAY. MUCH TO MY CHAGRIN, I DISCOVERED THAT MY BILGE WAS FULL OF LIQUID WASTE FROM A ROTTEN HOLDING TANK. THE SURVEYOR SURE MISSED THIS PROBLEM (AND MANY OTHERS) WHEN I PURCHASED THE BOAT IN THE PREVIOUS NOVEMBER. WHY A VERY WELL DESIGNED BOAT WOULD END UP WITH AN ALUMINIUM HOLDING TANK BUILT INTO THE SHOWER SEAT, WHEN SALT WATER WOULD BE USED TO FLUSH AND HOLD WASTE IS BEYOND ME. IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG FOR SALT WATER SITTING IN AN ALUMINIUM HOLDING TANK TO TURN IT INTO CHEESECLOTH. ANYWAY, HERE ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN, THERE'S NO CHOICE BUT TO HAVE A PROPER WORKING HOLDING TANK SYSTEM OR FACE DOING HARD TIME. WHAT TO DO ? I SPOKE WITH THE PROPRIATOR OF MY MARINA HERE IN MALLETTS BAY, "THE MOORINGS", AND WE DECIDED THAT THE TANK COULD BE REMOVED, USED AS A PATTERN TO MAKE A REPLACEMENT STAINLESS STEEL TANK. THEN WE WOULD INSTALL THE NEW S/S TANK IN PLACE OF THE OLD ONE IN THE SHOWER SEAT. THIS WAS DONE BY THE HEAD MAINTENANCE/FIBERGLASS REPAIR GUY, NOW MAINTENANCE MANAGER, KEN, USING A SAWS-ALL TYPE SAW. WHEN HE HAD THE SHOWER SEAT DISMANTLED, THE HEAD/SHOWER LOOKED LIKE A DISASTER AREA. HOWEVER, I KEPT FAITH IN THE PROJECT AND HAD A LOCAL SHEET METAL SHOP MAKE ME A NEW S/S TANK WHICH PRETTY CLOSELY LOOKED LIKE THE OLD ONE, (BUT WITHOUT THE CHEESECLOTH BOTTOM). THIS SHOP MAKES S/S TANKS FOR THE LOCAL FIRE DEPTS TRUCKS, AND FOR THE BULK MILK TANKS THE DAIRY FARMERS USE TO STORE THEIR MILK IN BETWEEN PICK-UPS BY THE CREAMERIES/CHEESE FACTORIES TRUCKS. KEN RE-INSTALLED THE NEW TANK AND PUT THE SHOWER BACK TOGETHER. I DON'T THINK ANYONE WHO DOESN'T KNOW EXACTLY WHERE THE SEAMS ARE THAT KEN HAD TO MAKE TO GET THE OLD TANK OUT, COULD TELL THAT IT HAD BEEN ALL DISMANTLED. KEN AND COMPANY DID A GREAT JOB. I'M TAKING THE TIME TO TELL YOU THIS SO THAT YOU'LL KNOW THAT YOU HAVE AN ADDITIONAL OPTION IN REPLACING YOUR HOLDING TANK. THIS, IN MY ESTIMATION, IS THE BEST OPTION OF ANY YOU MIGHT COME UP WITH. IT CAN BE DONE !!! AND, CAN LOOK LIKE IT ORIGINALLY DID. SHOULD YOU WANT TO SPEAK WITH KEN AT THE MOORINGS MARINA, THEIR PHONE NO. IS: (802) 862-1407 MERRILL MASSE PERSISTENCE H37C MALLETTS BAY LAKE CHAMPLAIN, VT.
