thinwater- did not take offense. Just curious as to your comment that the shovel splice does not in one or more ways meet with accepted splicing standards [of strength] and is therefore "rubbish." My (professional) rigger uses the two-strand long splice to the ultimate link of the chain. I suppose I could learn to do that one as well, given that the point of the discussion here is about what will pass through the gypsy. As we know, another way to attach rode to chain is to splice a thimble to the rode and then shackle it to the ultimate link of the chain. Of course, the shackle would then likely become the weak link unless using the new "soft shackle" protected from chaffing and on a nylon thimble. Perhaps that would nevertheless be the best method with a kedge anchor as its the rode would not have to pass through the gypsy head of a windlass. That way you could store the chain and rode separately, etc.
Yes, the shovel splice is full strength. I have tested them for articles. The 2-strand splice will require several efforts to get right, but you can do it. The main things are to tension both sides equally and not to get it too tight on the last link (chafe is not a big problem--the next link will move MUCH more easily than the last link/rope).
Because it is the last link, there is more space, and an ordinary soft shackle (one size larger) or grade B shackle is strong enough. It is only mid-chain where the strength of the soft shackles is a challenge (less space), and even then it is not a problem, because it will have a much higher WLL than the nylon snubber. (Dyneema, like metals, can work much closer to its BS without fatigue. Steel cable ~ 25% BS, nylon ~ 9% BS, Dyneema >50% ) Always look at WLL more closely than BS--it is never the BS that causes rode failure.
I'm not sure I would use a soft shackle where it will get buried in the mud (if I understand you correctly--I may not). I say this ONLY because I think there is little experience with the security of a soft shackle in an environment where the weave will get jammed with mud and the self-tightening properties might be compromised. I simply do not know and have never read of it. I just don't know. They certainly work well on flogging sails.
I've gone to using NO CHAIN on my kedge anchor. I use a 20-foot over-strength Dyneema leader with a loose-fitting webbing chafe guard. I would not use bare Dyneema, if for no other reason than it's too slippery to handle.
- If it is laid in a V, there is no motion on the bottom.
- I only use a V in soft mud anyway. Nothing to cut.
- It is easier to manage.
- Sets deeper.
- Much easier to cleat when breaking the anchor out. No chain to scratch the topsides. no need to use a snubber/chain grab.
- Loose webbing gives incredible cut resistance, because it slides with the sharp edge. Like trying to hacksaw a roller that is free to turn.
- Fortress anchors set better with no weight on the shank (the weight drags the shank down into the mud).
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2016/05/a-better-secondary-anchor-rode.html
