First, make sure the hose is source of the odor
That the real culprit isn't wet dirty bilge or sump or trapped water below the sole...Hunters are notorious for that. And I get a lot of calls from people who've replaced their whole sanitation systems trying to get rid of what they thought was "head" odor, when all they really needed to do was clean--really CLEAN, and flush ALL the dirty water out--their bilges and sumps instead of only dumping in more bilge cleaner and/or bleach and calling it done. 'Cuz wet dirty bilges and sumps are a "primordial soup" that can make a whole boat smell like a swamp or even a sewer.To test the hose for permeation, clean a 1-2'low section to remove any odor from another source that's attached itself to the outside of the hose. Wet a clean rag in HOT water...wring it out...wrap it around the hose. When the rag has cooled, remove it, smell it. If the same odor is in the rag, that hose has permeated...bu if you can't smell anything on the rag, that hose is ok. Test all the hoses...use a clean rag for each test. If the tank discharge is at the bottom of the tank, that hose is more likely to be permeated than the hose from the toilet to the tank 'cuz waste sits in it to the level in the tank. So replacing it with hard PVC, at least as high as the top of the tank is a good solution. It's also ok to use hard pipe for any other long straight runs, but too many unions--all of which are potential leakers and "bumps" that can trap waste and sea water minerals to build up--are required in installations where there are a lot of bends.SeaLand "Odorsafe" and Trident 101/102 are the most odor-resistant hoses, but neither is 100% bullet-proof, especially if waste is allowed to sit in 'em or household bowl cleaners, bleach or other chemical cleaners are used. So no matter what hose is used, maintaining the system properly is critical to keep it odor-free and trouble-free. As for where to buy either brand, you'll just have to shop it to find the best prices.