I just purchased a 1986 Hunter 28.5 and love her. But I know very little about a Head. What is the first recommended task that one do when purchasing a used boat? How do you pump it out to be sure it is clean? I do not have a manual and I am trying to find out how to get a copy of the one someone put on the hunter yahoo group file. How do I retrieve the manua. ? Thanks.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
First, read ALL the articles in...
The Headmistress forum Reference Library (on the forum homepage). Before using the system, pump out the tank and flush it out VERY thoroughly with clean fresh water. The best way to do that is by adding a few gallons of water down the deck pumpout fitting...pump out...add a few more gallons of water...pump out...until the water in the sight glass is clean. Although it really won't do much, if it'll make you feel better, you can put a little Wisk or other low suds detergent down the toilet first. I have no idea how to retrieve the manual, but if there's anything in it pertaining to the head or how to maintain the sanitation system, I'd be surprised.
The Headmistress forum Reference Library (on the forum homepage). Before using the system, pump out the tank and flush it out VERY thoroughly with clean fresh water. The best way to do that is by adding a few gallons of water down the deck pumpout fitting...pump out...add a few more gallons of water...pump out...until the water in the sight glass is clean. Although it really won't do much, if it'll make you feel better, you can put a little Wisk or other low suds detergent down the toilet first. I have no idea how to retrieve the manual, but if there's anything in it pertaining to the head or how to maintain the sanitation system, I'd be surprised.
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Gregg Brock
Owners manual for the h28.5
The folks at the Hunter factory were very helpfull when I purchased my 28.5 last year. I was able to purchase a copy of the owners manual from them. Just connect with the Hunter Marine website and send them an e-mail with the year and model information. They'll give you the address to send your check to. It took about a week for me to get mine and I think it was $25 or $30's. The head in my boat has been maintained pretty well but I've gotten in the habit of inspecting all my lines and connections every month. Try to keep the holding tank pumped out on a regular timed schedule, depending on the use and time of year,this will keep the odors to a minimum. I hope this helps out. Gregg Brock "The Lusty Wench" (85 h28.5)
The folks at the Hunter factory were very helpfull when I purchased my 28.5 last year. I was able to purchase a copy of the owners manual from them. Just connect with the Hunter Marine website and send them an e-mail with the year and model information. They'll give you the address to send your check to. It took about a week for me to get mine and I think it was $25 or $30's. The head in my boat has been maintained pretty well but I've gotten in the habit of inspecting all my lines and connections every month. Try to keep the holding tank pumped out on a regular timed schedule, depending on the use and time of year,this will keep the odors to a minimum. I hope this helps out. Gregg Brock "The Lusty Wench" (85 h28.5)
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Jack
head
The Hunter manual for the 28.5 doesn't have any info on your head. Most likely a Groco. When the boat was delivered new it had all manufacturer manuals included. Contact Groco for a manual. It may have a replacement head so look at it closely then look in the West Marine catalog for it. By the way there really isn't much info in the Hunter manual for the 28.5 since only 5-6 pages dealt specifically with each model. Mostly wiring and plumbig diagrams. Rig tuning can be found on this site. Enjoy your boat
The Hunter manual for the 28.5 doesn't have any info on your head. Most likely a Groco. When the boat was delivered new it had all manufacturer manuals included. Contact Groco for a manual. It may have a replacement head so look at it closely then look in the West Marine catalog for it. By the way there really isn't much info in the Hunter manual for the 28.5 since only 5-6 pages dealt specifically with each model. Mostly wiring and plumbig diagrams. Rig tuning can be found on this site. Enjoy your boat
Probably a Wilcox Crittenden head.
Lori: I am not sure but I think that Hunter was using W-C heads during these years. I assume that you are refering to pump out the tank? Never the less, when you use the head, you want to be sure that you flip the lever to bring in an adequate amount of water for a complete flush. Be sure that you have pumped you bowl totally dry. This is just a matter of moving the lever from the "wet" position (usually horizontal) to the "dry" position (usually vertical). You want to move the waste into the holding tank. If is a good habit to turn off the thru hull for the fresh water intake everytime you use your head but this may not be practicle. Be sure that you turn it off when you leave the boat. This is a good way to flood your boat if the head fails. When you pump the holding tank it is a matter of switching the "Y" valve to the deck discharge position and then pumping the tank until there is no more suction. Then rinse the tank with 3-5 gallons of fresh water. Rinse out the vent for the tank too. The vent can often get plugged with all sorts of stuff from bugs to holding tank waste. Alway flush the vent EVERY TIME you pump your holding tank. Then pump it until the pump is no longer sucking. Then you need to replentish your tank with the chemicals of your choice.
