In one of the three ongoing & concurrent anchor, anchoring and manual windlass/anchoring topics from the past week, Hermit Scott has been trying to deal with what he calls the "hump" on the anchor locker door shown on Maine Sail's picture of his CS36 in this Manual Windlass topic started by Bob S, Reply #13 on page of: http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=112667
Rather than try to bang around in those three topics and try to find out in which one hermit left us in suspense last, I decided to start another topic with that link.
I took the opportunity to go down to my boat for the first time since my second surgery on August 21st, some 6 1/2 weeks ago. Yeah! It floats, dry bilge, too!
On the way, I looked at a series of at least four Catalina 30s on our dock, most of the early to mid 80s design, one older and one 1991 or 92.
ALL of them had single (as opposed to dual) anchor locker doors.
NONE of them had the "hump" shown on Maine Sail's CS36 door, nor like newer C34s and C36s with the newer actual anchor rollers instead of what we call the "toy" bow rollers (like I have).
ALL of them, however, had an indentation in the deck just forward of the forward end of the anchor locker door. This "hole" was obviously meant to lead the chain from the end of the shank of the anchor into the locker.
Hermit, even if your shank is AFT of this little opening, there is NO need to build this hump, because the hump will STILL be too far forward of the aft end of your anchor's shank. If it is not, then you may want to consider that perhaps your new bow roller is too long and will/may require support down below from the underside of the new bow roller to the bow itself, like a boomkin, if you don't have any.
I wrote this in the "manual windlass" topic: Regarding that "hump" in the cover of MS's anchor locker, it comes with the boat. In fact, if you'd look at other boats, you'll find that most of the newer ones have that feature. It's useless for anything other than having the chain lead from the anchor shank into the locker. In almost every case you need to open the door to assure a fairlead of rode when deploying and for coiling up the rode when retrieving.
I'm sorry I didn't bring my camera down to the dock, but it was a looong way back to the car on my crutches.
You still need to open the door, the rode doesn't just magically wiggle out of the hole, nor does it set itself back in there.
Our anchor rode and chain rests on a simple garden hose holder inside the locker.
This is why I keep asking for a photo of your setup to help you.
So, I know it's your boat, your choice, I just don't see the need to do any fiberglass work given the configuration of the Catalina 30 bow, unless your boat is different. Tryin' to save you some work.
Of the four or five C30s on my dock, each one did it DIFFERENTLY. That's why I keep suggesting that you go look at a marina with a lot of C30s to gather ideas.
Here's how our anchor works. If my anchor shank was longer, I would simply run the small amount of chain from the aft end of the shank along the top of the deck into the "hole." As it is for us, my geometry works perfectly. Should I need a larger Rocna which would be longer, that's what I'd do. If I felt that chain on the deck would scuff or stain the fiberglass, I'd put some sacrificial material underneath it.
Rather than try to bang around in those three topics and try to find out in which one hermit left us in suspense last, I decided to start another topic with that link.
I took the opportunity to go down to my boat for the first time since my second surgery on August 21st, some 6 1/2 weeks ago. Yeah! It floats, dry bilge, too!
On the way, I looked at a series of at least four Catalina 30s on our dock, most of the early to mid 80s design, one older and one 1991 or 92.
ALL of them had single (as opposed to dual) anchor locker doors.
NONE of them had the "hump" shown on Maine Sail's CS36 door, nor like newer C34s and C36s with the newer actual anchor rollers instead of what we call the "toy" bow rollers (like I have).
ALL of them, however, had an indentation in the deck just forward of the forward end of the anchor locker door. This "hole" was obviously meant to lead the chain from the end of the shank of the anchor into the locker.
Hermit, even if your shank is AFT of this little opening, there is NO need to build this hump, because the hump will STILL be too far forward of the aft end of your anchor's shank. If it is not, then you may want to consider that perhaps your new bow roller is too long and will/may require support down below from the underside of the new bow roller to the bow itself, like a boomkin, if you don't have any.
I wrote this in the "manual windlass" topic: Regarding that "hump" in the cover of MS's anchor locker, it comes with the boat. In fact, if you'd look at other boats, you'll find that most of the newer ones have that feature. It's useless for anything other than having the chain lead from the anchor shank into the locker. In almost every case you need to open the door to assure a fairlead of rode when deploying and for coiling up the rode when retrieving.
I'm sorry I didn't bring my camera down to the dock, but it was a looong way back to the car on my crutches.
You still need to open the door, the rode doesn't just magically wiggle out of the hole, nor does it set itself back in there.
Our anchor rode and chain rests on a simple garden hose holder inside the locker.
This is why I keep asking for a photo of your setup to help you.
So, I know it's your boat, your choice, I just don't see the need to do any fiberglass work given the configuration of the Catalina 30 bow, unless your boat is different. Tryin' to save you some work.
Of the four or five C30s on my dock, each one did it DIFFERENTLY. That's why I keep suggesting that you go look at a marina with a lot of C30s to gather ideas.
Here's how our anchor works. If my anchor shank was longer, I would simply run the small amount of chain from the aft end of the shank along the top of the deck into the "hole." As it is for us, my geometry works perfectly. Should I need a larger Rocna which would be longer, that's what I'd do. If I felt that chain on the deck would scuff or stain the fiberglass, I'd put some sacrificial material underneath it.
