Neither my mast light or my anchor light worked on my 1974 Hunter 25. I climbed the mast and found that the socket was completely rusted. I removed the light and inspected it. I wanted to keep the same fixture for a few reasons. First I don't want to shell out $50 for a new fixture. Second, I don't want to haul a drill up the mast.(seems like a disaster waiting to happen) Last, I don't believe that 'marine' electrical fittings are much different from regular fittings judging by the rusting light bulb sockets on all of my lights. I inspecting it and realized that it is the same size as a car headlight bulb. I believe that this would consume less electricity because it is halogen, be brighter, and run on the same 12v system. Are any of my assumptions correct? Has anyone ever tried anything like this? Stephen Fierro Captain of Calamity
Headlight
- Thread starter Stephen Fierro
- Start date
- Status
Use the marine stuff
In my humble opinion, I'd stick with marine parts. You want low-wattage in order to save battery. The purpose of the lighting fixtures being to "be seen" instead of illuminating your surroundings, dim bulbs (relative to automotive) should suffice, but should be seen for, I believe, 2 miles to satisfy regs. I just replaced all of my mast lighting this past winter. Used a "Mega Light" for the mast-top anchor light. Very low wattage with a sensor to operate only from dusk to dawn. My steaming light is a regular marine bulb. Before replacing the anchor light, I hauled an LED camping light up the mast...worked great and burned for days on a single change of batteries. I prefer new LED lighting...VERY easy on the batteries...but still too expensive. Good luck with the repairs and/or upgrades.
In my humble opinion, I'd stick with marine parts. You want low-wattage in order to save battery. The purpose of the lighting fixtures being to "be seen" instead of illuminating your surroundings, dim bulbs (relative to automotive) should suffice, but should be seen for, I believe, 2 miles to satisfy regs. I just replaced all of my mast lighting this past winter. Used a "Mega Light" for the mast-top anchor light. Very low wattage with a sensor to operate only from dusk to dawn. My steaming light is a regular marine bulb. Before replacing the anchor light, I hauled an LED camping light up the mast...worked great and burned for days on a single change of batteries. I prefer new LED lighting...VERY easy on the batteries...but still too expensive. Good luck with the repairs and/or upgrades.
two years on a driving light
Two years ago I purchased a 1980 Hunter 33. Neither the steaming light or anchor light worked. I believe the the connection between the mast and the deck is the problem. If the mast is ever unstepped I will check it out. In the mean time an inexpensive small driving light is serving as a steaming light. It works great with much more light than a marine steaming light, with the entire foredeck lit and a relatively good light for docking. The downside is that the wiring is outside the mast and threaded through the forward hatch then back to the switch box. Not a real problem but certainly not standard. I have a spinnaker rig on the mast and the light is attached to the forward ring and lifted high. For an anchor light I use a Mega Light which is strung up the back stay when needed. As far as battery use: the steaming light is only on when the engine is running so a 5 amp draw is not a concern.
Two years ago I purchased a 1980 Hunter 33. Neither the steaming light or anchor light worked. I believe the the connection between the mast and the deck is the problem. If the mast is ever unstepped I will check it out. In the mean time an inexpensive small driving light is serving as a steaming light. It works great with much more light than a marine steaming light, with the entire foredeck lit and a relatively good light for docking. The downside is that the wiring is outside the mast and threaded through the forward hatch then back to the switch box. Not a real problem but certainly not standard. I have a spinnaker rig on the mast and the light is attached to the forward ring and lifted high. For an anchor light I use a Mega Light which is strung up the back stay when needed. As far as battery use: the steaming light is only on when the engine is running so a 5 amp draw is not a concern.
Just remember....
Just remember that if you are ever in any type of collision and violate USCG regs for lighting you may be assumed to be in the wrong. This is not to say that you would be sited but it is something that you may have to defend at a cost that WILL exceed the cost of having regulation equipment. I do not believe that saving $50 today is worth spending $5-10k for a maritime attorney. What do you think?
Just remember that if you are ever in any type of collision and violate USCG regs for lighting you may be assumed to be in the wrong. This is not to say that you would be sited but it is something that you may have to defend at a cost that WILL exceed the cost of having regulation equipment. I do not believe that saving $50 today is worth spending $5-10k for a maritime attorney. What do you think?
Auto' Lamps
An automotive Low Beam headlamp is 50 Watts , whereas a standard 2-Mile Anchor Light uses a 20W lamp.
An automotive Low Beam headlamp is 50 Watts , whereas a standard 2-Mile Anchor Light uses a 20W lamp.
How badly are the connections rusted?
I had corroded connections on most of my electrical fixtures, (boat was sitting in dry dock for two yeats). Nothing wotked until I spray all the corrosion with WD40, all of the electrical lighting, depth finder etc. started to come alive gradually. As far as I know, everything now works perfectly fine.
