Has anybody out there come up with an 'easier' way to replace the hoses from the holding tank to the head and to the pump out fitting? Like maybe using lubricants, or a heat gun, or possibly a hand grenade? On my H31, the darn things are VERY inacessable, and the hoses themselves are pretty dang stiff, and difficult to work with. Thanks in advance, Rick J
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A heat gun and a lot of cuss
words, sometimes a hack saw and wire snips, that's how I've always done it.
words, sometimes a hack saw and wire snips, that's how I've always done it.
Head hose
To remove, just use cardboard box knife and side cutter if the hose is reinforced. To insert, I use liquid soap and heat gun and a lot of time to heat it slowly. Boil the hose in a pot of water is much easier but you can only do one end.
To remove, just use cardboard box knife and side cutter if the hose is reinforced. To insert, I use liquid soap and heat gun and a lot of time to heat it slowly. Boil the hose in a pot of water is much easier but you can only do one end.
Of course use heat, lubricant etc
Warming hoses make it a lot easier to get hoses off fittings...warming them--but don't OVERheat 'em!--along with some dishwashing liquid, or better yet K-Y, makes it a lot easier to to get 'em onto fittings. They should go on relatively easily when warmed and lubricated...if they don't, check the outer diameter of the fitting. Gray PVC fittings have an OD of 1 5/8", which makes 'em just about impossible to get a hose onto without damaging the hose...if that's what you have, buy fittings that have 1.5" barb. Never heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend...that will damage the hose and cause it to kink or tear on the outside of the bend. Instead, cut the hose and use an inline radius fitting. Or replace a straight fitting with a 90. Do not use any sealant on sanitation hose connections...only water soluble lubricant and two hose clamps. The screws on the clamps should be on opposite sides of the hose.
Warming hoses make it a lot easier to get hoses off fittings...warming them--but don't OVERheat 'em!--along with some dishwashing liquid, or better yet K-Y, makes it a lot easier to to get 'em onto fittings. They should go on relatively easily when warmed and lubricated...if they don't, check the outer diameter of the fitting. Gray PVC fittings have an OD of 1 5/8", which makes 'em just about impossible to get a hose onto without damaging the hose...if that's what you have, buy fittings that have 1.5" barb. Never heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend...that will damage the hose and cause it to kink or tear on the outside of the bend. Instead, cut the hose and use an inline radius fitting. Or replace a straight fitting with a 90. Do not use any sealant on sanitation hose connections...only water soluble lubricant and two hose clamps. The screws on the clamps should be on opposite sides of the hose.
H31_83-87 Holding Tank Head hose replacement
On my H31 1987 the access under the V berth was a 12"X12" trimed hole with a door. I nearly killed myself getting hoses in and out. The next time I worked on the hoses I removed the door and trim and then used a router to cut the access hole about 18" across the top and down 6". Made working on the hoses and installing a macerator pump and thru hull very easy. I did not replace the trim or make a new door. I had an upholstery shop make me a fabric screen that I snaps over the hole, allows easy access, looks neat, and allows ventilation under the V berth. If you are replacing the hoses, I would suggest that you look in the archives and consider rigid PVC piping as much as possible. After reading all of the articles and one guy included a complete set of pictures and proceedures, that will how I replace my hoses next time. In the archives, the author "Patrick Lombard" Bridgeport, CT, 12/16/2006, 06:22AM is a Photo Forum on installing rigid PVC in a H31. bill
On my H31 1987 the access under the V berth was a 12"X12" trimed hole with a door. I nearly killed myself getting hoses in and out. The next time I worked on the hoses I removed the door and trim and then used a router to cut the access hole about 18" across the top and down 6". Made working on the hoses and installing a macerator pump and thru hull very easy. I did not replace the trim or make a new door. I had an upholstery shop make me a fabric screen that I snaps over the hole, allows easy access, looks neat, and allows ventilation under the V berth. If you are replacing the hoses, I would suggest that you look in the archives and consider rigid PVC piping as much as possible. After reading all of the articles and one guy included a complete set of pictures and proceedures, that will how I replace my hoses next time. In the archives, the author "Patrick Lombard" Bridgeport, CT, 12/16/2006, 06:22AM is a Photo Forum on installing rigid PVC in a H31. bill
H31_83-87 Holding Tank Head Hoses Ridgid PVC
I could not get the "link" to work, but you can get there through the archives. I printed out the entire forum for my future reference! Thank You - Patrick Lombard of Bridgeport, CT Bill
I could not get the "link" to work, but you can get there through the archives. I printed out the entire forum for my future reference! Thank You - Patrick Lombard of Bridgeport, CT Bill
Thanks!
Thanks everyone for the prompt and extremely informative responses. And thanks especially to Bill for the link, and the idea to enlarge the access panel... I still have scars from the last time I needed to go under the V-berth to clear a 'clog' left by one of my guests a few years ago. Thanks again- Rick J
Thanks everyone for the prompt and extremely informative responses. And thanks especially to Bill for the link, and the idea to enlarge the access panel... I still have scars from the last time I needed to go under the V-berth to clear a 'clog' left by one of my guests a few years ago. Thanks again- Rick J
Large door available from H and L Marine
Rick: You can get a larger door from H&L Marine in Rancho Domiquez, CA. When I had my 31 I was always going to do this, but never got around to it. H & L Marine Woodwork, Inc. 2965 E. Harcourt Rancho Dominguez, CA 90221 Tel: (323) 636-1718 Fax: (323) 636-1720
Rick: You can get a larger door from H&L Marine in Rancho Domiquez, CA. When I had my 31 I was always going to do this, but never got around to it. H & L Marine Woodwork, Inc. 2965 E. Harcourt Rancho Dominguez, CA 90221 Tel: (323) 636-1718 Fax: (323) 636-1720
ABS and PVC
I use rigid ABS, the black stuff, with short length of hose on ends so it can flex. ABS is stronger and will never peameate. I used it for the pump out. White PVC looks better but less strong so I used it for head to tank. In either case you can use heat gun to "bend" it a little. Fill the pipe with sand so you can keep the shape without kinking.
I use rigid ABS, the black stuff, with short length of hose on ends so it can flex. ABS is stronger and will never peameate. I used it for the pump out. White PVC looks better but less strong so I used it for head to tank. In either case you can use heat gun to "bend" it a little. Fill the pipe with sand so you can keep the shape without kinking.
Heat Gun
Works like a charm, I would never use ridged pipe, unless it was an emegency repair and thats all that was availibal. I install PVC in the ground for a living and its just to brittel under stress.
Works like a charm, I would never use ridged pipe, unless it was an emegency repair and thats all that was availibal. I install PVC in the ground for a living and its just to brittel under stress.
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