Lori: I am not sure but I think that Hunter was using W-C heads during these years. I assume that you are refering to pump out the tank? Never the less, when you use the head, you want to be sure that you flip the lever to bring in an adequate amount of water for a complete flush. Be sure that you have pumped you bowl totally dry. This is just a matter of moving the lever from the "wet" position (usually horizontal) to the "dry" position (usually vertical). You want to move the waste into the holding tank. If is a good habit to turn off the thru hull for the fresh water intake everytime you use your head but this may not be practicle. Be sure that you turn it off when you leave the boat. This is a good way to flood your boat if the head fails. When you pump the holding tank it is a matter of switching the "Y" valve to the deck discharge position and then pumping the tank until there is no more suction. Then rinse the tank with 3-5 gallons of fresh water. Rinse out the vent for the tank too. The vent can often get plugged with all sorts of stuff from bugs to holding tank waste. Alway flush the vent EVERY TIME you pump your holding tank. Then pump it until the pump is no longer sucking. Then you need to replentish your tank with the chemicals of your choice.
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Peggie Hall/Headmistress
One vote for Groco, one for W.C....
I'm fairly certain that by '86, Hunter was using Jabsco. However, ALL piston/cylinder pumps work the same way, so Steve's directions are as good for one as for another. Some dry/flush valves are levers, some are knobs...some are labeled "wet/dry" instead of "flush dry...but they all do the same thing too. However, sooner or later you'll need a kit for it...so you do need to find out what it is, 'cuz kits are not "one-size-fits all" generics. Compare it with photos of the various manual toilets in the marine catalogs and toilets on the shelves when you're in a boat store, and you shouldn't have too much trouble figuring out which one you have.
I'm fairly certain that by '86, Hunter was using Jabsco. However, ALL piston/cylinder pumps work the same way, so Steve's directions are as good for one as for another. Some dry/flush valves are levers, some are knobs...some are labeled "wet/dry" instead of "flush dry...but they all do the same thing too. However, sooner or later you'll need a kit for it...so you do need to find out what it is, 'cuz kits are not "one-size-fits all" generics. Compare it with photos of the various manual toilets in the marine catalogs and toilets on the shelves when you're in a boat store, and you shouldn't have too much trouble figuring out which one you have.
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Claude L.-Auger
Sealander 752
My 86 28.5 was equipped with a Sealander Model 752. I don't believe they are still in business. I m9ight have some info and if you're patient some time next week I'll try to dig it up for you. Won't be much help as I don't know where you would get the parts.
My 86 28.5 was equipped with a Sealander Model 752. I don't believe they are still in business. I m9ight have some info and if you're patient some time next week I'll try to dig it up for you. Won't be much help as I don't know where you would get the parts.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
SeaLand is still in business...
they make the VacuFlush toilet. However, they haven't made manual toilets for about 15 years...you must have gotten one of the last ones they made. They discontinued all parts for the 752 nearly 10 years ago. Jabsco offers a "universal" rebuild kit that fits several obsolete toilets including the Mansfield/SeaLand 751 and 752 and the Brydon Boy (obsolete for at least as long as the 752)...but I don't recommend putting ANY money into a "budget" toilet that old. The pump cylinder walls are so worn--and worn out of round--by now that new seals aren't likely to seal very well if at all, and hardware parts--which are no longer available can fail at any time.
they make the VacuFlush toilet. However, they haven't made manual toilets for about 15 years...you must have gotten one of the last ones they made. They discontinued all parts for the 752 nearly 10 years ago. Jabsco offers a "universal" rebuild kit that fits several obsolete toilets including the Mansfield/SeaLand 751 and 752 and the Brydon Boy (obsolete for at least as long as the 752)...but I don't recommend putting ANY money into a "budget" toilet that old. The pump cylinder walls are so worn--and worn out of round--by now that new seals aren't likely to seal very well if at all, and hardware parts--which are no longer available can fail at any time.
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