Heat Exchanger Brackets

Feb 20, 2013
48
Catalina 310 Channel Islands Harbor
I have put on about ten engine hours since some major work on the cooling system. The big items were removing the heat exchanger for cleaning, and installing an Oberdorfer raw water pump. At that time all the hoses were replaced and many other items were repaired. All went well and no leaks were noted. Just wanted to double check all of the clamps and hardware that I had worked on, and investigate a new vibration issue.

The big issue I found was that both brackets that hold the heat exchanger to the engine were broken. I assume that when I opened them up, just enough to remove them from the exchanger it was enough stress on the metal to lead to such a quick failure. They did work fine for almost 600 hours until I touched them. I was able to find the OEM replacement brackets, p/n Westerbeke 46947. Knew there must be a better way.

I contacted "Mr Cool Marine Products" about the replacement heat exchanger that they sell for the xpb engine, which comes with replacement brackets and clamps. I was able to purchase just the two brackets and two clamps from them. This looks to be a much better way to mount the exchanger.

Put a little red rtv on the saddle where the exchanger sits and wrapped the the exchanger with some rtv tape to help with vibration and chaffing. Install was quick and the engine runs so smooth now. I really think it runs smoother now, then before the original brackets failed. The new brackets position the exchanger just up and forward enough to enable the transmission dip stick to be removed and checked easily. Also provides for just a little more clearance for the exhaust hose from the aft bulkhead.

Just wanted to give a heads up if you need to remove your heat exchanger or are fighting a vibration problem.

Jeff

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Mar 6, 2009
43
Catalina 310 Dunedin, Fl
Thanks for this info. I also replaced my broken ones, but I used galvanized brackets from Home Depot. They are much stronger than the originals and wrap around the heat exchanger. I like your solution much better! Will keep that in mind for when I have to replace the galvanized ones.
 
Jan 22, 2008
214
Catalina 310 #147 Oakville Yacht Squadron
Do you have a part number? Nothing like that was apparent on their website for HX mounting brackets
My original now broken brackets pre-date the design that you broke. Westerbeke provided your style for free a number of years ago and I was going to install them.
I would like to avoid that aggravation

Thanks
Peter
416 996-0423
 

Clydo

.
May 28, 2013
341
Catalina C310 SF Bay/Delta
I have put on about ten engine hours since some major work on the cooling system. The big items were removing the heat exchanger for cleaning, and installing an Oberdorfer raw water pump. At that time all the hoses were replaced and many other items were repaired. All went well and no leaks were noted. Just wanted to double check all of the clamps and hardware that I had worked on, and investigate a new vibration issue.

The big issue I found was that both brackets that hold the heat exchanger to the engine were broken. I assume that when I opened them up, just enough to remove them from the exchanger it was enough stress on the metal to lead to such a quick failure. They did work fine for almost 600 hours until I touched them. I was able to find the OEM replacement brackets, p/n Westerbeke 46947. Knew there must be a better way.

I contacted "Mr Cool Marine Products" about the replacement heat exchanger that they sell for the xpb engine, which comes with replacement brackets and clamps. I was able to purchase just the two brackets and two clamps from them. This looks to be a much better way to mount the exchanger.

Put a little red rtv on the saddle where the exchanger sits and wrapped the the exchanger with some rtv tape to help with vibration and chaffing. Install was quick and the engine runs so smooth now. I really think it runs smoother now, then before the original brackets failed. The new brackets position the exchanger just up and forward enough to enable the transmission dip stick to be removed and checked easily. Also provides for just a little more clearance for the exhaust hose from the aft bulkhead.

Just wanted to give a heads up if you need to remove your heat exchanger or are fighting a vibration problem.

Jeff

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Looks great. Will go that route before too long. What Ober pump model
did you use on your XPB? Did you have to make any modifications
to make it fit?

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEAN TOO
San Jose, CA
 
Feb 20, 2013
48
Catalina 310 Channel Islands Harbor
I contacted Russ Cromer at Mr.Cool, he arranged to sell me just the brackets as they are not listed separately. Great guy to work with, charged me 71$ and shipped them same day.
The part # for the heat exchanger with brackets is 200420. russ@mrcool.us is his email.

Clydo- I installed a 202-m16 pump and it did require modification to the base. Works great.
 
Jan 22, 2008
214
Catalina 310 #147 Oakville Yacht Squadron
I contacted Russ Cromer at Mr.Cool, he arranged to sell me just the brackets as they are not listed separately. Great guy to work with, charged me 71$ and shipped them same day. The part # for the heat exchanger with brackets is 200420. russ@mrcool.us is his email. Clydo- I installed a 202-m16 pump and it did require modification to the base. Works great.
Thanks for the information. I will call them tomorrow.

Not to hijack the thread but talking about the water pump... I have a friend with a machine shop who fabricated an O-ringed cover plate and machined the face of the stock housing to match. My design, her expertise.
 

