Help with battery switch

[maxxx]

The contacts on my rotary battery switch are evidently corroded so that my bilge pump will not come on any any position but Batt 2. Can any one give suggestions on cleaning the contacts. Is it as easy as unscrewing the switch, maybe some emory paper on the contacts and then some wd-40 ?? My boat is 4 hrs awayand it will be next week before work will allow me to get to it. Would it be better to just buy a new switch?? Thanks for any advice!!! max:neutral:

 

[Bill Roosa]

cleaning 3-way switches

First check the terminals on the back for corrosion.
You can take apart most switches but they will probably have rivets not screws so you will have to drill them out or file the heads off. Then replace the rivets with bolts and nuts.
I'd not recommend the WD-40 as it promotes dust collection. Do seal the switch when you close it up to make it weather resistant though.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Further, WD-40 is flammable. Rotate the battery switch with any load on it and there will be a spark, possibly igniting the WD-40.

I've used it in the past for diesel starting fluid.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I am certain that you know but I have to ask anyway. Are you sure it used to work on #1 and/or BOTH? That is a very unusual problem. When you consider the tension on those contact points and the sliding action it is hard to see how those points would not make. Does anything/everything else work on #1? If so then how is the bilge wiring different? On my boat the panel switch to the bilge pump is wired to common 12v at the panel. The float switch is wired directly from the back of the big red battery switch. But to the common 12v so that it is on all of the time. Switching is not required. There is a cleaner that I use by the way: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/1/1/9824-electrical-switches-3m-novec-contact-cleaner.html

 

[Maine Sail]

Many bilge pump installations are direct wired to the battery and generally do not go through the battery switch. Often times a bilge pump specific switch with AUTO-OFF-MANUAL will be installed. IMHO a bilge pump should not be activated off the battery switch because most boaters turn this switch off when leaving the boat and this would also kill the bilge pump. If direct wired to the house bank it should have a fuse within 7" of the pos battery terminal.

As for your battery switch it may be corroded but may not. If it is that badly corroded it may be easiest just to replace it. Use a multi-meter and check the continuity between the common post of the switch and the 1 & 2 positions. Or just turn on some cabin lights then select bank 1 & 2 if the lights go off on bank 1 or 2 then the switch may be toast. Don't discount that a fuse may be installed that has blown too. It is pretty rare that these switches go bad but nothing is suspect in the marine environment.

 

[Warren Milberg]

In addition to the checks suggested by Maine Sail, I would also suggest checking the quality and integrity of the crimps on your batter wires. I had some starting anomalies a few years back and found, much to my surprise, that 2 of the 3 hot wires going to the battery switch had faulty crimps. I could easily pull the wires out of those (probably factory) crimps.

 

[KMm]

The best thing I have found is a can of contact cleaner from Radio Shack, after you check all the connections as the guys suggested above.

 

[JoeWhite]

If you think the switch is bad - then set switch to #1 position and at the switch short position 1 and 2 toghether if it works then your switch contacts are bad and it is time to replace the switch. Do not repair it.

 

[zeehag]

my ericson has no perko breakme switch--it has 3 toggles--one for each battery bank and one for the invertor. works great and reliable, whereas perko switches-- those rotary things, fail.

 

[maxxx]

Thanks to all. I'm not sure how the pump is wired but I do know that it worked in the off position. Sounds like I need to replace the switch. Thanks again, max