I would like to replace all of my head hoses in one shot anyone know the aprox amount of hose i would need? and which hose should I use? boat is a 1984 h31 with a graco hf head standard hose setup divervalve under vberth and offshore thru hull in head. thanks Mike
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You want Sealand hose.
Sealand is the best. It is not inexpensive so measure or be sure of the lengths and diameters. Be prepared to use some choice cuss words or however you deal with serious frustration. Getting the old ones off will turn you gray. Putting the new ones on is worse. I used a heat gun even though Peggy says you should not.
Sealand is the best. It is not inexpensive so measure or be sure of the lengths and diameters. Be prepared to use some choice cuss words or however you deal with serious frustration. Getting the old ones off will turn you gray. Putting the new ones on is worse. I used a heat gun even though Peggy says you should not.
I disagree, Ed
First, SeaLand has more than one hose...their cheaper stuff ain't worth a nickel. So I assume you're referring to SeaLand's "OdorSafe" brand...which is ONE of the most odor-rsistant hose, but it's NOT bullet-proof. In fact,I 've personally been on at least half a dozen boats on which it had failed, and heard of many more. However, it is better than any other hose EXCEPT Trident 101/102 http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm It's a double-walled rubber hose (only difference between 101 and 102 is the color) that has a biocide in the rubber formula. In the 5 years or so it's been on the market, I've yet to hear of a single odor permeation failure. Plus, OdorSafe is stiff as an ironing board, Trident is softer and much easier to work with. OdorSafe and Trident 101/102 are about the same list price--around $9/ft...I've found a source for the Trident for
First, SeaLand has more than one hose...their cheaper stuff ain't worth a nickel. So I assume you're referring to SeaLand's "OdorSafe" brand...which is ONE of the most odor-rsistant hose, but it's NOT bullet-proof. In fact,I 've personally been on at least half a dozen boats on which it had failed, and heard of many more. However, it is better than any other hose EXCEPT Trident 101/102 http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm It's a double-walled rubber hose (only difference between 101 and 102 is the color) that has a biocide in the rubber formula. In the 5 years or so it's been on the market, I've yet to hear of a single odor permeation failure. Plus, OdorSafe is stiff as an ironing board, Trident is softer and much easier to work with. OdorSafe and Trident 101/102 are about the same list price--around $9/ft...I've found a source for the Trident for
I bow to the Head Mistress.
That's the problem with being on this board so long. When I did my head project back in the dark ages you insisted that I use Sealand. And I did forget the "OdorSafe" part. So now there is something better. I am certainly happy to be corrected, especially if the Trident stuff bends! By the way, the seven year old Sealand hose on Ladylove is still white and odor free.
That's the problem with being on this board so long. When I did my head project back in the dark ages you insisted that I use Sealand. And I did forget the "OdorSafe" part. So now there is something better. I am certainly happy to be corrected, especially if the Trident stuff bends! By the way, the seven year old Sealand hose on Ladylove is still white and odor free.
More Info Please
Hi Mike, One question would help me in giving you advice. Does your Hunter 31 have a macerator? If not, you will use less hose. We used around 40 feet of Sealand Odor-Safe hose, and 1 foot of Odor Safe Trident in our 87 Hunter 31. I am sure both boats are similar, just a different year. You will need a new "Y" piece, or a 3-way valve, and a reducer from 1 1/2" down to 1". The most valuable tool will be a Heat Gun, and some liquid soap. The hose itself is very hard to work with due to it's not wanting to bend at 45 degree angles. You should also use double hose clamps on all of your connections. It took me most of a 3 day weekend to get the old stuff out, and the new hose cut to length and installed. The worse part is getting the old stuff out. Don't try to be cheap, take it ALL out. I would be glad to give you step by step instructions on this project if you want. Just contact me at: robt.syl@sbcglobal.net Regards, Robert the River Sailor
Hi Mike, One question would help me in giving you advice. Does your Hunter 31 have a macerator? If not, you will use less hose. We used around 40 feet of Sealand Odor-Safe hose, and 1 foot of Odor Safe Trident in our 87 Hunter 31. I am sure both boats are similar, just a different year. You will need a new "Y" piece, or a 3-way valve, and a reducer from 1 1/2" down to 1". The most valuable tool will be a Heat Gun, and some liquid soap. The hose itself is very hard to work with due to it's not wanting to bend at 45 degree angles. You should also use double hose clamps on all of your connections. It took me most of a 3 day weekend to get the old stuff out, and the new hose cut to length and installed. The worse part is getting the old stuff out. Don't try to be cheap, take it ALL out. I would be glad to give you step by step instructions on this project if you want. Just contact me at: robt.syl@sbcglobal.net Regards, Robert the River Sailor
there is a way to replace with standard PVC pipe
See the link below. It describes how a replacement was made in an H31 with regular hard PVC and fittings that you can get in any home improvement store. PVC is both cheaper and less permiable than any flexible hose. This is one of my projects this season, and for the last 2 seasons as well. Maybe I'll get to it this year!
