I need some suggestions. I have a depth finder mounted through the cabin bulkhead next to the companionway, (Catalina 27,) which needs to come out. The LED readout is toast and I want to send it in for repair. The problem is that I can only get one of the mounting screws out, (goes through a ring/plate on the back of the instrument and screws into the back of the outer ring/lip on the face.) There are three screws holding this ring in place. My fear is that the PO used 5200 to seal it when he installed it or possibly loctite on the screws. Does anyone know of something that might loosen up either product so I can get my depth finder display out for repair? Regards, Lysle
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West Marine has a product called anti bond, it is pricey , but is supposed to work on adhesives /sealants, I used it to get some of the compound that seals ports when I got messy installing new port plex, it worked when other things did not, it might help if you knew what the po used, but it would seem to me to be worth a try good LUck MikeBacome
West Marine has a product called anti bond, it is pricey , but is supposed to work on adhesives /sealants, I used it to get some of the compound that seals ports when I got messy installing new port plex, it worked when other things did not, it might help if you knew what the po used, but it would seem to me to be worth a try good LUck MikeBacome
R
Ray Bowles
I think I remember hearing at the autoparts store
that loctite has a remover type of product out for what you need. Did 5200 or whatever get used to bed the instrument? If so then you really do have a problem. Another option is to use a "Dremmel" type of tool and grind off the heads of the screws to remove 1/2 of the gauge and then the other side. Let us know how it works out. Ray S/V Speedy
that loctite has a remover type of product out for what you need. Did 5200 or whatever get used to bed the instrument? If so then you really do have a problem. Another option is to use a "Dremmel" type of tool and grind off the heads of the screws to remove 1/2 of the gauge and then the other side. Let us know how it works out. Ray S/V Speedy
J
Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Lysle - Don't worry about 5200 - its not that hard
Lysle - To get the screws out I would use PB Blaster - you should be able to buy some at any auto parts store. Failing that, use the best 'liquid wrench' type product they have. While you are at the auto parts store buy a small chisel designed for screw heads. Tap it into the screw to make nice clean lands, then screw it out. The 5200 - its tough but this thing about never getting stuff off is a myth. First, the unit may just come out anyway - maybe you get lucky and the person who installed it didn't prep the surface very well. Failing that, get a guitar string from Walmart or whereever - get the whole package of six. Should cost you all of $5. You'll notice that three strings are just steel and three have some copper wound around them. Take the smallest, just steel one. Take two pencils - don't use pens, could get messy - and wrap the ends of the guitar string around them. You now have a length of wire with a handle at either end - or more accurately, a wire saw. With the wire you can saw the fixture from the deck, damaging neither, without any pain. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Lysle - To get the screws out I would use PB Blaster - you should be able to buy some at any auto parts store. Failing that, use the best 'liquid wrench' type product they have. While you are at the auto parts store buy a small chisel designed for screw heads. Tap it into the screw to make nice clean lands, then screw it out. The 5200 - its tough but this thing about never getting stuff off is a myth. First, the unit may just come out anyway - maybe you get lucky and the person who installed it didn't prep the surface very well. Failing that, get a guitar string from Walmart or whereever - get the whole package of six. Should cost you all of $5. You'll notice that three strings are just steel and three have some copper wound around them. Take the smallest, just steel one. Take two pencils - don't use pens, could get messy - and wrap the ends of the guitar string around them. You now have a length of wire with a handle at either end - or more accurately, a wire saw. With the wire you can saw the fixture from the deck, damaging neither, without any pain. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Check West Marine
They have a new product in the 2002 catalog that is supposed to unseal 5200 and other sealants/caulks. I haven't tried it myself, but I may have an opportunity to do so before too much longer, in which case I'll post a report. Peter H23 "Raven"
They have a new product in the 2002 catalog that is supposed to unseal 5200 and other sealants/caulks. I haven't tried it myself, but I may have an opportunity to do so before too much longer, in which case I'll post a report. Peter H23 "Raven"
Solution and solvent for 5200
It probably is 5200-- it'd be the correct thing for 'permanent' installations like this. Try slitting it with a sharp knife. You will do less harm to the fibreglass or plastic than to the 5200 so don't be afraid to really cut in there. This is the best anti-5200 solution and even though it's a chemical bond you may be able to get the parts very clean just by slitting it and rubbing it away. Screws put in with Loctite will back out if you're patient. Once you booger the heads though, you're done (get out the drill bitt). Cured 5200 will soften with gasoline (you can't use it on fuel tanks). Mind the fumes in the bottom of the boat. JC
It probably is 5200-- it'd be the correct thing for 'permanent' installations like this. Try slitting it with a sharp knife. You will do less harm to the fibreglass or plastic than to the 5200 so don't be afraid to really cut in there. This is the best anti-5200 solution and even though it's a chemical bond you may be able to get the parts very clean just by slitting it and rubbing it away. Screws put in with Loctite will back out if you're patient. Once you booger the heads though, you're done (get out the drill bitt). Cured 5200 will soften with gasoline (you can't use it on fuel tanks). Mind the fumes in the bottom of the boat. JC
B
Bob McDowell
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