I have an '82 H27. The jib sheets are run off the toe rail. With the roller fured sail I am debating putting tracks on deck so I have a easier control to change sheet position. Has anyone done this? is it worth it for daysailing/weekending?
Headsail track
- Thread starter Mike 1
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As I recall this question over the years the answer is, "yes, it can and has been done". Not sure about easier. What is easier than moving a snatch block six inches fore or aft? The problem is, I think, that standard main sheeting on the H27 does not match up to tight jib sheeting. Unless you have a good traveler you can't get the main to centerline. Thus there is no advantage to pulling the headsail inside the rail. But maybe you have solved that. You could test whether it is worth the expense and holes in the deck with a barber hauler.
I've been pondering the same modification ever since I bought my boat four years ago. As with your 27, the Cherubini H36 was designed for jib sheeting with snatch blocks on the toe rail. The pro/con list always comes down to "its not worth it" for the type of sailing I do:
- Due to other factors such as hull shape and keel depth, I doubt that my boat can ever be made to point like those J-boats that make it all the way out under the Golden Gate Bridge against wind and current on a straight course; while I need to tack while still inside the bay.
- As mentioned by Ed, I have experimented with adding a third line to the jib sheet clew so I can haul it closer to the center line; although with my shrouds located far out near the toe rail the jib/genoa can't be pulled in any further than rubbing against the shrouds. I do have a traveler, so I can adjust the flow through the slot. Maybe I can point a bit better by pulling in the sheet – but its not a slam dunk improvement. Those darn J-boats still were getting under the bridge while I had to tack my way out.
- There's the expense for a mod that might night not give much improvement. Two years ago, my dock neighbor parted out from standard jib tracks to high tech ones, professionally installed, that can be adjusted fore/aft under load from the cockpit. The boat has been out probably 5-10 times since then.
- I really like the look of clean and uncluttered side decks next to the cabin top.
- Holes would need to be drilled in the deck for the jib track mounting. The underside of the deck is covered by the interior liner. Access holes would need to be cut into the liner for backing plates or fender washers. A lot of work and unsightly on the inside.
As Ed commented, the designed toe rail and snatch-block setup works fine for me. In light winds, just letting out the sheet will slacken enough that the snatch block can safely be moved for or aft. In heavier winds, I need to adjust from the windward side before tacking. I'm always crouched down or on hands and knees and holding on firmly when moving out of the cockpit.
I have made some slight changes to the original toe rail design. I'll take some pictures when at my boat today and post later. The jib sheet now has a better lead angle to the winch and the line is not over the deck as much. And I don’t need to worry about losing the expensive-to-replace original snatch blocks either overboard, or to a thief if I don’t stow them away after each sail.
- Due to other factors such as hull shape and keel depth, I doubt that my boat can ever be made to point like those J-boats that make it all the way out under the Golden Gate Bridge against wind and current on a straight course; while I need to tack while still inside the bay.
- As mentioned by Ed, I have experimented with adding a third line to the jib sheet clew so I can haul it closer to the center line; although with my shrouds located far out near the toe rail the jib/genoa can't be pulled in any further than rubbing against the shrouds. I do have a traveler, so I can adjust the flow through the slot. Maybe I can point a bit better by pulling in the sheet – but its not a slam dunk improvement. Those darn J-boats still were getting under the bridge while I had to tack my way out.
- There's the expense for a mod that might night not give much improvement. Two years ago, my dock neighbor parted out from standard jib tracks to high tech ones, professionally installed, that can be adjusted fore/aft under load from the cockpit. The boat has been out probably 5-10 times since then.
- I really like the look of clean and uncluttered side decks next to the cabin top.
- Holes would need to be drilled in the deck for the jib track mounting. The underside of the deck is covered by the interior liner. Access holes would need to be cut into the liner for backing plates or fender washers. A lot of work and unsightly on the inside.
As Ed commented, the designed toe rail and snatch-block setup works fine for me. In light winds, just letting out the sheet will slacken enough that the snatch block can safely be moved for or aft. In heavier winds, I need to adjust from the windward side before tacking. I'm always crouched down or on hands and knees and holding on firmly when moving out of the cockpit.
