After dealing with some minor trials and tribulations with the head in our 1982 Hunter 27, we decided we want to replace all our hoses and valves. However, since we never anticipate pumping directly over (outside the limits of course if we ever did), we plan to remove the hand pump and its associated plumbing. We'd like to go right from the head to the holding tank, and then from the holding tank to the deck plate (through the vent loop)when it's time to pump out. Has anyone experimented with this, or are there any flaws in this philosophy? Again, we have no plan to ever pump the holding tank overboard. Thanks in advance for your help!!
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
No flaws in your plan
However, if you're in coastal waters with easy access to open sea beyond 3 miles, you MIGHT want to re-think it. Regardless, you might also want to read the articles in the Headmistress forum Reference Library (right side of the forum homepage) before starting your re-plumbing project.
However, if you're in coastal waters with easy access to open sea beyond 3 miles, you MIGHT want to re-think it. Regardless, you might also want to read the articles in the Headmistress forum Reference Library (right side of the forum homepage) before starting your re-plumbing project.
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John Lynch
Hand Pump to Y- Valve
Good decision to replace the entire sanitation system! It took me 2 seconds of indecision to reach the same conclusion. However, we were out of synch with the bi-monthly $35.00 off of Jabsco manual head from West Marine Pirates, and I believe you can take advantage of these savings now. If by hand pump you mean manual macerator pump, you may want to mount a good Y- Valve at the old site to run either from the head directly overboard when you are legal limit and lead the other Y - Valve to the top of the holding tank, leaving the bottom fitting to connect to the deck plate for shore disposal. Use the most expensive hose to eliminate odor. This was my first project last May after i gor her and no problems: just use a hair dryer to soften the tubing and measure twice, hell 3 times then cut. Good Sailing s/v "LOTUS"
Good decision to replace the entire sanitation system! It took me 2 seconds of indecision to reach the same conclusion. However, we were out of synch with the bi-monthly $35.00 off of Jabsco manual head from West Marine Pirates, and I believe you can take advantage of these savings now. If by hand pump you mean manual macerator pump, you may want to mount a good Y- Valve at the old site to run either from the head directly overboard when you are legal limit and lead the other Y - Valve to the top of the holding tank, leaving the bottom fitting to connect to the deck plate for shore disposal. Use the most expensive hose to eliminate odor. This was my first project last May after i gor her and no problems: just use a hair dryer to soften the tubing and measure twice, hell 3 times then cut. Good Sailing s/v "LOTUS"
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
I just re-read this...I missed something the first
time: Do NOT put a vented loop in the line from the tank to the deck pump out. It will prevent the pumpout from being able to prime, preventing the tank from pumping out. Come out of the toilet up and over a loop--it doesn't have to be a vented loop if the head only goes into the tank...just an arch in the hose higher than tank contents can climb over to flow back into the bowl when you're heeled--into a fitting at or on the top of the tank. Come out of the tank discharge fitting that's at (not on) the bottom of the tank and go straight to the deck fitting, without any arches, valves or anything else. Run the vent line off the top of the tank in as short and straight a line as possible to the hull. The only other plumbing you should need is a vented loop in the head INTAKE...and it goes between the pump and the bowl, not between the thru-hull and the pump. If your toilet bowl or any part of it is below the waterline, I strongly recommend you install one. As long as you're taking the plumbing apart, you might want solve the problem of how to rinse sea water out of the system. Check out the article in the HM Reference Library "Intake Odor Cure" for the best solution to that problem I've ever found.
time: Do NOT put a vented loop in the line from the tank to the deck pump out. It will prevent the pumpout from being able to prime, preventing the tank from pumping out. Come out of the toilet up and over a loop--it doesn't have to be a vented loop if the head only goes into the tank...just an arch in the hose higher than tank contents can climb over to flow back into the bowl when you're heeled--into a fitting at or on the top of the tank. Come out of the tank discharge fitting that's at (not on) the bottom of the tank and go straight to the deck fitting, without any arches, valves or anything else. Run the vent line off the top of the tank in as short and straight a line as possible to the hull. The only other plumbing you should need is a vented loop in the head INTAKE...and it goes between the pump and the bowl, not between the thru-hull and the pump. If your toilet bowl or any part of it is below the waterline, I strongly recommend you install one. As long as you're taking the plumbing apart, you might want solve the problem of how to rinse sea water out of the system. Check out the article in the HM Reference Library "Intake Odor Cure" for the best solution to that problem I've ever found.
