Help, the Lake Michigan winter did a number on our canvas boat cover. I would like to try to repair it myself but am unsure of how to approach it. I do have extra canvas to make patches with (my poor neighbors cover was ripped to shreds so I got some of his!). Does anyone know what kind of twine to use to sew canvas (maybe waxed)? I have all the rounded needles etc. I need but I am really just looking for a good website or something to give me some techniques etc. Thanks SO MUCH for taking time to answer my question!
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Some V-69 thread will be strong enough and it will run
on a home sewing machine. Use the longest stitch length you can. If you can't find V-69 then polyester upholstry thread will work. The needle is the proper size if it will slid on the thread when the thread is held taut and almost vertical. Edit to add: it is no more difficuly than patching a pair of jeans.
on a home sewing machine. Use the longest stitch length you can. If you can't find V-69 then polyester upholstry thread will work. The needle is the proper size if it will slid on the thread when the thread is held taut and almost vertical. Edit to add: it is no more difficuly than patching a pair of jeans.
Annette, Ross is correct. It would be better if you
could obtain the use of a commercial machine or a heavy duty home type machine like a Pfaff 130 which is a tailors machine that a lot of cruisers carry on board for repairs of everything. The 130 is preferred by many because it accepts a #20 needle for heavier thread and runs slower than a commercial machine. If you can't get one, a home machine will probably work. If you have hand sewing thread it is probably a V-138 or larger and is too big for a home machine. The V-69 Ross suggested is an appropriate size for everyday marine cover sewing and it should run in a home machine with a #16 or 18 needle. You can get the V-69 polyester at some fabric shops or by mail (the link to sailright is a good source). The only thing that has been left out by the others is that you will not be using a household thread spool that mounts on the top of the machine and turns. Upholstery thread, V-69 and other commercial threads come in a spool that does not turn but stands still and the thread is supposed to be fed straight up off the top of the spool. So you need some kind of a fairlead above the spool so that the thread comes off correctly and imparts the appropriate twist to the thread. Commercial machines have the spool holders built in to the table. Have fun Joe S
could obtain the use of a commercial machine or a heavy duty home type machine like a Pfaff 130 which is a tailors machine that a lot of cruisers carry on board for repairs of everything. The 130 is preferred by many because it accepts a #20 needle for heavier thread and runs slower than a commercial machine. If you can't get one, a home machine will probably work. If you have hand sewing thread it is probably a V-138 or larger and is too big for a home machine. The V-69 Ross suggested is an appropriate size for everyday marine cover sewing and it should run in a home machine with a #16 or 18 needle. You can get the V-69 polyester at some fabric shops or by mail (the link to sailright is a good source). The only thing that has been left out by the others is that you will not be using a household thread spool that mounts on the top of the machine and turns. Upholstery thread, V-69 and other commercial threads come in a spool that does not turn but stands still and the thread is supposed to be fed straight up off the top of the spool. So you need some kind of a fairlead above the spool so that the thread comes off correctly and imparts the appropriate twist to the thread. Commercial machines have the spool holders built in to the table. Have fun Joe S
Thanks Joe Shirley
NOW I know what I was doing wrong. I need to get something to hold the thread up so it comes off the spool the right way. I bought a Singer 401A for $25, but I cannot get it to work with 92. I cannot get it to work on my other straight stitch only machine. A friend gave my his departed wife's machine to try, but my guess it won't work with 69 thread. A 12 pack weighs more than his machine. I tried hand stitching my mainsail (8 oz, multi layered area) using an awl(?) and it was a pain in the butt. It was very hard to get the thread to lock right. As for the canvas, you will most likely need a very heavy duty or commercial machine to use 92 thread. Does anyone know what Sailrite's zig zag machine is in Singer talk? I read once what model it was but forgot it.
NOW I know what I was doing wrong. I need to get something to hold the thread up so it comes off the spool the right way. I bought a Singer 401A for $25, but I cannot get it to work with 92. I cannot get it to work on my other straight stitch only machine. A friend gave my his departed wife's machine to try, but my guess it won't work with 69 thread. A 12 pack weighs more than his machine. I tried hand stitching my mainsail (8 oz, multi layered area) using an awl(?) and it was a pain in the butt. It was very hard to get the thread to lock right. As for the canvas, you will most likely need a very heavy duty or commercial machine to use 92 thread. Does anyone know what Sailrite's zig zag machine is in Singer talk? I read once what model it was but forgot it.