THE FIRST SUMMER I OWNED MY H37C PERSISTENCE, I DISCOVERED A VERY STRONG FOUL ODOR WHEN I OPENED THE COMPANIONWAY ON A HOT (90+ DEGREE)DAY. MUCH TO MY CHAGRIN, I DISCOVERED THAT MY BILGE WAS FULL OF LIQUID WASTE FROM A ROTTEN HOLDING TANK. THE SURVEYOR SURE MISSED THIS PROBLEM (AND MANY OTHERS) WHEN I PURCHASED THE BOAT IN THE PREVIOUS NOVEMBER. WHY A VERY WELL DESIGNED BOAT WOULD END UP WITH AN ALUMINIUM HOLDING TANK BUILT INTO THE SHOWER SEAT, WHEN SALT WATER WOULD BE USED TO FLUSH AND HOLD WASTE IS BEYOND ME. IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG FOR SALT WATER SITTING IN AN ALUMINIUM HOLDING TANK TO TURN IT INTO CHEESECLOTH. ANYWAY, HERE ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN, THERE'S NO CHOICE BUT TO HAVE A PROPER WORKING HOLDING TANK SYSTEM OR FACE DOING HARD TIME. WHAT TO DO ? I SPOKE WITH THE PROPRIATOR OF MY MARINA HERE IN MALLETTS BAY, "THE MOORINGS", AND WE DECIDED THAT THE TANK COULD BE REMOVED, USED AS A PATTERN TO MAKE A REPLACEMENT STAINLESS STEEL TANK. THEN WE WOULD INSTALL THE NEW S/S TANK IN PLACE OF THE OLD ONE IN THE SHOWER SEAT. THIS WAS DONE BY THE HEAD MAINTENANCE/FIBERGLASS REPAIR GUY, NOW MAINTENANCE MANAGER, KEN, USING A SAWS-ALL TYPE SAW. WHEN HE HAD THE SHOWER SEAT DISMANTLED, THE HEAD/SHOWER LOOKED LIKE A DISASTER AREA. HOWEVER, I KEPT FAITH IN THE PROJECT AND HAD A LOCAL SHEET METAL SHOP MAKE ME A NEW S/S TANK WHICH PRETTY CLOSELY LOOKED LIKE THE OLD ONE, (BUT WITHOUT THE CHEESECLOTH BOTTOM). THIS SHOP MAKES S/S TANKS FOR THE LOCAL FIRE DEPTS TRUCKS, AND FOR THE BULK MILK TANKS THE DAIRY FARMERS USE TO STORE THEIR MILK IN BETWEEN PICK-UPS BY THE CREAMERIES/CHEESE FACTORIES TRUCKS. KEN RE-INSTALLED THE NEW TANK AND PUT THE SHOWER BACK TOGETHER. I DON'T THINK ANYONE WHO DOESN'T KNOW EXACTLY WHERE THE SEAMS ARE THAT KEN HAD TO MAKE TO GET THE OLD TANK OUT, COULD TELL THAT IT HAD BEEN ALL DISMANTLED. KEN AND COMPANY DID A GREAT JOB. I'M TAKING THE TIME TO TELL YOU THIS SO THAT YOU'LL KNOW THAT YOU HAVE AN ADDITIONAL OPTION IN REPLACING YOUR HOLDING TANK. THIS, IN MY ESTIMATION, IS THE BEST OPTION OF ANY YOU MIGHT COME UP WITH. IT CAN BE DONE !!! AND, CAN LOOK LIKE IT ORIGINALLY DID. SHOULD YOU WANT TO SPEAK WITH KEN AT THE MOORINGS MARINA, THEIR PHONE NO. IS: (802) 862-1407 MERRILL MASSE PERSISTENCE H37C MALLETTS BAY LAKE CHAMPLAIN, VT.
Merrill...
First of all, please turn OFF your caps lock. Using all caps online is SHOUTING...plus it's hard as hell to read! I cannot support your recommended steel holding tank replacement. It's fine for water and milk, but water and milk are not corrosive. Urine, otoh, is SO corrosive that it makes salt look as benign as milk or water by comparison. You went to a great deal of trouble and expect, but unfortunately NO metal is recommended for sewage holding...typically--regardless of whether the tank is aluminum the finest quality stainless steel, you can expect urine to to eat through a weld at a seam or fitting within 2-5 years. The only advantage to using steel is that typically takes longer to eat through the sheet metal--turn the tank into a collander--than it takes to eat through aluminum. But eventually it will. Hopefully you'll have sold the boat by then and it will be someone else's problem. The ONLY material recommended for sewage holding is extra thick-walled (min 3/8") seamless rotationally molded polyethylene. Alternatively, if you cannot find a tank to fit the space (and btw, where the boat builder put it may not be the best location for it), a welded thick-walled poly tank. Sorry to be the bearer of bad new for you, but my objective is to prevent others from making a the same costly mistake.
