Hey Gord, Do you remember...

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

Dale I

the somewhat heated exchange with Ed and others regarding check valves in the bilge line?...it still resides in the archives. The original problem with the bilge pump set-up was that the 24' of hose to the stern from the pump would fill up and then back flow when the pump shut off and cause the float/pump to cycle on and off without ever vacating all the water...hense, the need for the check valve. Here is the update. I thought that I could have it both ways--one with check and one without. I finally got the 1100 gph Rule plumbed in as a secondary 'higher level' back-up unit for the big leak, (less check valve). I left the smaller 500 gph as a first line defense at the lower level with a new spring loaded check valve to vacate the nominal rain water intrusion from the mast. (I've also replaced the crusty old Gusher manual in the cockpit and certainly hope that I have it covered by now.) The problem is that the Rule 500 hasn't enough 'umph' to overcome the checkvalve...and so I was summoned to the boat when others heard the new alarm sounding only to find about 2-gallons tripping the float switch and the pump cycling periodically against the check valve....and moving no water. Any suggestions on a dependable/inexpensive pump to remove that nominal amount of water and overpower the checkvalve and less than 5' of head? Diaphram pump? or what? PS... Gord, when are you able to sail up there?? When the wind blows the ice flow out for a while?
 
G

Gord May

Backflow Blues

Dale: I vaguely remember the discussion. The Rule 500 GPH centrifugal (submersible) pump draws <2 Amps, whereas the slightly larger 800 GPH draws <3 Amps (50% more). This is a fair measure of the pump’s ability to overcome head (check valve). I might have previously suggested that a small diaphragm pump is a better solution to the “backflow” problem, than is a centrifugal c/w check valve. I don’t generally approve of check valves in Bilge Pump discharge - but backed up /w an alarm & bigger pump (like you have) is acceptable. Early birds launch May 24 Th, and Chilly Bins haul Mid-October. The Lake & Harbour are “open”, with lots of ice still adrift. Gord
 
A

Art

Check The Flow

On my 36, I installed an in-line check valve as close to the pump as I could. It seems to work well in not allowing the volume of back-flow I was getting without it, and I am considering the same set up my bilge pump.
 
D

Dale I

Art,....not sure that I understand....

...what system you've got it currently on but the archive address below is from a previous exchange regarding this topic and may cause you to rethink your approach. As Gord had predicted, the existing check valve as installed by the previous owner DID fail within a week of this posting....in that it did load up and allow back-seepage.
 
A

Art

Understanding

No..I think I understood, back flow in the bilge pump discharge line. What I was referring to was a set up I did for my shower pump as it had the same problem. I installed an in-line check valve and it works great, so I am thinking of doing the same for the bilge.
 
G

Gord May

A caution

While a shower pump discharge failure isn't serious, a failure of the Bilge Pump discharge could be. What's good enough for the shower sump (which is "attended" in use) may not be for the bilge pump (which HAS to operate "untended"). Dale was fortunate that he had a backup pump & alarm - and even so, has some pretty high water. Gord
 
A

Art

A caution

good point...a back up without a check valve at a higher level it is.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.