Hi One of the issues that came up on my survey, was that the holding tank was floating free under the V-berth. No hold downs were present, other than a couple of bungee cords that had long since broken. As I needed to free up y-valves that had frozen in place (soaked in vinegar overnight) and replace all the 1-1/2" sanitation hose. I'd thought might as well build a support too. I used 1/2" marine plywood along with a couple pieces teak I had lying around. After cutting the plywood to shape and fitting it to tank and hull, I epoxied it in place, keeping a gap against the hull to avoid any hard spots. I let it all cure overnight, and gave everything a fresh coat of paint the next day. The tank now sits in the support with about a < 1/4" of play. Of interest as I was cleaning out the area, I located a large area below the teak flooring in the V-berth of what looks like pour-rock or some other cement product. I guess it was put in place by the builders to balance the boat? Cheers Larry
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Nice installation..,..Only one criticism
All your hose connections have only one hose hose clamp...they should be double clamped, with the screws on the opposite sides of the hose.
All your hose connections have only one hose hose clamp...they should be double clamped, with the screws on the opposite sides of the hose.
Yes, there's more to do.
Thanks Peggy, I had actually run out of clamps at the time, before I launch I'll be going back to double up the clamps. I guess I should have titled it "All but complete". Cheers Larry
Thanks Peggy, I had actually run out of clamps at the time, before I launch I'll be going back to double up the clamps. I guess I should have titled it "All but complete". Cheers Larry
concrete in the bow under the floor
glad you found that concrete too. I took the floor up and took out the concrete it weighted 300lbs. It made my 30T broach easily gave me constant weatherhelm so with no Auto pilot it was scary to leave the wheel and unthinkable running down wind. Even now the boat is still out of balance but I am going to remedy that with extra gear. If your boats bow sits low in the water like mine did the stern up 5in and the bow down 5in. I had bilge water sit forward under the shower which started the cabin/shower bulkhead to start to rot. I had black rain water mildew stripes running down and out the toerail at the companionway areas of the hull because the rain water did not make it to the stern, making the sides of the boat look like a zebra. So cleaning it was a constant chore not.
glad you found that concrete too. I took the floor up and took out the concrete it weighted 300lbs. It made my 30T broach easily gave me constant weatherhelm so with no Auto pilot it was scary to leave the wheel and unthinkable running down wind. Even now the boat is still out of balance but I am going to remedy that with extra gear. If your boats bow sits low in the water like mine did the stern up 5in and the bow down 5in. I had bilge water sit forward under the shower which started the cabin/shower bulkhead to start to rot. I had black rain water mildew stripes running down and out the toerail at the companionway areas of the hull because the rain water did not make it to the stern, making the sides of the boat look like a zebra. So cleaning it was a constant chore not.
concrete
Thank you for the concrete removal info. I just found my concrete block and was considering removing it, now I guess it will stay where it is. I would still like to re-balance the boat to eliminate the bilge water problems. Do you have any other suggestions? Ralph
Thank you for the concrete removal info. I just found my concrete block and was considering removing it, now I guess it will stay where it is. I would still like to re-balance the boat to eliminate the bilge water problems. Do you have any other suggestions? Ralph
Question about discharge thru-hull
I have to say that from the pictures the installation is quite good. I have a question about the type and location of the thru-hull fitting that would allow the holding tank to be pumped over the side. I do quite a bit of sailing in the Bay here that borders the Atlantic and will not always be close to a pump out station. I have a design for a holding tank that allows for a pump out and a direct discharge with the help of a Y-valve. Should the fitting be stainless, brass or plastic and should the thru-hull be above the water line? Thanks, Peter
I have to say that from the pictures the installation is quite good. I have a question about the type and location of the thru-hull fitting that would allow the holding tank to be pumped over the side. I do quite a bit of sailing in the Bay here that borders the Atlantic and will not always be close to a pump out station. I have a design for a holding tank that allows for a pump out and a direct discharge with the help of a Y-valve. Should the fitting be stainless, brass or plastic and should the thru-hull be above the water line? Thanks, Peter
