Head door won't close S2 8.5

jguyer

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Sep 16, 2010
41
S2 8.5 Milwaukee
The door to my head won't close. After 3 years of owning my boat the geometry of the door is so off that it won't close! The pressure from the compression post has pushed into the deck almost a quarter of an inch. Not good! My boat is in the water and my mast is up. I have cursing plans for the summer, but I am afraid to tighten my rigging. Should I tighten the rig and hope for the best or do I dig into this issue?
 

SG

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Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
Quote: The pressure from the compression post has pushed into the deck almost a quarter of an inch

It's not clear to me what you meant.
Do you mean that the deck is crushed (upward) from below? Do you have some pictures?
Is the compression post resting on a wood block. Is that piece of wood rotting?
Let's see if we can understand what's happening, find a fix for it, stop the cursing, and you can get cruising :^))).

This is picture from an S2 8.5 I yanked off the web. Is the compression post buried in the bulkhead wall to the port of the flip down dining table.



 

jguyer

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Sep 16, 2010
41
S2 8.5 Milwaukee
Thanks for the fast response!! The compression post and the bulkhead wall are pushed into the cabin floor. There is an indent around the post and the bulkhead. Luckily the wood block and 3 layers of 3/4 inch plywood under the compression post are in good shape!
The problem seems to be that the 1/4 inch teak and holly floor under the post/bulkhead have rotted. This allowed the post and the bulkhead to push down enough to change the geometry of the doorway to the head.
 

Johnb

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Jan 22, 2008
1,421
Hunter 37-cutter Richmond CA
Have courage, this may be easier than you think. A friend solved a similar problem by slackening the rigging, then using a hydraulic car jack to with a 2x4 on it to "raise the roof", then dig out the rotted stuff and epoxy in a new base made of epoxy sheet. If it is just local rot and not a beam or something similar gone bad that may work for you.
 

SG

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Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
I would add to John's suggestions the following observation: First, I'd ease the rigging only enough to get the post up into position. Secondly, I think it would be good to make sure that the wood under the post is epoxied so it will not subsquently rot from above or below. Thirdly, you might be able to get away with digging out the rot and replacing the material with epoxy -- but you might have to cut-it out and replace it completely under the post. I'd seal the base of the wood post too.

Finally, you need the rot cleaned-out, the fungus or mold cleaened-out, and the wood dried. After you use chisel, spoon, wire brush, picks, etc. to dig-out the rot, I'd attack with a hair dryer, then use some rubbing alcohol to help dry it out and clean it, then more hair dryer, and then use a West expoxy and a trowel. As long as the epoxy isn't exposed to sunlight, you may not need to paint it. If you can see it from above, you should put something in ut to keep the UV from degrading it. Paint or some wood trim would work.

Oh -- is the reason that the wood rotted-out was because of moisture from above or because it's collecting in the head bulkhead area from the shower? You should see about clean-up that issue while it's "assholes and elbows" time as you become one with your sole (however it might be spelled).
 

jguyer

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Sep 16, 2010
41
S2 8.5 Milwaukee
I did some digging. Literally.... I used a hydraulic jack and a prybar to push up my compression post. I loosened the rigging as I went. There is 1/4 inch of teak and holly flooring that was rotted under he compression post and bulkhead. There is a 'sub floor under the compression is 3 3/4 inch layers of plywood then there is a hard wood 2 by 4 attached to the hull. Luckily the sub floor is laminated and not rotted!!!
I will attempt to upload a picture.
I cut out all the rotted wood and dried underneath.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,399
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
S2 made some good boats. Unfortunately, the smaller ones were seemingly lacking in some designs such as this. I've had three. The 9.2C that had some issues and two 11.0a s..The last one being my current boat. I think when they started building 11.0, they had issues worked out. The 9.2C is a center cockpit and the steering cables came through the cockpit sole and down to the hull to turning blocks. The blocks were lagged into 2X4s which were glassed to the hull. When everything was tightened up, the blocks were under tension and one block pulled up at the most inopportune time...(Deception Pass). They seemed to have liked their 2x4s...The 36 and maybe the 35/34 possibly had those kinks worked out. The 11.0 has a keel stepped mast which is well stepped and no 2X4s...best of luck in your repair and I would give serious consideration to that 2x4 on the hull. Its all wood and it compresses and rots....
 

SG

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Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
I'd make sure that after you get the rot out, dry everything out, that if there's wood exposed down there that you seal it with west epoxy, you can get a simple plastic trowel that allows you do smooth it out.

Make sure you have the boat ventilated as the epoxy "kicks". If you're in doubt, get a fan.