First of all, please turn OFF your caps lock. Using all caps online is SHOUTING...plus it's hard as hell to read! I cannot support your recommended steel holding tank replacement. It's fine for water and milk, but water and milk are not corrosive. Urine, otoh, is SO corrosive that it makes salt look as benign as milk or water by comparison. You went to a great deal of trouble and expect, but unfortunately NO metal is recommended for sewage holding...typically--regardless of whether the tank is aluminum the finest quality stainless steel, you can expect urine to to eat through a weld at a seam or fitting within 2-5 years. The only advantage to using steel is that typically takes longer to eat through the sheet metal--turn the tank into a collander--than it takes to eat through aluminum. But eventually it will. Hopefully you'll have sold the boat by then and it will be someone else's problem. The ONLY material recommended for sewage holding is extra thick-walled (min 3/8") seamless rotationally molded polyethylene. Alternatively, if you cannot find a tank to fit the space (and btw, where the boat builder put it may not be the best location for it), a welded thick-walled poly tank. Sorry to be the bearer of bad new for you, but my objective is to prevent others from making a the same costly mistake.
Hatch under seat no problem.
Hi Ken, just saw that exact thing last week while visiting Amy and Tom Hadoulias on Merritt Island. Tom installed a Raritan LectraSan under the starboard v-berth. He uses the space under the seat for storage. Since they can pump overboard a tank is not required. My H37C tank is a 28 gallon bladder hanging from the forward bulkhead in the center of the v-berth. We need larger tanks on the Great Lakes because we can NEVER pump overboard. A custom f/g tank there or under the starboard v-berth would be preferable but then you have to make the top access much larger. I will replace the bladder but still have not decided how. Probably at least a 35 gal. tank in the center of the v-berth. Then I will have room on the starboard side to reinstall the y-valve and overboard pump when we move to the big water.
Hi Ken, just saw that exact thing last week while visiting Amy and Tom Hadoulias on Merritt Island. Tom installed a Raritan LectraSan under the starboard v-berth. He uses the space under the seat for storage. Since they can pump overboard a tank is not required. My H37C tank is a 28 gallon bladder hanging from the forward bulkhead in the center of the v-berth. We need larger tanks on the Great Lakes because we can NEVER pump overboard. A custom f/g tank there or under the starboard v-berth would be preferable but then you have to make the top access much larger. I will replace the bladder but still have not decided how. Probably at least a 35 gal. tank in the center of the v-berth. Then I will have room on the starboard side to reinstall the y-valve and overboard pump when we move to the big water.
Reply to Peggie
Peggie, Last year when I did all of the modifications and posted a message on the "big boats" page you told me about spraying the KO in the compartment. Wonderful stuff that KO. I wouldn't use anything else. I have sprayed several times now and always leave all compartments open when I leave the boat to help slow down mildew. I have suspected the hoses for a while now but the basic coward in me comes out when contemplating removing and replacing. Oh well. Time to bite the bullet, put on a mask, and go for it. Thanks for the advise and thanks (I think) for the incentive to tackle it over the winter. At least it shouldn't be quite as bad in the cool of winter. Frank SV *Stargazer
Peggie, Last year when I did all of the modifications and posted a message on the "big boats" page you told me about spraying the KO in the compartment. Wonderful stuff that KO. I wouldn't use anything else. I have sprayed several times now and always leave all compartments open when I leave the boat to help slow down mildew. I have suspected the hoses for a while now but the basic coward in me comes out when contemplating removing and replacing. Oh well. Time to bite the bullet, put on a mask, and go for it. Thanks for the advise and thanks (I think) for the incentive to tackle it over the winter. At least it shouldn't be quite as bad in the cool of winter. Frank SV *Stargazer
Holding Tank H37 Cutter
Ken: Just a short note to confirm that the original location of the holding tank was under the shower seat. I frankly hate to think about taking one out of that location. Have a friend who lives in Creastview, Fl who removed his this summer and installed one under the V berth also. I'm not sure what you mean when you say has anyone installed a hatch in the port side, of what??? I currently own a 80 model cutter. Will help if I can. Regards Richard P.S. my e-mail address is sailrjc@gnt.net.
