Head/Plumbing Questions

[Chris]

I had plumbing problems last year on my O'Day 30 and am trying to fix them as economically as possible for this season. I've been reading and learning a lot from the forums here and would like any to know of any problems opinions/improvements etc with my plans - thank you in advance!!My Raritan Compact head had a broken cam and plastic lever when I took it apart which certainly lead to some of the troubles. After many discussions with Raritan - to fix a vacuum problem - I'm going to replace the pump with a PHII pump that fits the Compact base and solves the vacuum problem with its air vent. This isn't really known - it upgrades the Compact to a PHII. While I've got the system apart - the hoses need replacing also - I was going to change the configuration also. I've removed the Y valve that sent the waste to either the tank or overboard and plan on piping it to the tank direct. From the tank there is a T that so you could pump out the tank from the deck fitting or use a manual pump to overboard to another seacock. I plan to simplify the system - go right from the head to the tank and then have the option to pump out of go overboard. Cap off the other seacock.Here are what I think are the issues/questions:I recently read that I should have a valve on the discharge end of the tank (discharge is on the bottom of the tank- don't think I can change the tank around) to keep waste out of the hoses --- makes sense and I should have thought of it .....does anyone know of a Y valve that can positively act as a stop valve - known position to stop waste? I don't think I have the space for a stop and Y valve - if I use only a stop valve - is it okay to use a T and split the line coming out of the tank to go to the pump out fitting on the deck and to the manual pump ---it was piped that way before and "seemed" to work okay.Replacing the hoses....is PVC with 45's an alternate to the recommended $8/ft white sanitaton hose? For the pump out line (longest of all) - can I get away with a lesser quality hose? While I want to do it right - I also don't want to break the bank. I assume that the other sanitation hoses work or people wouldn't buy them ....maybe??Thanks for your help.....

 

[Peggie Hall/HeadMistress]

If you spend much time at sea beyond

the "3-mile limit" where you can flush directly overboard, I wouldn't remove the option to do so..why deal with having to dump a tank any more often that absolutely necessary? But, that's your choice...There is no y-valve I know of that's a "left, right, off" valve...only out one side or the other. The only side that really needs to be blocked is the side going to the pump and thru-hull...to allow emergency service to the pump, and as a backup to the seacock.As for using hard PVC, it should only be used for long straight runs, and should be "soft coupled" to anything that's fixed--toilet, tank, pump, thru-hull--with about a foot of hose that acts as a "shock absorber" and protects both the pipe and the things it's connected to against stress as the boat flexes. I don't think you'll gain much by using it in your installation.As for using lesser quality hose than OdorSafe...you can use any quality you want to...it just depends on how often you want to replace it.

 

[Chris]

Head - further clarifications

Peggie - thank you for your response. Point well taken about replacing the Y valve for tank or overboard option. I just thought it might be a scource of clogs - will seriously reconsider putting it back in. Appreciate your thoughts and help....Chris