Help me solve a problem

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Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
We have a wind generator(Air Marine 403) that is mounted on a 1.5" SS pole. Every winter I want to be able to take the unit down for storage(including the pole). I also want to be able to remove the generator for service occasionally.

When I bought the boat the cables go from the voltage regulator in the sail locker out through some weatherproof adjustable wire grommits on deck and into the pole and then up the pole soldered directly to the generator leads which are about 18" long.

When taking down this fall I had to cut the wires at the base of the pole to remove the pole and then had to cut the solder connection to get the generator off the pole.

I would like to add some connectors at the top of the pole that will fit inside with enough slack to remove the unit from the pole. This area is capped and should remain dry.

So what I need is some type of connector that can handle 4 gauge wire that will not short out on the inside of the 1.5" SS pole.
 

Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
Tim, could you not use a standard 4 gauge electrical connector that can be bolted open and closed whenever you wish? They also sell individual plastic covers that snap over each leg of the connector.
 

Attachments

Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
Wow 4 gauge, that's a little over kill? How about redicing the wire size up the pole, you won't get much E drop for such the small distance that represents. Maybe go to multiple 12 gauge.
 
Sep 25, 2008
615
Morgan 415 Out Island Rogersville, AL
You could be sure that the generator doesn't use 4 gauge inside the unit. 4 gauge is good to prevent voltage drop over lage distances. A short section of smaller wire won't hurt at the unit, imho.
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
The generator uses 10ga. wire with 3 strands. Pos, Neg, Gnd. These wires are about 18 inches long and attach to the 4(maybe 6)ga wire for an appr 15ft. run.

For the record, I understand voltage drop.
 
Aug 25, 2010
62
Catalina 30 Seabrook, TX
Just thinking out loud

Could you use something like the shore power set up? A plug on the end of the cord comming out of the pole and a twist lock outlet mounted on the boat? Just a thought.
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Could you use something like the shore power set up? A plug on the end of the cord comming out of the pole and a twist lock outlet mounted on the boat? Just a thought.
That would work for the base of the pole but I still need to do something at the top.
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Tim,
Go into any electric supply and ask for # 4 gage 2 position Polaris connectors, there plastic covered lugs that we electricians use instead of bug nuts.
I'll try and find a picture or link
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Try a ham radio distributor. They routinly have 30+ amp connections in harsh environs
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Forget the addition of connectors anywhere 'above deck' .

1. Mount the 'diode/switch unit' as close and convenient as possible to the deck mount for the pole.
2. Change the 'screw terminals' on the diode/switch to 'spade' connectors, etc. ON THE BOX
3. Get (or have fabricated) a pole-deck mount with a large enough base onto which you 'seal weld' the cable through-deck connector TO the base of the pole mount. Caulk the cable into the though deck.
4. THREE backing plates - one plate under the deck, one plate ON TOP OF THE DECK and to which you seat / screw down the pole mount, one plate with NO hole for the cable.
5. Cut a gasket out of soft BUNA or EPDM rubber that fits between the pole mount and the top deck plate.
6. WELD the attachment nuts of the underdeck backing plate, epoxy the underdeck backing plate in place.

To remove the pole:
1. Slip off the spade connectors from the diode/switch
2. unscrew remove the pole base bolts
3. pull the pole, pole mount AND the wiring
4. Install the solid backing plate and the gasket.

To reinstall
1. remove the solid top plate, etc.
2. mount the pole, gasket, and apply correct torque to the bolts .... can a apply a very thin film of Silicone caulk to the gasket surface.
3. reconnect the wires.

NO unecessary 'connectors', through deck is always properly sealed and watertight, backing plate doesnt fall into the 'chasm' when disassembling, cable through-deck doesnt have to be 'messed-with'. Just Pull or push two wire connections, remove/reinstall two bolts, replace with a flat plate and bolt down (with a wee bit of caulk applied) - DONE.
BTW - the rubber gasket will help attenuate 'vibrations' transmitted from the Windgen to the Deck
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Jul 28, 2010
914
Boston Whaler Montauk New Orleans
So the only connectors I need are inside the top of the pole which is sealed by the mounting of the generator.
What about a trolling motor plug? Would that fit into the pole? The female inside the pole, the male connected (somehow) to the base of the generator. You could just set the generator into the pole, lining up the plug holes.
 
Feb 2, 2010
373
Island Packet 37 Hull #2 Harpswell Me
Four gauge is what i use to bring power to my Warn 10000 lb winch, which has a huge current draw, therefore, try the Warn website for fixtures and fittings, it does seem like extremely heavy cable
 
Sep 29, 2008
1,981
Catalina 310 #185 Quantico
Can you post pictures?

Tim, I have that tower kit on order. Would love to see how yours is set up.
 
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