Ken: Just a short note to confirm that the original location of the holding tank was under the shower seat. I frankly hate to think about taking one out of that location. Have a friend who lives in Creastview, Fl who removed his this summer and installed one under the V berth also. I'm not sure what you mean when you say has anyone installed a hatch in the port side, of what??? I currently own a 80 model cutter. Will help if I can. Regards Richard P.S. my e-mail address is sailrjc@gnt.net.
Peggie
First of all, please excuse my use of upper case previously. My intent was not to shout. I guess I was just being lazy. again, my apologies. Thanks for the info on poly tanks over metal tanks. I'm sure it will come in handy. Bad news learned early is better than bad news learned late. However, now that I am aware of a possible future leaky tank, I would not sell the boat to an unsuspecting buyer without telling him/her about it. Anyway, I like this H37C design so much that I don't anticipate selling it. My widow will have to deal with it. But, my main point to Ken DeLacy was that he didn't need to abandon using the shower seat as the location of the holding tank. Also, now that the place under the shower seat is accessable, I think even I could replace the s/s tank with a welded thick walled poly tank. I'm sure there aren't may places one could put a rotationally molded poly tank below deck on most medium sized cruizers. So the great deal of trouble and expense you mentioned in your curt message is not all lost. I didn't intend to step on anyones turf or toes in my message to Ken. I just tried to share with him my expierence in this matter. So if I did that, again I am sorry. Good sailing, Merrill
First of all, please excuse my use of upper case previously. My intent was not to shout. I guess I was just being lazy. again, my apologies. Thanks for the info on poly tanks over metal tanks. I'm sure it will come in handy. Bad news learned early is better than bad news learned late. However, now that I am aware of a possible future leaky tank, I would not sell the boat to an unsuspecting buyer without telling him/her about it. Anyway, I like this H37C design so much that I don't anticipate selling it. My widow will have to deal with it. But, my main point to Ken DeLacy was that he didn't need to abandon using the shower seat as the location of the holding tank. Also, now that the place under the shower seat is accessable, I think even I could replace the s/s tank with a welded thick walled poly tank. I'm sure there aren't may places one could put a rotationally molded poly tank below deck on most medium sized cruizers. So the great deal of trouble and expense you mentioned in your curt message is not all lost. I didn't intend to step on anyones turf or toes in my message to Ken. I just tried to share with him my expierence in this matter. So if I did that, again I am sorry. Good sailing, Merrill
Merrill, first of all...
As I said just a day or so ago, there just is no diplomatic way to tell someone that the advice they're offering to others isn't a good idea. About all I can do is tell you why it isn't, and I hate it when that's all I can do--especially when I know all the mistakes could have been avoided by asking a few questions first. There's at least one mfr of rotomolded tanks (Ronco Plastics) who offers more than 400 different shapes and sizes, at least 100 of which are non-rectangular...and they make OEM tanks for Catalina--some of which aren't shown in their catalog because they can only sell 'em as identical replacements to Catalina owners. There are a couple of other mfrs who also make a whole lot more shapes and sizes than the few rectangular tanks available from West Marine, B/US et al. And they'll fit in more places on 26-35' sailboats, including Hunters, than you think. The v-berth--unless it's too far from the toilet--is a MUCH better location for a holding tank than the shower seat (reasons explained in detail in an article called "Odor Control in Holding Tanks" in the Head Mistress Reference Library). People often have a hard time "coloring outside the lines"...the original tank is in a particular location, therefore the only thing they look for when they need a replacement tank is one that will fit in that location. However, somebody had already moved the tank on Ken's boat to a much better location and both the knowledge that a tank in the v-berth will work and his idea of converting the original location to storage are good ones. hat others who are finding that their metal tanks are failing can also use. So, it's not as hard or expensive as you think to find rotomolded tanks that either will fit the same location...and it's often a lot less expensive as well as a better solution to find a new--improved--location for a tank than it is to insist on doing whatever it takes to get an identical replacement for a particular location just because that's where the old tank was. P.S. I had to be told to turn off my cap locks when I first started posting online too...
