I have a 110 V generator on my 356 and the standard 110 V battery charger that came with the boat that only puts out 10 amps per bank, and it takes forever to even get the batteries to 80% charge. I would like to buy an AC battery charger that puts out 100 amps or so, so that I can charge my batteries in 1 hour. I do not need an inverter as I have the generator for that. Does anyone know of such high current 110 Volt AC chargers, and how much would they cost? Thank you Ivan Bekey Solomons, MD H356 #157
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high amps chargers
Defender Marine Supply has several marine high amp chargers in the catalog or on there on line store- very high priced ! A Charles 120 v 100 amp charger is over $1200. There are several others of different sizes and prices- check link below. I would think that any good boat store or even your marina store would be able to get you (order you) what ever you wanted.
Defender Marine Supply has several marine high amp chargers in the catalog or on there on line store- very high priced ! A Charles 120 v 100 amp charger is over $1200. There are several others of different sizes and prices- check link below. I would think that any good boat store or even your marina store would be able to get you (order you) what ever you wanted.
Why?
Ivan: Why do you need to recharge your batteries that quick? Are you making a pit stop? How large of a battery bank are you dealing with? I understand that you want more than 10 amps but you can only pour so much power to the batteries regardless of how large the charger is. Take a look at the Xantrex web site. They have information on different chargers based on the size of battery bank. www.xantrex.com
Ivan: Why do you need to recharge your batteries that quick? Are you making a pit stop? How large of a battery bank are you dealing with? I understand that you want more than 10 amps but you can only pour so much power to the batteries regardless of how large the charger is. Take a look at the Xantrex web site. They have information on different chargers based on the size of battery bank. www.xantrex.com
Too Much, Too Fast
If you continually charge your batteries at a fast rate, you will surely shorten their life. But if you have a smart charger that you leave on when dockside, that will keep your batteries fully charged for when you need them. That, combined with a higher output alternator, will keep an ample charge on your batteries. What do you have that draws down the batteries so much? Maybe then, there will be justification for such a large investment.
If you continually charge your batteries at a fast rate, you will surely shorten their life. But if you have a smart charger that you leave on when dockside, that will keep your batteries fully charged for when you need them. That, combined with a higher output alternator, will keep an ample charge on your batteries. What do you have that draws down the batteries so much? Maybe then, there will be justification for such a large investment.
Hi Ivan, in addition to checking with Xantrex,...
as Steve suggested, check with store4power.com, a Xantrex subsidiary. They sell factory certified and warranted refurbished units. I just purchased and installed a Freedom 25-12 charger/inverter. Looked brand new to me, and at a very good price compared to new. Terry
as Steve suggested, check with store4power.com, a Xantrex subsidiary. They sell factory certified and warranted refurbished units. I just purchased and installed a Freedom 25-12 charger/inverter. Looked brand new to me, and at a very good price compared to new. Terry
Big Inverters - Watch Out!
A wiring system is like links in a chain - an anchor chain. The weakest one can ruin the system. When you plan to install a larger inverter/charger than what came with the boat you need to check all along the system to verify that the components (links) are capable and that they are rated to handle the increased current. For example, the buss bar for the common ground might have 3/8" studs but be rated at only 30 amps. The selector switch might not be rated for the amperage it might encounter. Conductors - all need to be checked for ampacity and the connectors need to be checked for corrosion and proper crimping. Note that conductors that travel through the engine room are required to be larger due to higher temperatures. Do the batteries have proper ventillation? Are they in a proper enclosure separated from any spark producing device? I can guarentee you that 100amps will gas the batteries big time. It takes a little work to check thing out but it can - and should - be done. And you might be surprised what you find out. The ampacity ratings are for new and as components age their capability will decrease so this should be taken into account. Have fun with the project. Sounds interesting.
