I suspect this info is in the archives, but I can't find it. My transducer is due for replacement. the boat is up on stands. The old unit will not pop out with repeated hammer blows. I suspect it is sealed in with 5200 or some sort of superglop. I had fabricated a gear puller style threaded rod assembly to yank it from the outside. Does anyone know the best proceedure to break down the gloop without tearing up the surrounding hull. Like hot knives or solvent or what. Maybe a core drill? thanks for the reply.
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Assuming it has a flange on the outside
is it possible to get a guitar string under the flange to cut the adhesive?
is it possible to get a guitar string under the flange to cut the adhesive?
Place a strain on it with your gear puller
for 24 hours and then tighten it a bit more. Many times a glue joint will yield under a prolonged strain when hammer blows do nothing. Heating with a good heat gun may also help.
for 24 hours and then tighten it a bit more. Many times a glue joint will yield under a prolonged strain when hammer blows do nothing. Heating with a good heat gun may also help.
Usu a pipe wrench
If you have space use a pipe wrench. The twisting motion will break the polymer. It will be in shear rathen than tension . Do it slowly and use a knife to cut the visible caulking in between the tranducer and the hull. Plan ahead is like a 2 hour job. Good lock, Velero
If you have space use a pipe wrench. The twisting motion will break the polymer. It will be in shear rathen than tension . Do it slowly and use a knife to cut the visible caulking in between the tranducer and the hull. Plan ahead is like a 2 hour job. Good lock, Velero
Solvent
There is a solvent for 5200 that works pretty good. I used it on some deck hardware last year. I am not surwho makes it though as I go it from the guy that runs my boatyard. If you can't find it then the twisting option worked great for me when I replaced my transducer
There is a solvent for 5200 that works pretty good. I used it on some deck hardware last year. I am not surwho makes it though as I go it from the guy that runs my boatyard. If you can't find it then the twisting option worked great for me when I replaced my transducer
Are you sure its a through hull?
Are you sure your transducer is mounted through the hull? The reason I ask the question is that I asked my brother to replace our last winter. He spent some time hammering, scratching the outside, and trying to pull the depth out of the hull. The problem he didn't think about was we had two depth tranducers: one mounted through the hull and one epoxied on the inside of the hull. You guessed it, he was hammering on the epoxied tranducer and scratching on the through hull mounted transducer. FWIW.
Are you sure your transducer is mounted through the hull? The reason I ask the question is that I asked my brother to replace our last winter. He spent some time hammering, scratching the outside, and trying to pull the depth out of the hull. The problem he didn't think about was we had two depth tranducers: one mounted through the hull and one epoxied on the inside of the hull. You guessed it, he was hammering on the epoxied tranducer and scratching on the through hull mounted transducer. FWIW.
Just did mine last weekend
It was a standard airmar transducer. I took a grinder to the outside of the thru hull mushroom head - made of heavy plastic. Ground the head off being carefull not to hit the hull (to much). Went inside with a pipe wrench and started turning until it broke loose from the caulk. Then I was able to pull it out. I've inserted a bronze thru hull that will be used for the wash down pump. Pictures at 11:00 pm Jim S/V Java
It was a standard airmar transducer. I took a grinder to the outside of the thru hull mushroom head - made of heavy plastic. Ground the head off being carefull not to hit the hull (to much). Went inside with a pipe wrench and started turning until it broke loose from the caulk. Then I was able to pull it out. I've inserted a bronze thru hull that will be used for the wash down pump. Pictures at 11:00 pm Jim S/V Java
Anti-Bond
There is a product call Anti-Bond that is supposed to loosen 5200. Also a product from Boatlife.. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|12626|311448&id=567743
There is a product call Anti-Bond that is supposed to loosen 5200. Also a product from Boatlife.. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|12626|311448&id=567743
Last Spring
I removed 2 original TD's (speed & depth) on my boat (1988 Legend 37) last spring. Stowe was the brand name (now Simrad). I hammered from inside because they were mushroom-type. Got them out about 1/4" and, at the yard's recommendation, took a Saws-All and cut the brass mushroom heads off. I pulled them, cleaned the hole of adhesive and replaced with the new TD's.
I removed 2 original TD's (speed & depth) on my boat (1988 Legend 37) last spring. Stowe was the brand name (now Simrad). I hammered from inside because they were mushroom-type. Got them out about 1/4" and, at the yard's recommendation, took a Saws-All and cut the brass mushroom heads off. I pulled them, cleaned the hole of adhesive and replaced with the new TD's.
Thank you
Mission accomplished. Thanks to all who helped. Im the end I only used a roto-zip tool and it took about 15 min.
Mission accomplished. Thanks to all who helped. Im the end I only used a roto-zip tool and it took about 15 min.
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