help ! how to remove flange from drive shaft

[Rick D]

MainSail Might Also Mention...

...to be very careful with the shaft once you remove it. They are surprisingly easy to bend if mishandled at all. Don't ask how I know, altho all the ones I have experience with were S/S rather than bronze. I never replaced the flange myself, rather reused the ones I did after having the shaft/prop shop check them. For all the work you are going through, it probably is a good idea. The anti-seize I used seemed to have good effect after having to remove one a second time two years later.

 

[Hermit Scott]

Coulping

I am having a machine shop put a taper and keyway on one end of a shaft and just a key way on the other. I went there today, they started work on the shaft. Tomorrow they will make the coupling. The shaft is aquamet 17 and the guy said he could make the coupling out of stainless. Should I have him press in another type of steel and then machine that to match the shaft, so I don't have stainless pressed into stainless? OR can I do it stainless on stainless but consider the mating surfaces a one time use thing?
Do you guys have that rubber coupling thing in between the output shaft and the shaft coulping?

 

[kloudie1]

Re: Coulping

Scott, because the Aquamet is heat treatment hardened, probably will not be a problem with galling between that and 300 series stainless.. be generous with the NICKEL antiseize .. don't test fit without nickel antiseize.. Call the neighbors when you open the tube of antiseize because that stuff will get on EVERYTHING.. It only takes about ten minutes to get next door!

 

[Hermit Scott]

Nickle

I am glad about that. What's the deal with the nickle antiseize? Does it smell bad or is it just messy?
Since we are in the shaft mood in this room, I don't want to highjack, I'll just barrow for a second.
I rebuilt my engine but since the water pump was completely seperate from the engine, I just replaced the impeller polished the outter plate and said I'd redo it later. Well, it's later and I took the pump apart yesterday. I noticed it has an automotive type oil seal to keep the water from leaking from the impeller side of the pump. Why aren't prop shafts sealed with oil type seals? Also, along the same line of questioning, are water pumps built to leak like prop shafts are made to leak for lubrication of the seal? The water pump I have has the bearings on one side and the impeller on the other, and they are seperated by an area with large weep holes.

 

[Ross]

Re: Coulping

I use a "Drivesaver" between the transmission and the coupling and would never consider an installation without such. How could anyone plan a power source on flexible mounts without installing a flexible coupling? You can be as meticulous as you like in your alignment but with flexible motor mounts you must have a flexible coupling between the engine and the shaft.

 

[kloudie1]

Re: Nickle

Scott, prop shaft moves too much to be sealed with an elastomer lip seal. The bearings in the water pump keep the shaft rotating on center. Lip seals cannot tolerate more than a few thousandths of shaft wobble. No, there should be no water from the lip seal on the raw water pump. The weep holes are to keep water from getting into the pump bearings or the engine crankcase when the seal fails and begins to drip. Most pumps have a slinger in there to sling the water off the shaft and out the holes when the seal begins to leak.
Nickel anti seize is a mess that is hard to remove from hands and clothes and fiberglass and upholstery..