I have been in the late winter/spring racing mode for several weeks now and I am beginning to believe that I have over powered my Hunter Legend 35 with too much headsail. For the last few races I have use a 135% genoa in winds in the 11 to 22 kt range. When the winds are up I have quite a bit of heal despite reefing the main. In the 10 to 15 kt range I have quite a burble aft of the mainsail luff with the 135 on a point. I am thinking of geting a new 110% or there abouts genoa that is a deck sweep. Read in a sail mag that a sailboat racer had a 115% genoa. Has anyone had any racing experience with the fractional rig Hunter with a sail in the 105 to 115% genoa - other than a standard 110% ?? Which is a better cut, the 105% or the 115% ?? Is a deck sweep 110% a good cut. Robert Dean Pensacola, FL
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Main Sail Luff or "Burble"
Rob, I also had this on my 23 with a 150% jib. It was explained to me by an old salty dog at out club, that the luff, or burble, is caused by the slot between the main and jib is to narrow. The air flowing between the jib and main "slot" is compressing and pushing back on the main sail just aft of the luff. The cure is to move your jib sheet outboard to open the slot, or just slack the jib off a bit, or trim the main in more, and see if your speed picks up?? Hope this helps some. Scott
Rob, I also had this on my 23 with a 150% jib. It was explained to me by an old salty dog at out club, that the luff, or burble, is caused by the slot between the main and jib is to narrow. The air flowing between the jib and main "slot" is compressing and pushing back on the main sail just aft of the luff. The cure is to move your jib sheet outboard to open the slot, or just slack the jib off a bit, or trim the main in more, and see if your speed picks up?? Hope this helps some. Scott
Fraction Rig
I own a 1991 30T (fraction rig), which I have raced localy since it was New. We fly a No1 (155%) up to about 18-20 Kt., then go to a No2 (140%) 28 kt. We also NEVER Reef the main, but we do play the backstay in puffs. Also, try sliding the travler down to get the boat flat. I would not usae a blade (100%) unless the wind is over 30 Knots. Art
I own a 1991 30T (fraction rig), which I have raced localy since it was New. We fly a No1 (155%) up to about 18-20 Kt., then go to a No2 (140%) 28 kt. We also NEVER Reef the main, but we do play the backstay in puffs. Also, try sliding the travler down to get the boat flat. I would not usae a blade (100%) unless the wind is over 30 Knots. Art
Backstays
Art, I have heard of catamaran racers(tornado types) playing the downhaul in puffs:: they actually set the main sheet and live by the downhaul - but the back stay?? Would you elaborate ?? As to sail size, I do not race well with my 155% in winds over 10 kts. My 135% has been used in 18 to 22 kts, but as I stated before, I feel I am over powered (way too much heel) in these winds with the 135. My Hunter 35 is a fractional rig and I work the adjustable backstay to weather, but to play it in puffs - I'm interested in your technique. Robert Dean Sundance HL 35
Art, I have heard of catamaran racers(tornado types) playing the downhaul in puffs:: they actually set the main sheet and live by the downhaul - but the back stay?? Would you elaborate ?? As to sail size, I do not race well with my 155% in winds over 10 kts. My 135% has been used in 18 to 22 kts, but as I stated before, I feel I am over powered (way too much heel) in these winds with the 135. My Hunter 35 is a fractional rig and I work the adjustable backstay to weather, but to play it in puffs - I'm interested in your technique. Robert Dean Sundance HL 35
Condition of Sails?
Draft: When I hear that the boat seems overpowered in winds to 22 knots (is this true or apparent?) the fist thing that comes to mind is sail draft. If the sails are OEM on an older boat then it's a good chance that they have too much draft which will really cause the feeling of being over powered. We have a H-35 and when it was new there was no problem going to weather in 22 to 24 apparent but as the sails got older and drafter I found myself reefing in under 16. With our new 110 (110 was standard) jib and full-batten main the boat is back up to new performance, or better but I prefer the first reef in at 18 and fly the 110. We also have a 150 which really helps in light air but probably shouldn't be regularly flown much above 16 knots, and very little above 18. This depends on the weight and construction of the sail cloth and how often you like to replace it. Above 18 I'd be concerned more about damage from overload. With a luff tape it requires really good crew work to do timely sail changes. When we race we select the sail at the beginning of the race and that's what we generally stay with. There have been times when the winds were generally light and favored the 150 but kicked up over my 18 threshold and we kept it up but I never liked that. Plan headsail changes at the upwind turning mark when the next leg has a flying sail. Trim: Headstay sag will cause overpowering so cranking up on the backstay will reduce sag. Barber hauler: with the perforated toe rail one can use a snatch block and a barber hauler to open up the notch between the jib and the main, and especially in a close reach situation. Propeller: a fixed blade prop will really impare performance and give the feeling of being over-powered. We sail with a PHRF of 123 (!) and do fairly well, even with a shoal draft keel and a boatload of cruising gear. The H-35 is a really good sailing boat.
Draft: When I hear that the boat seems overpowered in winds to 22 knots (is this true or apparent?) the fist thing that comes to mind is sail draft. If the sails are OEM on an older boat then it's a good chance that they have too much draft which will really cause the feeling of being over powered. We have a H-35 and when it was new there was no problem going to weather in 22 to 24 apparent but as the sails got older and drafter I found myself reefing in under 16. With our new 110 (110 was standard) jib and full-batten main the boat is back up to new performance, or better but I prefer the first reef in at 18 and fly the 110. We also have a 150 which really helps in light air but probably shouldn't be regularly flown much above 16 knots, and very little above 18. This depends on the weight and construction of the sail cloth and how often you like to replace it. Above 18 I'd be concerned more about damage from overload. With a luff tape it requires really good crew work to do timely sail changes. When we race we select the sail at the beginning of the race and that's what we generally stay with. There have been times when the winds were generally light and favored the 150 but kicked up over my 18 threshold and we kept it up but I never liked that. Plan headsail changes at the upwind turning mark when the next leg has a flying sail. Trim: Headstay sag will cause overpowering so cranking up on the backstay will reduce sag. Barber hauler: with the perforated toe rail one can use a snatch block and a barber hauler to open up the notch between the jib and the main, and especially in a close reach situation. Propeller: a fixed blade prop will really impare performance and give the feeling of being over-powered. We sail with a PHRF of 123 (!) and do fairly well, even with a shoal draft keel and a boatload of cruising gear. The H-35 is a really good sailing boat.
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