Help replacing sheave divider on a Hunter 26

MySong

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Aug 20, 2019
49
Hunter 26 1001 Rocky Fork Lake
In the pic below you can see the sheaves at the base of my mast. As some point they had a plastic divider, now they don't. This causes the lines to occasionally jump off the sheaves. I ordered the proper divider from the Hunter Owner Store. The bolt that goes through the center of them just seems to be glued in with 5200. There are no screw slots on the head or anything to grip.

1) How do I get it out to replace the divider?
2) When I pull it out are there any nuts or parts on the other end that will fall into the ceiling of the cabin and be lost forever?

 

Attachments

Jan 19, 2010
12,713
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I’ve done this

you need one of these…
CF296697-1EC0-4995-9F56-B3628C14A763.jpeg

go between the sheaves and grab the pin. Then start to rotate it back and forth until the glue starts to give. Be patient. It takes a while. I rapped the side of the pliers with a hammer with the pliers gripping the pin but don’t get carried away with that approach.
 
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MySong

.
Aug 20, 2019
49
Hunter 26 1001 Rocky Fork Lake
I’ve done this

you need one of these…
View attachment 205156
go between the sheaves and grab the pin. Then start to rotate it back and forth until the glue starts to give. Be patient. It takes a while. I rapped the side of the pliers with a hammer with the pliers gripping the pin but don’t get carried away with that approach.
Is there anything inside I need to worry about?
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,713
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
It is just glued in like you suspected. 4200 is good enough. The plastic divider I got from SBO only lasted a season before it got brittle so I’d glue it back with 4200
 

RBryn

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Nov 22, 2019
5
Hunter 26 Finally, back in Blaine, WA
I know replacing the sheave would be best, but has anyone ever attempted just installing a double block?
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,713
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Same problem, but ... What the hell is that?
It would be really helpful if someone could name that pair of pliers. Many thanks.
RBryn
Bent needle nose pliers

And your other question.... I was able to shackle blocks to the mast base when I ran some lines back to the cockpit. You could just as easily do the same and bypass these blocks you are dealing with.
 

RBryn

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Nov 22, 2019
5
Hunter 26 Finally, back in Blaine, WA
Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I was planning to do the same, but will look at the bent nose plier approach as well.
 
Jul 3, 2020
78
Hunter 260 Sarasota
Other than just using muscle, a spray of Debond 5200 remover may help break the seal. Just be careful not to spray it on anything else in that area that you want a seal to remain.
 

RBryn

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Nov 22, 2019
5
Hunter 26 Finally, back in Blaine, WA
Just got myself a twisted shackle and a double sheave block at the Sailboat wrecking yard and bypassed the built in sheaves. Works just fine.
 

Attachments

Jun 8, 2004
10,499
-na -NA Anywhere USA
There are reasons why it was built that way.
with the line and block that high off the deck is unsafe as someone may fall tripping over it. Eventually the shackle will break the seal of the pin causing a leak into the cabin. Finally I have seen the sheet and the 110 jib get entangled when closely hauled
 

RBryn

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Nov 22, 2019
5
Hunter 26 Finally, back in Blaine, WA
It's mounted to the base of the mast. No perforations. We'll see about the other issues you mentioned. But the best improvement is an improved angle to the line organizer.