I recently purchased a 1997 Beneteau 461. The holding tank deck opening is frozen shut. I have tried penetrating oil, pounding and force for 3 days to no avail. Please advise ! Thank you.
Holding tank deck opening
- Thread starter mc2sail
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The simple solution:
Replace the deck pumpout fitting. It's a bit more labor intensive, but will only cost you about $25 at most.
Replace the deck pumpout fitting. It's a bit more labor intensive, but will only cost you about $25 at most.
If you REMOVE it from the boat; then, you can heat it with a torch, etc. Otherwise .... there is methane and other 'boom' gases on the 'other side' of that jammed deck nozzle !!!!!!
Do NOT heat this deck nozzle while its connected to the holding tank .... or you and your boat can go BOOOOOM !!!!!! ... but not to worry as if the holding tank is full, the brown-geyser that comes out right after the explosion should tend to put the flames out.
Get a bigger 'wrench' ;-)
Do NOT heat this deck nozzle while its connected to the holding tank .... or you and your boat can go BOOOOOM !!!!!! ... but not to worry as if the holding tank is full, the brown-geyser that comes out right after the explosion should tend to put the flames out.
Get a bigger 'wrench' ;-)
I've bent or broke every wrench made to fit the "slot" or "dimples" on those deck caps. Somehow the caps weld themselves in place in a matter of hours. In one case I was able to remove the cap by breaking it in pieces with a chisel, I was trying to loosen and it broke instead. You may still have to replace the whole thing as suggested by Peggy because there are a couple different threads used and it seems the one you need is never available. I REALLY like the caps that are removed with a winch handle.
When you either get it open, or replaced with a new one, use a wee bit of "Never Sieze" on the threads to prevent a re-occurrance of the galling you have now.
Ray, I have used "shock therapy" in cases like these. Buy a cheap sacrificial screwdriver with a round shaft that is slightly smaller diameter than the holes on the deck cap. Cut/grind off the end of the screwdriver and round the tip with a file or a grinder. Then, take a ballpeen hammer and try tapping each hole sequentially with the screwdriver in the hole. If you've used a penetrant, the calcification/corrosion should be soft enough to break and turn the cap. Don't throw away your "work of art" as it will undoubtedly be useful in another project. A good dose of lubricant should be used on both threaded surfaces in the future. Good luck, Ron
I would, despite objections, heat it up before making the last attempt. Earlier admonitions about explosions not withstanding, I'm not talking about getting the fitting red hot. Heat it up a bit, tap firmly on the cover with a hammer, and use a long lever to try to open her up. If that fails, go the Peggy option.
I vote for not using heat. You are dealing with a metal fitting (I assume?) bedded in a FRP sandwich construction of glass reinforced plastic and some type of wood. The plastic won't like temperatures over about 160 degrees and the wood certainly won't either. the bond between the two may not care for it and the bedding compound for the fitting may be a concern. A propoane torch will transfer a lot of heat through the metal very quickly. Removing it takes a few minutes as Peggy suggested. Then either salvage it on a workbench or replace it.
I'm wondering ... 'whose holding tank cap freezes in place and how do they avoid pumping out that long?' and then I saw that the boat is in BVI ...
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