Annette, Good info has been provided.
The only thing I would input is that the machine needs to be tuned correctly. That was my most frustrating thing. Skips, loops, fouls on the blind side.... It is all in the tuning. If you have some of these problems, ask again. r.w.landau
The only thing I would input is that the machine needs to be tuned correctly. That was my most frustrating thing. Skips, loops, fouls on the blind side.... It is all in the tuning. If you have some of these problems, ask again. r.w.landau
Sail cloth is harder to push a needle through
than is canvas. If the eye of the needle is too small for the thread you will have no end of problems. Rotary bobbin machines are harder to time properly than oscillating bobbin machines.
than is canvas. If the eye of the needle is too small for the thread you will have no end of problems. Rotary bobbin machines are harder to time properly than oscillating bobbin machines.
Canvas Repair
All good advice; In addition to Sailrite http://www.sailrite.com/ Lowell Distributing http://www.lowelldirect.com/site/landing_pages/_landing.htm is a good source for supplies. Another good resource is Don Casey's "Canvaswork & Sail Repair" available on Amazon.com for $15.00. V-69 is good for fabrics up to six onces and #16 or #18 needle. V-92 is for fabrics up to 10 onces with #18 or #20. I've tried some canvas work and found that I'm a better carpenter and have my canvas stuff done by a local shop that does it right the first time.
All good advice; In addition to Sailrite http://www.sailrite.com/ Lowell Distributing http://www.lowelldirect.com/site/landing_pages/_landing.htm is a good source for supplies. Another good resource is Don Casey's "Canvaswork & Sail Repair" available on Amazon.com for $15.00. V-69 is good for fabrics up to six onces and #16 or #18 needle. V-92 is for fabrics up to 10 onces with #18 or #20. I've tried some canvas work and found that I'm a better carpenter and have my canvas stuff done by a local shop that does it right the first time.
Don Casey gets a lot of press but jim Grant of sailrite is a better
source. There are others who are making a living in canvas repair who have taken time to write books. Don Casey Makes his living writting books and borrowing from the expertice and experience of others. By pass the middle man and go the the writer with hands on knowledge.
source. There are others who are making a living in canvas repair who have taken time to write books. Don Casey Makes his living writting books and borrowing from the expertice and experience of others. By pass the middle man and go the the writer with hands on knowledge.
If this is a 'boat cover' and doesnt need to be 'pristine' ....
just 'functional', You can use 'fast cure' 3M-5200 instead of stitching ... and the repair will be 'permanent'. Cut the patch to overlap 1/2" then ..... Just use masking tape to prevent the caulk from squeezing out to where it would be 'unsightly', apply a thin layer of 5200 on both sides of the seams, press together until set, etc. The seam overlap would be the same as when you sew. Once the caulk 'kicks' then carefully peel away the masking tape ... very carefully preventing the caulk on the masking tape from coming in contact with the cloth. This will make a flexible 'never ever come apart' seam. You can use flat seams or felled seams. If making 'complicated' seams just steam iron them flat before you add the caulk. Since 3M-5200 is *permanent* you cant make any mistakes during the assembly as once it fully cures, nothing on earth can be done to 'change' the seam (not even "de-bond"). For long sailing passages I take a tube or 2 of 5200 to make repairs in sails or canvass; I leave my sewing machine at home. www.sailrite.com/FAQ?search=5200
just 'functional', You can use 'fast cure' 3M-5200 instead of stitching ... and the repair will be 'permanent'. Cut the patch to overlap 1/2" then ..... Just use masking tape to prevent the caulk from squeezing out to where it would be 'unsightly', apply a thin layer of 5200 on both sides of the seams, press together until set, etc. The seam overlap would be the same as when you sew. Once the caulk 'kicks' then carefully peel away the masking tape ... very carefully preventing the caulk on the masking tape from coming in contact with the cloth. This will make a flexible 'never ever come apart' seam. You can use flat seams or felled seams. If making 'complicated' seams just steam iron them flat before you add the caulk. Since 3M-5200 is *permanent* you cant make any mistakes during the assembly as once it fully cures, nothing on earth can be done to 'change' the seam (not even "de-bond"). For long sailing passages I take a tube or 2 of 5200 to make repairs in sails or canvass; I leave my sewing machine at home. www.sailrite.com/FAQ?search=5200
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