See the link below. It describes how a replacement was made in an H31 with regular hard PVC and fittings that you can get in any home improvement store. PVC is both cheaper and less permiable than any flexible hose. This is one of my projects this season, and for the last 2 seasons as well. Maybe I'll get to it this year!
Hinkley
now uses PVC in their boats, I'm told. Mike, I'm doing the same thing and am just measuring the hose I take out. One realy foul thing I noticed pulling the hose out is there is a fair amount of waste that remains in the low spots. After being layed up all winter it was pretty foul, believe me. Randy
now uses PVC in their boats, I'm told. Mike, I'm doing the same thing and am just measuring the hose I take out. One realy foul thing I noticed pulling the hose out is there is a fair amount of waste that remains in the low spots. After being layed up all winter it was pretty foul, believe me. Randy
Sanitation hose
A few years ago, I replaced all but a few feet of the hose on my boat with schedule 40 PVC. Not too difficult and cheaper than Trident. Otherwise, I used Trident in some inaccessable places. The process is in the archives. No smell at all. It's right to completely gut all the old hose out, clean everywhere, then put in all new.
A few years ago, I replaced all but a few feet of the hose on my boat with schedule 40 PVC. Not too difficult and cheaper than Trident. Otherwise, I used Trident in some inaccessable places. The process is in the archives. No smell at all. It's right to completely gut all the old hose out, clean everywhere, then put in all new.
When I replaced my hose with PVC
I used a wet/dry vac to suck all the nasty water out of the horizontal runs before removing. I also did about 3 flushes of the holding tank before starting the project which helped keep the odors down. The only run I didn't replace was about 2 feet of the vertical run to deck pump out. I was odor free last summer after this project (the boat smells were almost unbearable before this). The PVC wasn't that hard to do - I did the whole project myself. Also replaced the head with a PHII - can't say enough good things about the PHII, it'll pump just about anything you can throw at it. My new Hunter uses PVC pipe from the head discharge to the holding tank so it looks like the manufactures are going this way.
I used a wet/dry vac to suck all the nasty water out of the horizontal runs before removing. I also did about 3 flushes of the holding tank before starting the project which helped keep the odors down. The only run I didn't replace was about 2 feet of the vertical run to deck pump out. I was odor free last summer after this project (the boat smells were almost unbearable before this). The PVC wasn't that hard to do - I did the whole project myself. Also replaced the head with a PHII - can't say enough good things about the PHII, it'll pump just about anything you can throw at it. My new Hunter uses PVC pipe from the head discharge to the holding tank so it looks like the manufactures are going this way.
One correction
The PO had installed sealand between the head discharge and holding tank. I left this section alone since there didn't seem to be any ordors coming from here. It's the section that goes from the holding tank to the deck pumpout that was the culprit since this section always has stagnant brown water present. It may be easier to use a combination of hose and PVC if you're doing the whole job.
The PO had installed sealand between the head discharge and holding tank. I left this section alone since there didn't seem to be any ordors coming from here. It's the section that goes from the holding tank to the deck pumpout that was the culprit since this section always has stagnant brown water present. It may be easier to use a combination of hose and PVC if you're doing the whole job.
Helpful Hint::
I have one small helpful hint to add to all of this fantastic advice: when I started this project last year, a couple wise and knowledgeable Forum members suggested enlarging the holding tank access door beneath the V-berth, and that saved me a LOT of scrapes, bruises and blasphemy (I still experienced PLENTY of all of those things by the end of the project, but a lot less than I would have otherwise). I just cut out a much larger rectangle around the existing door, and then made a new 'door' out of fabric that snaps into place at the corners, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions. Good luck. RJ
I have one small helpful hint to add to all of this fantastic advice: when I started this project last year, a couple wise and knowledgeable Forum members suggested enlarging the holding tank access door beneath the V-berth, and that saved me a LOT of scrapes, bruises and blasphemy (I still experienced PLENTY of all of those things by the end of the project, but a lot less than I would have otherwise). I just cut out a much larger rectangle around the existing door, and then made a new 'door' out of fabric that snaps into place at the corners, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions. Good luck. RJ
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