A wiring system is like links in a chain - an anchor chain. The weakest one can ruin the system. When you plan to install a larger inverter/charger than what came with the boat you need to check all along the system to verify that the components (links) are capable and that they are rated to handle the increased current. For example, the buss bar for the common ground might have 3/8" studs but be rated at only 30 amps. The selector switch might not be rated for the amperage it might encounter. Conductors - all need to be checked for ampacity and the connectors need to be checked for corrosion and proper crimping. Note that conductors that travel through the engine room are required to be larger due to higher temperatures. Do the batteries have proper ventillation? Are they in a proper enclosure separated from any spark producing device? I can guarentee you that 100amps will gas the batteries big time. It takes a little work to check thing out but it can - and should - be done. And you might be surprised what you find out. The ampacity ratings are for new and as components age their capability will decrease so this should be taken into account. Have fun with the project. Sounds interesting.
Hi John, you raise some very good points...
now a loaded question; I took Hunter Marine's advice which was to replace the original 1800 watt with a 2500 watt inverter on our P42. Eddie said that it would be kinder to the batteries than the 2000 watt inverter that I had planned on buying. He also said that that is what they now use on this size boat. Have I potentially overloaded the boat's system? Terry
now a loaded question; I took Hunter Marine's advice which was to replace the original 1800 watt with a 2500 watt inverter on our P42. Eddie said that it would be kinder to the batteries than the 2000 watt inverter that I had planned on buying. He also said that that is what they now use on this size boat. Have I potentially overloaded the boat's system? Terry
Sorry - I Can't Answer The Question Terry
With my boat I made a circuit diagram and determined loads from the attached devices. Based on these loads I computed the wire size - that's to the loads. To check one's system this is where you have to start. In the battery area I just ran 00 for everything which is oversize for both the loads (discharging) and for charging (50 amp max with a Freedom 10 and up to around 130 amps (when cold) with the 75amp Balmar alternator (rated hot) and ARSII regulator). For a grounding buss (a stout Blue Sea buss bar) I have 3/8" studs for the battery terminals. While going through and double-checking everything I found the amperage rating for the buss bar is 30 amps!! Woops! Thought I had everything checked out but something happened and this slipped by. Since the buss bar can also be used for AC I'm going to write Blue Sea and ask them if the amperage rating is for AC or DC. If not suitable for the DC current I'll need a bigger one. The master switch that came with the boat was a Perko and was undersized for the system for use as a Master. I installed a heavy duty Blue Sea selector switch that will take care of all the loads. Installed the J-something fuse (don't have the exact M/N handy) with fuse bar for the inverter per Heart recommendations - that was expensive. The inverter can really "suck" the batteries down with greater than a 1000W capability. For a short duration the inverter is capable of reaching up to 3000W. For big loads, my Microwave is only 650W (for cooking but requires more for operating, about 1000W) and we have a 600W hot plate. The water heater is also only 600W. Therefore the discharge side of the 12V system can potentially need to carry a lot of current if not managed well. I've increased the wire size and components for all significant loads in order to make a very robust system which has been really trouble-free. All the electrical loads I'm sure really appreciate the low voltage drop which I've tried to keep at under 3 percent. For a 2500W inverter the first thing I'd really check out would be the master switch and then, like my situation, a buss bar or other cable-joining device. And for big generating devices like alternators and generators those circuits need to be checked too. Note that some equipment, for example, Balmar, rates their alternators "hot" and they will put out significantly more when "cold". As a side note, the magnetic fields created from the AC circuits can raise havoc with the autohelm items (depending on where they are located). When the electromagnetic fields build or collapse as when the inverter kicks in or goes off it can affect other equipment on board. I read a lot of posts where it appears people are changing their electrical system without properly considering the capabilities of the components. The electrical codes provide minimum requirements and if these are met the electrical system should work reasonably trouble-free.