Thru Hull Holding tank
Hi Peter, My system does have a Y Valve to redirect waste flow overboard rather than through the pump out fitting located in the anchor locker at the bow. By turning the valve in the correct direction and then using the gusher pump it's fairly easy to pump out the tank in a couple of minutes, provided of course you are offshore. I think choice of materials for thru hulls is up to the owner. The 2 1/2" waste thru hull on my boat is Marelon, and is located under the port berth well below the waterline, while the pump out fitting is bronze. Marelon from what I have read, is a very good material for both above and below the waterline. I replaced all of my thru hulls using both types. Perhaps more important than which material to choose, is to make sure you have good backing plates for the thru hulls. My boat had untreated marine ply at most thru hull locations, and caused slow leaking. I used new marine ply coated with epoxy and then using thickened epoxy bonded it to the fiberglass hull. Hope this has been helpfull. Cheers Larry
Hi Peter, My system does have a Y Valve to redirect waste flow overboard rather than through the pump out fitting located in the anchor locker at the bow. By turning the valve in the correct direction and then using the gusher pump it's fairly easy to pump out the tank in a couple of minutes, provided of course you are offshore. I think choice of materials for thru hulls is up to the owner. The 2 1/2" waste thru hull on my boat is Marelon, and is located under the port berth well below the waterline, while the pump out fitting is bronze. Marelon from what I have read, is a very good material for both above and below the waterline. I replaced all of my thru hulls using both types. Perhaps more important than which material to choose, is to make sure you have good backing plates for the thru hulls. My boat had untreated marine ply at most thru hull locations, and caused slow leaking. I used new marine ply coated with epoxy and then using thickened epoxy bonded it to the fiberglass hull. Hope this has been helpfull. Cheers Larry
Holding tank capacity
Hi Larry, I am in the process of installing a new holding tank in my S299. The one I am considering is 13 gal (24" x 14" x 10")but I am not completely certain that it will fit. Can you tell me the capacity and dimensions of the tank shown in your picture? Thanks, Peter
Hi Larry, I am in the process of installing a new holding tank in my S299. The one I am considering is 13 gal (24" x 14" x 10")but I am not completely certain that it will fit. Can you tell me the capacity and dimensions of the tank shown in your picture? Thanks, Peter
Dimensions
Hi Peter, I gave a quick look at my holding tank last night after a couple hours sanding the bottom. It's made by "Mansfield" and it is 14" wide, port to starboard, 17" long, bow to stern and about 18" deep. I've no idea what the capacity is. Also from the recent post on vented loops, I've learned that my raw water intake to the head is not vented properly. My system had the loop between the sea cock and the head pump. As a result I was pumping air along with water into the bowl. Thanks to Peggy's post, I see the correct position for the loop is between the pump and bowl. Good Luck, Larry
Hi Peter, I gave a quick look at my holding tank last night after a couple hours sanding the bottom. It's made by "Mansfield" and it is 14" wide, port to starboard, 17" long, bow to stern and about 18" deep. I've no idea what the capacity is. Also from the recent post on vented loops, I've learned that my raw water intake to the head is not vented properly. My system had the loop between the sea cock and the head pump. As a result I was pumping air along with water into the bowl. Thanks to Peggy's post, I see the correct position for the loop is between the pump and bowl. Good Luck, Larry
Holding Tank Dimensions/Capacity
LARRY; FYI- I have calulated your holding tank volume to be approx. 15 gals. Math: [1]14"x17"x18"=4284cu.in's. [2] 4284ci x .016 =68.5 liters [3] 68.5L / 4.546 = 15.068 ****slow morning here at my boatshop![too cold for epoxy work today]**** Cheers- CaptHawk
LARRY; FYI- I have calulated your holding tank volume to be approx. 15 gals. Math: [1]14"x17"x18"=4284cu.in's. [2] 4284ci x .016 =68.5 liters [3] 68.5L / 4.546 = 15.068 ****slow morning here at my boatshop![too cold for epoxy work today]**** Cheers- CaptHawk
too much free time
