I have a 1979 Hunter 27. There is some play in the shaft but very little. Does this mean the cutlas bearing is bad? If the cutlas bearing is worn is it dificult to change? Where can i get info on this? The engine a Yanmar 8 when in gear also put out black smoke.
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Steve O.
Hunter's Hunter
Your biggest clue that the cutless bearing needs to be replaced will be a knocking sound and/or vibration when under power. If it isn't doing either, I'd leave it alone.
Your biggest clue that the cutless bearing needs to be replaced will be a knocking sound and/or vibration when under power. If it isn't doing either, I'd leave it alone.
SteveO, do you think waiting is a good idea?
Steve: Do you think waiting for the thing to start clunking is a good idea. Ours was worn and did not clunk. It was starting to score the shaft. Once you boat is out of the water and you suspect that it may be a problem I think that I'd just do it. The part is only $40-50. Maybe the yard can tell you what the tolerances should be! I have no clue.
Steve: Do you think waiting for the thing to start clunking is a good idea. Ours was worn and did not clunk. It was starting to score the shaft. Once you boat is out of the water and you suspect that it may be a problem I think that I'd just do it. The part is only $40-50. Maybe the yard can tell you what the tolerances should be! I have no clue.
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Bob Howie
Wobble woes
Altho a new cutless bearing permits no play in the shaft, one might get a bit as the system ages. Folks at my yard say if you get more than about 1/16th-inch slop in the shaft, time for a new cutless. If you wait til it starts thumping or causing vibration, you risk shaft, shaft coupler, transmission damage as well as wobbling out the journal through which your shaft extends out the bottom of the boat. This is big bucks. Here in Texas, it costs about $600-$700 to quick haul the boat, block it for a day, yank the shaft, install a new cutless bearing, reinstall the shaft and splash the boat. You might, since you are going to have it all out anyway, want to spend an extra day and maybe as much as another $100 or so to have a machine shop look at your shaft and retrue it if need be and maybe have the local prop shop clean up and repitch your prop. You will be surprised how much "smoother" your rig will run after doing this.
Altho a new cutless bearing permits no play in the shaft, one might get a bit as the system ages. Folks at my yard say if you get more than about 1/16th-inch slop in the shaft, time for a new cutless. If you wait til it starts thumping or causing vibration, you risk shaft, shaft coupler, transmission damage as well as wobbling out the journal through which your shaft extends out the bottom of the boat. This is big bucks. Here in Texas, it costs about $600-$700 to quick haul the boat, block it for a day, yank the shaft, install a new cutless bearing, reinstall the shaft and splash the boat. You might, since you are going to have it all out anyway, want to spend an extra day and maybe as much as another $100 or so to have a machine shop look at your shaft and retrue it if need be and maybe have the local prop shop clean up and repitch your prop. You will be surprised how much "smoother" your rig will run after doing this.
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Jim Ewing
Do it yourself option
I recently changed the cutless bearing on my 37.5. The yard wanted a bazillion $$ to pull the shaft because at 1" they felt the cutless bearing was too weak to press out. This is what I did: Pull the prop. Get a new cutless bearing remove the set screws on the existing bearing (This was a B-word on mine as the Previous Owner had really buggered one up). Go to the FRIENDLIEST hardware store you can find and buy a short length of copper pipe with an I.D. the same as your shaft's O.D.. You want copper because it's softer than anything it will come in contact with. Have them flare it out about 1/16"-1/8" to match the O.D. of your cutless. We wacked on the pipe with a ball peen hammer to get the flare. Liberally spray old cutless bearing with WD-40 or similar, slide the pipe over the shaft and wack on it with a rubber or plastic mallet. The old cutless slides up the shaft where you can cut it off with a dremel tool. Grease up the new cutless with some friendly grease like food grade silicon grease. Slide it on the shaft and follow it with the pipe. GENTLY wack the pipe with a hammer until the new cutless is in place. Dimple the cutless with a drill and reseat the set screws. Put the prop back on. Total cost (including the pipe) $50 Total Time (Including running all over hell and gone and the nightmare set screws) 3.5 hours Good luck. Jim h37.5 Prospect
I recently changed the cutless bearing on my 37.5. The yard wanted a bazillion $$ to pull the shaft because at 1" they felt the cutless bearing was too weak to press out. This is what I did: Pull the prop. Get a new cutless bearing remove the set screws on the existing bearing (This was a B-word on mine as the Previous Owner had really buggered one up). Go to the FRIENDLIEST hardware store you can find and buy a short length of copper pipe with an I.D. the same as your shaft's O.D.. You want copper because it's softer than anything it will come in contact with. Have them flare it out about 1/16"-1/8" to match the O.D. of your cutless. We wacked on the pipe with a ball peen hammer to get the flare. Liberally spray old cutless bearing with WD-40 or similar, slide the pipe over the shaft and wack on it with a rubber or plastic mallet. The old cutless slides up the shaft where you can cut it off with a dremel tool. Grease up the new cutless with some friendly grease like food grade silicon grease. Slide it on the shaft and follow it with the pipe. GENTLY wack the pipe with a hammer until the new cutless is in place. Dimple the cutless with a drill and reseat the set screws. Put the prop back on. Total cost (including the pipe) $50 Total Time (Including running all over hell and gone and the nightmare set screws) 3.5 hours Good luck. Jim h37.5 Prospect
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