With my boat I made a circuit diagram and determined loads from the attached devices. Based on these loads I computed the wire size - that's to the loads. To check one's system this is where you have to start. In the battery area I just ran 00 for everything which is oversize for both the loads (discharging) and for charging (50 amp max with a Freedom 10 and up to around 130 amps (when cold) with the 75amp Balmar alternator (rated hot) and ARSII regulator). For a grounding buss (a stout Blue Sea buss bar) I have 3/8" studs for the battery terminals. While going through and double-checking everything I found the amperage rating for the buss bar is 30 amps!! Woops! Thought I had everything checked out but something happened and this slipped by. Since the buss bar can also be used for AC I'm going to write Blue Sea and ask them if the amperage rating is for AC or DC. If not suitable for the DC current I'll need a bigger one. The master switch that came with the boat was a Perko and was undersized for the system for use as a Master. I installed a heavy duty Blue Sea selector switch that will take care of all the loads. Installed the J-something fuse (don't have the exact M/N handy) with fuse bar for the inverter per Heart recommendations - that was expensive. The inverter can really "suck" the batteries down with greater than a 1000W capability. For a short duration the inverter is capable of reaching up to 3000W. For big loads, my Microwave is only 650W (for cooking but requires more for operating, about 1000W) and we have a 600W hot plate. The water heater is also only 600W. Therefore the discharge side of the 12V system can potentially need to carry a lot of current if not managed well. I've increased the wire size and components for all significant loads in order to make a very robust system which has been really trouble-free. All the electrical loads I'm sure really appreciate the low voltage drop which I've tried to keep at under 3 percent. For a 2500W inverter the first thing I'd really check out would be the master switch and then, like my situation, a buss bar or other cable-joining device. And for big generating devices like alternators and generators those circuits need to be checked too. Note that some equipment, for example, Balmar, rates their alternators "hot" and they will put out significantly more when "cold". As a side note, the magnetic fields created from the AC circuits can raise havoc with the autohelm items (depending on where they are located). When the electromagnetic fields build or collapse as when the inverter kicks in or goes off it can affect other equipment on board. I read a lot of posts where it appears people are changing their electrical system without properly considering the capabilities of the components. The electrical codes provide minimum requirements and if these are met the electrical system should work reasonably trouble-free.
If the goal is to reduce genset run time....
Ivan, I agree with everything the other posters have said. I think that your desire for a hi-amp charger is to minimize your generator run time. I had exactly the same desire myself. I have 4 golf cart batteries (450Ah at 12V) and the original 30a charger just didn't cut it. I purchased a 70A charger from a dealer for Todd Engineering, model PC75b(?). See their stuff at http://www.toddengineering.com/ The price was about $375 if I remember correctly. My daughter's father in law is in the electronics industry, and recommended Todd highly. I have not been disappointed. I have used it for the last 4 years with no problems. The model I purchased was the one that had an adjustable output and I use it at the max setting. It is used for BULK power replacement ONLY. However, with all my loads, running the genset morning and night for an hour each time keeps me up to snuff on battery power and hot water too. Email me for more details if you wish. I'm in the owners directory. Rich
Ivan, I agree with everything the other posters have said. I think that your desire for a hi-amp charger is to minimize your generator run time. I had exactly the same desire myself. I have 4 golf cart batteries (450Ah at 12V) and the original 30a charger just didn't cut it. I purchased a 70A charger from a dealer for Todd Engineering, model PC75b(?). See their stuff at http://www.toddengineering.com/ The price was about $375 if I remember correctly. My daughter's father in law is in the electronics industry, and recommended Todd highly. I have not been disappointed. I have used it for the last 4 years with no problems. The model I purchased was the one that had an adjustable output and I use it at the max setting. It is used for BULK power replacement ONLY. However, with all my loads, running the genset morning and night for an hour each time keeps me up to snuff on battery power and hot water too. Email me for more details if you wish. I'm in the owners directory. Rich
Thank you one and all.
Thank you one and all for your great suggestions. I now know where to look and how to approach the installation. This HOW site is a great help. Ivan
Thank you one and all for your great suggestions. I now know where to look and how to approach the installation. This HOW site is a great help. Ivan
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