As I said just a day or so ago, there just is no diplomatic way to tell someone that the advice they're offering to others isn't a good idea. About all I can do is tell you why it isn't, and I hate it when that's all I can do--especially when I know all the mistakes could have been avoided by asking a few questions first. There's at least one mfr of rotomolded tanks (Ronco Plastics) who offers more than 400 different shapes and sizes, at least 100 of which are non-rectangular...and they make OEM tanks for Catalina--some of which aren't shown in their catalog because they can only sell 'em as identical replacements to Catalina owners. There are a couple of other mfrs who also make a whole lot more shapes and sizes than the few rectangular tanks available from West Marine, B/US et al. And they'll fit in more places on 26-35' sailboats, including Hunters, than you think. The v-berth--unless it's too far from the toilet--is a MUCH better location for a holding tank than the shower seat (reasons explained in detail in an article called "Odor Control in Holding Tanks" in the Head Mistress Reference Library). People often have a hard time "coloring outside the lines"...the original tank is in a particular location, therefore the only thing they look for when they need a replacement tank is one that will fit in that location. However, somebody had already moved the tank on Ken's boat to a much better location and both the knowledge that a tank in the v-berth will work and his idea of converting the original location to storage are good ones. hat others who are finding that their metal tanks are failing can also use. So, it's not as hard or expensive as you think to find rotomolded tanks that either will fit the same location...and it's often a lot less expensive as well as a better solution to find a new--improved--location for a tank than it is to insist on doing whatever it takes to get an identical replacement for a particular location just because that's where the old tank was. P.S. I had to be told to turn off my cap locks when I first started posting online too...
If the v-berth is not suitable for a holding tank
Peggie: I've just bought a 1983 Hunter 54, which was originally equipped with twin 25 gal tanks mounted under the salon sole (one port, one stbd). The previous owner removed them, so the boat now has none. This is my very first project, to install new tanks. Despite the size of this boat, there aren't a lot of options, and the v-berth isn't one of them, because it's a stand-up cabin with separate berths port & stbd. However, forward of the cabin bulkhead is a sail locker and the well for the anchor chain. The distance from the forward head to the sail locker is about 12 ft, and from the aft head, about 35 ft. I'm not sure what height a 50 gal tank would be if squeezed into this narrow space. The only other space (besides the original location) is a mechanical area under the stbd side of the cockpit sole, where the original generator was located (I'm told). Its distance to the two heads would be slightly more than the sail locker, about 15 and 40 ft. I would like to put the tanks back in the original location, and I understand that to accomplish the ventilation you recommend, these will require 1.5" diameter vent lines. That's the approach I'm working on right now. I'm also going to try for dual vents to each tank (one to port & one to stbd for each tank), per your recommendation in situations where the vent line isn't a short, horizontal shot to the vent. Those of us who regularly read these discussions are well aware of your strong preference for putting tanks below the v-berth, but since that's not always possible or practical, can you address these other situations? In my case, won't the original tank location work if each tank is vented by dual 1.5" vent lines run about 15 ft. forward (ahead of the beam)? Eric Lorgus s/v Impulse 83H54
Peggie: I've just bought a 1983 Hunter 54, which was originally equipped with twin 25 gal tanks mounted under the salon sole (one port, one stbd). The previous owner removed them, so the boat now has none. This is my very first project, to install new tanks. Despite the size of this boat, there aren't a lot of options, and the v-berth isn't one of them, because it's a stand-up cabin with separate berths port & stbd. However, forward of the cabin bulkhead is a sail locker and the well for the anchor chain. The distance from the forward head to the sail locker is about 12 ft, and from the aft head, about 35 ft. I'm not sure what height a 50 gal tank would be if squeezed into this narrow space. The only other space (besides the original location) is a mechanical area under the stbd side of the cockpit sole, where the original generator was located (I'm told). Its distance to the two heads would be slightly more than the sail locker, about 15 and 40 ft. I would like to put the tanks back in the original location, and I understand that to accomplish the ventilation you recommend, these will require 1.5" diameter vent lines. That's the approach I'm working on right now. I'm also going to try for dual vents to each tank (one to port & one to stbd for each tank), per your recommendation in situations where the vent line isn't a short, horizontal shot to the vent. Those of us who regularly read these discussions are well aware of your strong preference for putting tanks below the v-berth, but since that's not always possible or practical, can you address these other situations? In my case, won't the original tank location work if each tank is vented by dual 1.5" vent lines run about 15 ft. forward (ahead of the beam)? Eric Lorgus s/v Impulse 83H54
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