heat exchanger servicing / Yanmar 4JH2TE

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
I thought I would do this post in the hope that it may save someone else the trouble I have just had to deal with. They say ignorance is bliss- but it can also become VERY expensive! I am manic about maintenance on my boat having the engine professionally serviced every year. This year, I had noticed that the end caps on my heat exchanger manifold were showing the slightest sign of corrosion. There was a tiny white line at the joint between the manifold and the end caps at each end. I had ordered the new seals ( O-rings (from Yanmar) and pointed it out to the mechanic. When he removed the end caps- the one at the back of the engine - where the sea water enters the manifold had actually corroded the seal surface on the aluminum manifold and was very close to blowing out. I removed the manifold and found that unfortunately this corrosion looked to go about 3>5mm into the aluminum at the sealing surface. When I found a replacement manifold from Yanmar was going to cost $3900, I got serious about trying to get it repaired. luckily I did find a guy who was willing to tackle the job and had a big enough vertical mill to be able to re-machine the seal surface after welding. Well, it turns out he had to grind out as much as 30mm ( over an inch) of metal before he found solid aluminum that would receive the weld. It turns out , once corrosion begins it permeates into the the aluminum much deeper than it appears to the naked eye.
During this process, I found out that you really should replace these O'ring seals every 12 months- it turns out this is the cheapest possible way to avoid this problem- you have bronze end caps clamped to an aluminum manifold , exposed to salt water- not at all good. Having said that, in 6 annual engine services by registered Yanmar mechanics, I don't think anyone of them checked - let alone replaced these seals. I was also advised to use copious amounts of Vaseline grease on these sealing surfaces during re-assembly.
I also found that my fresh water drain plug at the bottom rear of the manifold had become blocked with a build up a dirt/sediment- it was easy enough to clear and clean, but again who would have thought! Another good find was that instead of paying $20 for the genuine Yanmar O'rings , a standard 232 O'ring is a perfect fit and readily available anywhere that stocks a good wide range of O'rings (it is 76mm x 3mm thick) and costs cents each!
So , I hope this post saves someone else from experiencing this same - potentially ,very expensive problem.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,186
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Sticky Post?

Can we get this stuck into engines & propulsion?

2700 hours and 20 years on mine and never cracked the manifold. $3900??? Now I'm going to have nightmares. Thanks for the heads-up (I think...)

 

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
RickD- I have just over 5000 hours and 24 years- no idea when these were looked at - certainly not in my 6 years ownership! Better to check it sooner , rather than later!
Good luck
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,939
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Ditto, here.

After 1,900 hours on our 1991 Yanmar, it is worth a peek. Thank you for the tip.
 

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
it is such a simple job- i recommend everyone with a 4JH replace these o rings annually- with standard off the shelf "232" O rings ( 3mm thick / 76mm dia.) i was also told use lots - LOTS of vaseline or lanocote on both surfaces and O rings
 

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
Hang loose everyone- on recommissioning today I found a problem with the O ring size mentioned- I will post again tomorrow after everything is sorted out with the corrected O'ring info!
SORRY!!!!!
 

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
Don- it was the Yanmar exhaust manifold that was damaged- cant get an aftermarket one -I wouldn't think! The core was fine- in very good order.
 

eianm

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Jul 7, 2010
523
Hunter 42 Sydney
UPDATE******OK- this is important!!!!! Sorry if I misled you , but I fell into a trap, that according to the Yanmar importer techy I spoke to this morning, catches MANY! When you remove the end caps off the heat exchanger- if they have been left for too long- the Orings fall out when the end plates come off- they are also squashed into a triangle shape- which is confusing. The trap is that the Orings do NOT go into the machined groove 3mm deep and wide that are machined into the bronze end caps- the Orings are actually rolled over the exposed edge of the heat exchanger core that is exposed at each end by a little less than 3mm each end. The O ring needed needs to be 3mm thick and 77>78mm dia. The yanmar delaer i ordered the gaskets and Orings through was also unaware of this- he also identified that the Orings supplied looked to small- we were both confused.
At the back end you also need the Yanmar rubber gasket- this is paper thin rubber and flat- with an extra piece cutting the radius in half- you will see on the back end of the heater core ( yes - there is a front and a back to the core itself) there is a flat space right across the middle of the core- this lines up with the same ridge on the inside of the rear end cap - the purpose of this is to seal so that you get a second pass of fresh water back through the core. I will post the O ring number as soon as I get it- I ended up using the genuine yanmar part, as I had already paid for it and had it! But , I will be using a standard O ring moving forward- paying yanmar $21.50 for an O ring sucks!