Thanks Hawk, I'm such a slacker to have not calculated the volume. I appreciate the effort. I'd like your opinion on soft versus hard bottom paints. Along with sanding the bottom paint off this season,I've pulled both the large cabin lights (acrylic)on my 30T out. I'm in the process of drying out the core as water was getting in around the edges of the cut outs. It looks like there was no treatment to the exsposed edges when they were installed, nothing but a thin plywood laminate to hide the cut from view inside the cabin. I've removed all the loose and crumbling balsa that I can and I've been drying the area out for the past month. I plan to treat the area with CPES, then fill the area with WestSystem Epoxy/filler. Originally, the acrylic lights were attached with wood screws that only went into the balsa core from the face of the acrlyic light. After my repair, I'll through bolt them right to to the inside, by then I'll have a solid epoxy/filler rim right around the openings. Any thoughts on this repair, I was thinking you may have done something similiar over the years. Cheers Larry
Thanks Hawk, I'm such a slacker to have not calculated the volume. I appreciate the effort. I'd like your opinion on soft versus hard bottom paints. Along with sanding the bottom paint off this season,I've pulled both the large cabin lights (acrylic)on my 30T out. I'm in the process of drying out the core as water was getting in around the edges of the cut outs. It looks like there was no treatment to the exsposed edges when they were installed, nothing but a thin plywood laminate to hide the cut from view inside the cabin. I've removed all the loose and crumbling balsa that I can and I've been drying the area out for the past month. I plan to treat the area with CPES, then fill the area with WestSystem Epoxy/filler. Originally, the acrylic lights were attached with wood screws that only went into the balsa core from the face of the acrlyic light. After my repair, I'll through bolt them right to to the inside, by then I'll have a solid epoxy/filler rim right around the openings. Any thoughts on this repair, I was thinking you may have done something similiar over the years. Cheers Larry
Opening Port Repair
Larry; Sounds like a good plan to me....I might suggest the use of System 3 Gel Magic [in a tube] for the opening edges where balsa was removed. I am a big fan of WEST Epoxy except I have found that this System 3 stuff is more user friendly. No mixing[Gel Magic only]!!AND it can be use on the overhead without sage or running. It is a tad bit expensive[$18.00/tube], however for the few places I have used it the ease of use was the key factor. It is available from Jamestown Distributors.com and I think??? Defender carries it as well. I got extra mixing tips so that I could reuse any tube which was not empty. I was impressed with how simple it was...just like using a tube of 5200...but it is a 2 part epoxy that mixes in the special applicator tip. If you only use 1/2 a tube, you can toss the used tip....seal the cartridge and reuse with a fresh tip at a later time. It worked very well and I see other areas that I will use it on. Beats the heck out of all that mixing of powders with the WEST system. No fuss-no muss with the System 3....just point and squeeze. Cheers- CaptHawk
Larry; Sounds like a good plan to me....I might suggest the use of System 3 Gel Magic [in a tube] for the opening edges where balsa was removed. I am a big fan of WEST Epoxy except I have found that this System 3 stuff is more user friendly. No mixing[Gel Magic only]!!AND it can be use on the overhead without sage or running. It is a tad bit expensive[$18.00/tube], however for the few places I have used it the ease of use was the key factor. It is available from Jamestown Distributors.com and I think??? Defender carries it as well. I got extra mixing tips so that I could reuse any tube which was not empty. I was impressed with how simple it was...just like using a tube of 5200...but it is a 2 part epoxy that mixes in the special applicator tip. If you only use 1/2 a tube, you can toss the used tip....seal the cartridge and reuse with a fresh tip at a later time. It worked very well and I see other areas that I will use it on. Beats the heck out of all that mixing of powders with the WEST system. No fuss-no muss with the System 3....just point and squeeze. Cheers- CaptHawk
Check your Balance
Hold that thought! Check how level the boat is with a full crew on board. It may look bow-down alongside the dock, but be perfectly level when sailing. That's what really counts!
Hold that thought! Check how level the boat is with a full crew on board. It may look bow-down alongside the dock, but be perfectly level when sailing. That's what really counts!
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