I have made some slight changes to the original toe rail design. I'll take some pictures when at my boat today and post later. The jib sheet now has a better lead angle to the winch and the line is not over the deck as much. And I don’t need to worry about losing the expensive-to-replace original snatch blocks either overboard, or to a thief if I don’t stow them away after each sail.
Here are the pictures I mentioned in my previous post:
#2012: The jib/genoa sheet comes in from clew on the left. The block is just a standard block with a snap shackle attached to the base for easy release for moving forward/aft along the toe rail as wind and amount of head sail deployment from the roller fuller dictate. If you are lucky at marine flea markets (as I have been), blocks and snap shackles can be had for a mere fraction of the new price. Otherwise, check Garhauer products.
#2013: shows the lead from #2012 to a permanently fixed/located block on the toe rail which then leads at a fine angle to ...
#2014: ... to the primary winch.
I've been sailing with this configuration for 250-300 outings, at least. Works well for me and my Hunter Cherubini 36. One big advantage is that if the jib sheet gets twisted and binds up in a block, its always the #2013 one, which is easily freed while I am still safely in the cockpit.
#2012: The jib/genoa sheet comes in from clew on the left. The block is just a standard block with a snap shackle attached to the base for easy release for moving forward/aft along the toe rail as wind and amount of head sail deployment from the roller fuller dictate. If you are lucky at marine flea markets (as I have been), blocks and snap shackles can be had for a mere fraction of the new price. Otherwise, check Garhauer products.
#2013: shows the lead from #2012 to a permanently fixed/located block on the toe rail which then leads at a fine angle to ...
#2014: ... to the primary winch.
I've been sailing with this configuration for 250-300 outings, at least. Works well for me and my Hunter Cherubini 36. One big advantage is that if the jib sheet gets twisted and binds up in a block, its always the #2013 one, which is easily freed while I am still safely in the cockpit.
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Over the couple of years I have owned my 30 we have played with a couple of different ways to set the blocks for the jib. The one that seems to give the best control and the least work is to use two blocks on each side. I find placing the snap forward and a cheap block back helps. If we want to sheet it inside we run it through both blocks if not we open the snap and let I go out. Since the rear block is always on the line it doesn't have to open.
Also to get the widest possible angle we place the rear block behind the winch nearer the stern. It looks funny and it may add some extra friction but the wider angle seems to offset it.
Oh yeah and on all but the lightest wind days we tack over if we want to open the forward block. I suspect we could open it under load but the shock to the rig and my fingers are important to me. Call me chicken.
Also to get the widest possible angle we place the rear block behind the winch nearer the stern. It looks funny and it may add some extra friction but the wider angle seems to offset it.
Oh yeah and on all but the lightest wind days we tack over if we want to open the forward block. I suspect we could open it under load but the shock to the rig and my fingers are important to me. Call me chicken.
Dear Lampner:
Like me, you have looked for and found an alternative to Hunter's original design ...
But I'll certainly give some consideration to moving my aft fixed block further aft. The configuration of the second block further aft as you have described on your boat is similar to the J-boat and the newer Catalina in the slips either side of me.
Now how about improving our point angle? Probably for me, its a new head sail.
Like me, you have looked for and found an alternative to Hunter's original design ...
But I'll certainly give some consideration to moving my aft fixed block further aft. The configuration of the second block further aft as you have described on your boat is similar to the J-boat and the newer Catalina in the slips either side of me.
Now how about improving our point angle? Probably for me, its a new head sail.
My h27 prefers the jib to be off the spreaders 6-12 inches. Sheeting inside the toe rail is not needed with my set up. The slot between the jib and main really drives the boat. The main prefers to be just off center. If I heal too much I just dump wind off the main by easing the main a bit. If I had a traveller and if I had racing sails I might see the advantage.
I must say the new bottom makes her handle so much different than before. I can't get over how much further we seem to glide, especially when coming back to the slip.
cheers!
I must say the new bottom makes her handle so much different than before. I can't get over how much further we seem to glide, especially when coming back to the slip.
cheers!
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