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Mar 22, 2009
360
Catalina 310 Gulfport Small Craft Harbor, MS
My heat exchanger cracked open yesterday. So will order a new one. Has anyone actually gotten the whole heat exchanger from Mr. Cool? I guess I will email Russ Cromer and see what he can tell me.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Sep 29, 2008
1,930
Catalina 310 #185 Quantico
One more thing

When you install these it is a lot easier to move the stuff out of the back bunk to get access to the back. Then you can use a ratchet with an extension to get the bolts off and on. Highly recommend you go with the newer design that has the straps. I have the factory (? - they came from Torrenson Marine) and the straps are OK. If you are just replacing these you could probably make something better than what comes from the factory (mine were an RCH short).
 
Jan 17, 2013
442
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
My local diesel mechanic suggested to disconnect the raw water intake hose, attach a spare, put it into a bucket of vinegar and start the engine. Run until vinegar is almost gone then shut down and let stand overnight. He claims it is good annual or bi-annual maintenance to keep the heat exchanger clean, remove scale build-up and increase cooling capacity. I did this and it was easy and made my whole boat smell like a salad. Not bad really. Can't say what it did for the heat exchanger but I will likely do this a couple times a year just as a PM item.
bob
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
My local diesel mechanic suggested to disconnect the raw water intake hose, attach a spare, put it into a bucket of vinegar and start the engine. Run until vinegar is almost gone then shut down and let stand overnight. He claims it is good annual or bi-annual maintenance to keep the heat exchanger clean, remove scale build-up and increase cooling capacity. I did this and it was easy and made my whole boat smell like a salad. Not bad really. Can't say what it did for the heat exchanger but I will likely do this a couple times a year just as a PM item.
bob
Based on Maine Sail experiment with vinegar I am very leary. I don't know what kind of build up this mechanic thinks the vinegar will be breaking down. But it did nothing for calcium building up in sanitation hose.

Take the heat exchanger off, bring it to a radiator shop and have them clean it inside and out and pressure test it. Anything else is not likely to be an effective cleaning.
 
Jan 17, 2013
442
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Interesting. With scale removal chemistry it is always a function of concentration and time (along with temp and pH which are not in play here). So in the future I will try to maximize both...
 
May 2, 2012
276
Catalina 310 Toronto, Ontario
Hi All:

I was talking to diesle mechanic this weekend and he suggested using CLR (ceptic tank version). He said what he usually does is unattach the hoses from the engine and fill the heat exchanger with CLR and let is soak, then rinse and re-attach hoses. Has anyone tried this or heard of this type of cleaning.

CHEERS
2 OLD PIRATES
 
Jan 22, 2008
214
Catalina 310 #147 Oakville Yacht Squadron
Hi All: I was talking to diesle mechanic this weekend and he suggested using CLR (ceptic tank version). He said what he usually does is unattach the hoses from the engine and fill the heat exchanger with CLR and let is soak, then rinse and re-attach hoses. Has anyone tried this or heard of this type of cleaning. CHEERS 2 OLD PIRATES
Don't let it soak too long. I had mine out and poured CLR into it and it reacts quite well. This is freshwater; not salt, so I am not sure how it will work for our seaside counterparts
 
May 2, 2012
276
Catalina 310 Toronto, Ontario
Hi Peter:

How long did you soak it for? I've used it on a few other things for 4 or 5 hours and it did the job.
Did you have any problem pulling out your zinc anoid. Mine unscrews but hit the engine mounting bolt, so now I have to cut off about a 1/2" so I can remove it.

Cheers
2 OLD PIRATES

PS. Did you go to QCYC last weekend?
 
Jan 22, 2008
214
Catalina 310 #147 Oakville Yacht Squadron
Hi Peter: How long did you soak it for? I've used it on a few other things for 4 or 5 hours and it did the job. Did you have any problem pulling out your zinc anoid. Mine unscrews but hit the engine mounting bolt, so now I have to cut off about a 1/2" so I can remove it. Cheers 2 OLD PIRATES PS. Did you go to QCYC last weekend?
Sorry, I misled you. I used Lysol Complete toilet bowl cleaner. Plastic pail in the laundry tub. Took both end plates off and squirted in the Lysol. It is very reactive so you shouldn't soak this stuff overnight or any appreciable time. It foamed up and cleaned to shiny copper very quickly. Same with the antifreeze side but I didn't leave it long because the antifreeze side should be clean anyway. Not sure if it would stop at the scale... Actually I do; it was a stainless steel tub and it left a copper deposit on the stainless; so DON'T soak it and DO rinse it well. We also use this stuff on the waterline and it is amazing!!!

I had to break my zinc to get it out. You do need to cut 1/2" or so to clear the tube, but I use magnesium "zinc"'s and they are sacrificial to zinc, so my HX zinc was twice the size of when I installed it. I didn't replace it but just used a 1/4" NPT PLUG.

We haven't been to QCYC, but met Paul J @ OYS when he dropped in while visiting The Oakville Club on the east side of the river. Strange world as it turns out we have a mutual acquaintance who used to own hull 247 and Paul had sailed on it before buying his 310 without knowing it was a 310, or probably even what that meant...

Peter