HDPE

[Shoaldrafter]

I have received a question as to sources of HDPE and other plastics that are useable to create replacement for Teak trim. Ordinary HDPE is not UV resistant so will deteriorate in time. I have another boat with this material for ten years and it shows no problems. Of course using plain colors will not please those who want a nautical appearance. But some high dollar boats are being made with wood look alike plastic today.

There are many sources.

I use a local plastics supply:

http://www.dixierubber.com/

I got the idea for using plastic to replace teak from a boat builder and a guy who sold teak like plastic at Annapolis boat show:

http://www.plasteak.com/osc/

These guys advertize a marine grade HDPE:

http://www.rmplastic.com/Marine Plastic.htm

Previous discussions on this forum have mentioned other suppliers so check the yellow pages and search the web.

Ed K
26

 

[DannyS]

This is what I'm using...
http://www.timbertech.com/products/decking-planks/earthwood/default.aspx
Look at their Earthwoods collection, they have one called teak and it looks great. I'm replacing my handrails, toerail caps and eyebrow piece. I made stair treads for my swim ladder several years ago and they still look great. You can order it from Home Depot.

 

[Joe11688]

One of the guys in my club, Wayne who owns a Seaward 22, swears by this stuff. He's been using it for a few years now and plans on getting rid of all of his wood eventually. I can't blame him. I'm getting tired of wood and all it's problems.
Joe

 

[emergpa1]

One of the guys in my club, Wayne who owns a Seaward 22, swears by this stuff. He's been using it for a few years now and plans on getting rid of all of his wood eventually. I can't blame him. I'm getting tired of wood and all it's problems.
Joe

Even me,,,i was very careful with refinishing my teak, especially since i am a wood finish freak. even with all that, and with having touched up once this season, i am looking at an extensive refinish job at the end of the season. I am wanting the look of wood without the hassel. but i will not give up the look.
I think my main problem is that the wood was so advanced in it's grey sun damaged condition that i was not able to get the grey out of the cracks and crevices of the teak. that is the surface, the small areas through out the teak that still have the grey, there i am getting breakthrough of finish, with its moisture absorption and subsequent cetol breakdown.

keith:neutral:

 

[Shoaldrafter]

methology

Even me,,,i was very careful with refinishing my teak, especially since i am a wood finish freak. even with all that, and with having touched up once this season, i am looking at an extensive refinish job at the end of the season. I am wanting the look of wood without the hassel. but i will not give up the look.
I think my main problem is that the wood was so advanced in it's grey sun damaged condition that i was not able to get the grey out of the cracks and crevices of the teak. that is the surface, the small areas through out the teak that still have the grey, there i am getting breakthrough of finish, with its moisture absorption and subsequent cetol breakdown.

keith:neutral:

It was said about teak trim on a boat, "I think my main problem is that the wood was so advanced in it's grey sun damaged condition that i was not able to get the grey out of the cracks and crevices of the teak. that is the surface, the small areas through out the teak that still have the grey, there i am getting breakthrough of finish, with its moisture absorption and subsequent cetol breakdown."

Rather it has to do with Liberal methodogy and rum. Cetol is what it is, a temporary or yearly finish. A multipart ureothane with UV additives should last about four years if correctly applied even in Alabama. Also cracks and crevices need to have estabished mild killed and removed, otherwise it keeps comming back even under cetol. Try soaking wood in automotive antifreeze then letting it fully dry before application of finish.

However, amount spent on new teak would have supplied entire good old boat with new plastic trim, even from the wood look alike suppliers. But keep in mind those guys know that they are selling to sailboaters who have deep pockets.

Whereas, conventional white or black HDPE is cheap, or affordable to the do it yourselfer. And it works like medium hard wood. And no fear about screwing up one piece because of cost. $5.00 instead of $100.00 to those not of a liberal kind is a big difference.

Ed K
26

 

[Maine Sail]

Guys please be careful using any HDPE that needs to be bedded or sealed to the deck to prevent moisture ingress. Noting likes to stick to it and it has different expansion/contraction than fiberglass, especially with long lengths, that can break a bedded seal in a rather short time.

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Excellent point

Guys please be careful using any HDPE that needs to be bedded or sealed to the deck to prevent moisture ingress. Noting likes to stick to it and it has different expansion/contraction than fiberglass, especially with long lengths, that can break a bedded seal in a rather short time.

Thank you Maine Sail,

Excellent point. When attaching to a boat, I seal or bed the holding screws and not the HDPE.

However, I have seen people make mast bases and deck hardware bases out of HDPE and your comment about most sealants not sticking would be important.

There is a technique called 'flamming' the surface that might enhance the adhesion of sealants. It is supposed to take gloss off HDPE.

Someone might ask the manufacturers of those plastic wood substitutes for technicques of best application.

Ed K
26

 

[emergpa1]

It was said about teak trim on a boat, "I think my main problem is that the wood was so advanced in it's grey sun damaged condition that i was not able to get the grey out of the cracks and crevices of the teak. that is the surface, the small areas through out the teak that still have the grey, there i am getting breakthrough of finish, with its moisture absorption and subsequent cetol breakdown."

Rather it has to do with Liberal methodogy and rum. Cetol is what it is, a temporary or yearly finish. A multipart ureothane with UV additives should last about four years if correctly applied even in Alabama. Also cracks and crevices need to have estabished mild killed and removed, otherwise it keeps comming back even under cetol. Try soaking wood in automotive antifreeze then letting it fully dry before application of finish.

However, amount spent on new teak would have supplied entire good old boat with new plastic trim, even from the wood look alike suppliers. But keep in mind those guys know that they are selling to sailboaters who have deep pockets.

Whereas, conventional white or black HDPE is cheap, or affordable to the do it yourselfer. And it works like medium hard wood. And no fear about screwing up one piece because of cost. $5.00 instead of $100.00 to those not of a liberal kind is a big difference.

Ed K
26

Well, ed, I think your CONSERVATIVE approach to using white or black HDPE has it's few weak merrits, but is often SHORT SIGHTED and SELF DEFEATING and is BASED ON FEAR of not being able to finish your teak properly or of having someone remove you teak from your boat and use it for themselves. I believe that a more LIBERAL aproach based on the RATIONAL evaluation of the FACTS regarding teak lumber, cetol, and PROGESSIVE layering of the finish will yield far more beautiful and lasting results that can benefit many people instead of the corporate few.
Of course I know that many large multi-national companies regard those that use HDPE on their sailboats to be their unknowing misguided accomplices.
Keith