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John Lynch
Roger that Peggy
I was just about to edit my response but I deferred to your expertise when I re-read his intentions of connecting the deck valve via the vented loop. On 27 Hunter the holding tank lower opening should be connected to the deck plate for pump-out, with the top outlet of the holding tank connected to the Y- Valve, allowing you to go overboard or to the holding tank. Next time I won't be so timid. Good sailing to you s/v "LOTUS"
I was just about to edit my response but I deferred to your expertise when I re-read his intentions of connecting the deck valve via the vented loop. On 27 Hunter the holding tank lower opening should be connected to the deck plate for pump-out, with the top outlet of the holding tank connected to the Y- Valve, allowing you to go overboard or to the holding tank. Next time I won't be so timid. Good sailing to you s/v "LOTUS"
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Tom Hrkach
My Mistake!
Sorry about the confusion about the loop. I must have been tired when I wrote the question! Thanks for your advice on this. I may need some further guidance before this project is done!
Sorry about the confusion about the loop. I must have been tired when I wrote the question! Thanks for your advice on this. I may need some further guidance before this project is done!
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Jim Rice
1-piece head
We changed the porta-potti on our 1980 H27 to a 1-piece head. The bowl sits right on the tank, which is about 9 gals. You have to keep deordorant in there--the flush requires pressure water, but basically is just a ball valve. Thus, "number 1" can go right in (to save storage space or water). (Sorry about the gory details!) All it needed was a vent line and a deck pumpout. Very simple to install. You can find it in the BloatUS or West Marine catalogs. It really cuts down on finding a place for the holding tank, etc.
We changed the porta-potti on our 1980 H27 to a 1-piece head. The bowl sits right on the tank, which is about 9 gals. You have to keep deordorant in there--the flush requires pressure water, but basically is just a ball valve. Thus, "number 1" can go right in (to save storage space or water). (Sorry about the gory details!) All it needed was a vent line and a deck pumpout. Very simple to install. You can find it in the BloatUS or West Marine catalogs. It really cuts down on finding a place for the holding tank, etc.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Excellent system, Jim
What you described is the SeaLand 911-M28 Marine Traveler. It's actually an RV toilet that's really nothing more than a glorified permanently installed large portapotty, but has a real toilet bowl (gravity type) and uses pressurized water to flush instead of its own reservoir. It has only drawback: the tank footprint is approximately 20 x 20...it won't fit in a lot of heads. If it will, it's an excellent alternative to a marine toilet and remote holding tank...'cuz it uses so little flush water that holds the equivilant number of flushes to manual toilet and 18-20 gallon tank.
What you described is the SeaLand 911-M28 Marine Traveler. It's actually an RV toilet that's really nothing more than a glorified permanently installed large portapotty, but has a real toilet bowl (gravity type) and uses pressurized water to flush instead of its own reservoir. It has only drawback: the tank footprint is approximately 20 x 20...it won't fit in a lot of heads. If it will, it's an excellent alternative to a marine toilet and remote holding tank...'cuz it uses so little flush water that holds the equivilant number of flushes to manual toilet and 18-20 gallon tank.
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Tom
Head Refit
A couple of years ago I had a problem with a leaking holding tank. After much trouble got the old one out...full of holes on the hull side. Had a stainless tank built with double the capacity. Tank sits higher now so I built a cupboard to fit in where the shower was. Old tank was under the shower seat. Plumbed to the head with ABS pipe and never a problem or smell. Removed the manual pump (overboard) and capped the thru-hull. We use a vacuum pump to empty the tank via the deck fitting. Hope this helps. Tom
A couple of years ago I had a problem with a leaking holding tank. After much trouble got the old one out...full of holes on the hull side. Had a stainless tank built with double the capacity. Tank sits higher now so I built a cupboard to fit in where the shower was. Old tank was under the shower seat. Plumbed to the head with ABS pipe and never a problem or smell. Removed the manual pump (overboard) and capped the thru-hull. We use a vacuum pump to empty the tank via the deck fitting. Hope this helps. Tom
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