HELP WITH MY YANMAR 4JH3E NO START PROBLEM

[dlochner]

@Valerio I don't have a spare all I carry are fuel and oil filters and belts for the water pump and alternator. I think its rather unusual for the starters to fail, especially in my case where the boat is only used 1/2 the year, the other half its on the hard.

When starters wear out, typically it is the brushes in the motor that wear out. These can be replaced by any automotive electrical shop that rebuilds starters and alternators. Solenoids do wear out and they need to be replaced, again a visit to the auto electrical guy is your best bet.

I do have a spare starter, only because I bought it before I figured out what the problem was. By then the new starter was a used starter and couldn't be returned.

 

[DayDreamer41]

When starters wear out, typically it is the brushes in the motor that wear out. These can be replaced by any automotive electrical shop that rebuilds starters and alternators. Solenoids do wear out and they need to be replaced, again a visit to the auto electrical guy is your best bet.

I do have a spare starter, only because I bought it before I figured out what the problem was. By then the new starter was a used starter and couldn't be returned.

Yes I fully agree with that, but if a starter failed in a location where one could not get if fixed easily the a spare might be a good thing to have, fortunately I don't have the problem. I did take the drive motor from the bow thruster in (2) years ago and the armature cut and new brushes put in came back like brand new.

 

[jviss]

Not if there is not fuel going to the engine. To bleed a fuel system fuel must be pumped through the system and air bled out. Depending on the engine there will be one or more places where the air is allowed to escape. Usually these are screws that are opened until fuel and not bubbles come out. Finally, one of the connections to an injector is loosened to get fuel to the cylinder.

Watch carefully so the engine doesn't start and if per chance it does open the seacock quickly or have someone shut the engine off. If the connections to the injectors are loose, fuel can not enter the cylinder. Also if you open the compression release the engine cannot start as there is no compression.

Gotcha, yea, I've bled diesels before, but always with an available electric lift pump. The compression release works, too, when bleeding the high pressure side, as you suggest, but I always try to start once the low pressure side is bled, and if it fires and runs rough, I just bleed at the injectors.

 

[jviss]

@Valerio I don't have a spare all I carry are fuel and oil filters and belts for the water pump and alternator. I think its rather unusual for the starters to fail, especially in my case where the boat is only used 1/2 the year, the other half its on the hard.

Lucky! I've had starters fail on both my boats, a C36 with an M25, and a Tartan 3800 with a Westerbeke 38B-FOUR. The latter, I replaced with an inexpensive new starter and had the obviously superior OEM starter rebuilt, which I now carry as a spare. The former I did a MacGyver rebuild on the boat: new brushes, polishing the armature, cutting back the mica, cleaning the solenoid contacts, etc. Worked great.

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi Valerio
By the sound of things you have stared the engine.
Good job.
As to you question.
did you buy the spare from yanmar or is it a generic one? what other spares for the engine do you carry whit you?
I think that was directed ate Daydreamer41 and you are asking about the solenoid in the photograph.

As mentioned, it is very rare to carry a spare starter motor, but if you need one I would suggest a generic model.

Amazon.com: Rareelectrical New Starter Compatible With Yanmar Diesel 4Jh2 4Jh3 Yh2 By Part Numbers S114-257 S114483 129573-77010 12957377010 171008-77010 1710877010 129698-77010 12969877010 S114257 S114-257G : Automotive

Buy Rareelectrical New Starter Compatible With Yanmar Diesel 4Jh2 4Jh3 Yh2 By Part Numbers S114-257 S114483 129573-77010 12957377010 171008-77010 1710877010 129698-77010 12969877010 S114257 S114-257G: Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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As for what spares to carry.
Cooling system. (I am not sure but I think the seawater cooling and the freshwater cooling hoses are the same inside diameter. You should remove one of each and measure inside)
hose clamps.
a metre of hose. (garden hose will do the job in an emergency situation)
seawater pump impeller (this should be changed at a regular interval depending on how much you use the engine)

Fuel system.
fuel filters.
maybe fit a fuel pump bulb to make bleeding easier, if so a spare bulb
View attachment 169505

Electrical system
Spare wire.
Fuses, connector, tape etc
And for $25 this book is essential

Amazon.com

A multimeter is essential

These spares should cover the basic problems you will face.
Of course you will need the tools to make these repairs.

All the best
Gary

 

[jviss]

if you need one I would suggest a generic model

I have both an OEM starter from my Misubishi-based Westerbeke, and an inexpensive replacement starter. I can tell you that the OEM one is much better made, much sturdier, and fits much better. For example, the flange fits exactly into the plate, so you can push it in and it stays in so you can insert the bolts; the inexpensive one flops around, it' very loose in the plate hole. Overall it just seems cheap.

The price difference is huge, I know: $760 for the OEM vis Westerbeke, $109 for the cheap one, eBay.

I highly recommend you keep that OEM one, and have it rebuilt if you ever have to replace it. I guess an inexpensive one is O.K. as a spare.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Not if there is not fuel going to the engine. To bleed a fuel system fuel must be pumped through the system and air bled out. Depending on the engine there will be one or more places where the air is allowed to escape. Usually these are screws that are opened until fuel and not bubbles come out. Finally, one of the connections to an injector is loosened to get fuel to the cylinder.

Watch carefully so the engine doesn't start and if per chance it does open the seacock quickly or have someone shut the engine off. If the connections to the injectors are loose, fuel can not enter the cylinder. Also if you open the compression release the engine cannot start as there is no compression.

You need to decompress the engine in order to use the starter to bleed it. Be careful though because just shutting the through-hull still leaves water from the through-hull to the skimmer, to the impeller and finally from the impeller to the engine. If the motor doesn't bleed rapidly or doesn't start, that water will not get pushed by the exhaust gases and likely will get into one of the cylinder through the opened exhaust valve. That will cause hydro-locking, which could severely damaged the engine.

 

[jviss]

If the motor doesn't bleed rapidly or doesn't start, that water will not get pushed by the exhaust gases and likely will get into one of the cylinder through the opened exhaust valve.

Is that so? I thought the only risk of water backing up was once the muffler filled up.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Exhaust gases are expelled when exhaust valves do open. Impeller is pulling water left in skimmer and hose from through-hull, but if no exhaust gas pressure because engine is not running, then water takes the path of least resistance and flows into the cylinders through the opening of the exhaust valves which have no gases moving through since no explosion is happening. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[dlochner]

Exhaust gases are expelled when exhaust valves do open. Impeller is pulling water left in skimmer and hose from through-hull, but if no exhaust gas pressure because engine is not running, then water takes the path of least resistance and flows into the cylinders through the opening of the exhaust valves which have no gases moving through since no explosion is happening. Don't ask me how I know.

Sounds like another "Experience is what you don't get until right after you need it."

 

[Valerio]

THE MORE I REED THE LESS I KNOW THAT I KNOW, nice to get help from this nice forum.

 

[jviss]

water left in skimmer and hose

You are saying this is enough water to back up into the exhaust manifold? Ha, ha!

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Water cannot be compressed so it does not take a lot to create hydro-lock. Think of the volume of water in the hose from the through-hull to the skimmer + what's in the skimmer itself + the water in the hose from the skimmer to the impeller, the water in the hose from the impeller to the exchanger and finally what's in the exchanger itself. That is more than enough !

 

[SycloneDriver]

I'm curious, don't most water lift mufflers have water drains?
Mine does. I just assumed it was common.