I had corroded connections on most of my electrical fixtures, (boat was sitting in dry dock for two yeats). Nothing wotked until I spray all the corrosion with WD40, all of the electrical lighting, depth finder etc. started to come alive gradually. As far as I know, everything now works perfectly fine.
Thanx Fred,
you're (almost) right
. The regulations visible distance, not wattage. Most small boat lights come /w 10 watt lamps. Either way, there's no energy-savings associated /w a 650 headlight. Gord
you're (almost) right
. The regulations visible distance, not wattage. Most small boat lights come /w 10 watt lamps. Either way, there's no energy-savings associated /w a 650 headlight. Gord
Gord, you might be interested in the email
exchange I'm having with Dick Kollmann. It's about my refer system. That man is too cool. Opps, no pun intended. I could forward it to you if you want. Just drop me a note from the link on my web site.
exchange I'm having with Dick Kollmann. It's about my refer system. That man is too cool. Opps, no pun intended.
I could forward it to you if you want. Just drop me a note from the link on my web site.Another little trick you might want to try...
is to use the anti-oxidant paste used by electricians for aluminum wire on all the bulb connections that are subject to corrosion. It's available under a bunch of different names, including 'Noalox' (my favorite) or, as most of us sparkies call it, 'Aluma-Gack'. Any decent hardware store should have it or you can get it from an electrical supply house. Clean the corrosion off of the contacts, spread a thin, even coat of this stuff on the contacts and re-install the bulb. I also use it on battery terminals, inside crimp connectors, trailer wiring connectors and anywhere else that corrosion might be a problem. However, remember that the paste is CONDUCTIVE, so don't use it in such a way that you would create a short. A small bottle of this stuff lasts a long time and it doesn't cost much (about $5) so I use it on all kinds of stuff. Just thought I'd share one of my favorite little wiring 'tricks' with ya.... Jeff P.S. Almost forgot, don't get this stuff on your clothes, it stains and won't wash out!
is to use the anti-oxidant paste used by electricians for aluminum wire on all the bulb connections that are subject to corrosion. It's available under a bunch of different names, including 'Noalox' (my favorite) or, as most of us sparkies call it, 'Aluma-Gack'. Any decent hardware store should have it or you can get it from an electrical supply house. Clean the corrosion off of the contacts, spread a thin, even coat of this stuff on the contacts and re-install the bulb. I also use it on battery terminals, inside crimp connectors, trailer wiring connectors and anywhere else that corrosion might be a problem. However, remember that the paste is CONDUCTIVE, so don't use it in such a way that you would create a short. A small bottle of this stuff lasts a long time and it doesn't cost much (about $5) so I use it on all kinds of stuff. Just thought I'd share one of my favorite little wiring 'tricks' with ya.... Jeff P.S. Almost forgot, don't get this stuff on your clothes, it stains and won't wash out!
There's Some Good Input Here
Jeff's comment about anti-oxidant paste is a good one, for example. The type that is used with aluminum and is conductive I've used on single conductor situations to avoid shorting that could occur with multi-conductors. Ox-gard, for example, is another brand sold at Home depot and uses minute copper particles. For multi-conductor connectors a silicone dielectric grease like that used on automotive ignition systems would be better because it is non-conductive. Both types help prevent oxidation and faulty contacts. Where a halogen light bulb is used be careful that no grease of any kind will get on the glass cuz it won't last very long. Steve's comment about visibility requirements and the regulations is good. Why do something almost right, i.e., wrong, when it's so easy to it properly and be in compliance. The money or amp-hrs saved isn't really worth it. It doesn't make cents. Tin coated metals: The best solution to fight corrosion in electrical systems is to change the faulty item out with something that is tin-plated because it will last much longer. Additionally, coat the contacts with the appropriate above mentioned anti-oxidant and your boat will have one less problem to worry about.
Jeff's comment about anti-oxidant paste is a good one, for example. The type that is used with aluminum and is conductive I've used on single conductor situations to avoid shorting that could occur with multi-conductors. Ox-gard, for example, is another brand sold at Home depot and uses minute copper particles. For multi-conductor connectors a silicone dielectric grease like that used on automotive ignition systems would be better because it is non-conductive. Both types help prevent oxidation and faulty contacts. Where a halogen light bulb is used be careful that no grease of any kind will get on the glass cuz it won't last very long. Steve's comment about visibility requirements and the regulations is good. Why do something almost right, i.e., wrong, when it's so easy to it properly and be in compliance. The money or amp-hrs saved isn't really worth it. It doesn't make cents. Tin coated metals: The best solution to fight corrosion in electrical systems is to change the faulty item out with something that is tin-plated because it will last much longer. Additionally, coat the contacts with the appropriate above mentioned anti-oxidant and your boat will have one less problem to worry about.
- Status