Great thanksGet a spray lube. Spray from the outside of the sea cocks while someone operates them from the inside. Add a second anchor locker drain, say 4 inches above the OEM one. Clean nav light contact areas, maybe a bit of the proper grease on them? Check anchor roller for proper operation- replace if needed.
If you have a folding or feathering prop I would check it for excessive wear. Also check the keel for blisters or areas where the epoxy coating is not bonded to the cast iron keel.Besides the bottom paint, zincs maybe cutlass bearing, any thing I should look at or do (California ocean boat) boat is 20 years old
Oops a couple more: check the rudder for both excessive wear on the bearing and potentially moisture.Besides the bottom paint, zincs maybe cutlass bearing, any thing I should look at or do (California ocean boat) boat is 20 years old
Oh, that's something new for me! Never though about it before. Why when on the keel? Is it because the stress is no the keel rather than on the bolts so they may tighten even more?When she's on her keel, tighten the keel bolts as much as you can- or have the yard do it with a torque wrench.
Correct. In the water, if you try to tighten the bolts, you are, in effect, trying to lift the weight of the keel.... Why when on the keel? Is it because the stress is no(w on) the keel rather than on the bolts so they may tighten even more?
Some advice from a professional hull cleaner- Don't let the yard talk you into just a single coat of paint, which seems to be a "thing" with Bay Area boatyards these days (KKMI included.) Assuming you are going to go with a traditional copper-based anti fouling paint (be it hard or ablative), you want a minimum of two coats with a third at the waterline and leading/trailing edges of the appendages. This coincides with all manufacturer's recommendations as well.Kkmi. Paint? At this time
They recommended 1 coat with second coat on leading edge I'm going with 2 coats. ThanksSome advice from a professional hull cleaner- Don't let the yard talk you into just a single coat of paint, which seems to be a "thing" with Bay Area boatyards these days (KKMI included.) Assuming you are going to go with a traditional copper-based anti fouling paint (be it hard or ablative), you want a minimum of two coats with a third at the waterline and leading/trailing edges of the appendages. This coincides with all manufacturer's recommendations as well. As far as choice of paint goes; I recommend Pettit Trinidad (hard) or Interlux Micron 66 (ablative.) All other products are inferior by comparison, IMHO.
They know that with less paint on the bottom, you will be be back for another haulout much sooner than if the correct amount had been applied.They recommended 1 coat...
We sail year 'round here in the Bay Area and typically only haul every 2-3+ years for new paint. To ensure that there is enough biocide on the hull to provide anti fouling protection for 3 years, a certain mil-thickness of paint is required. This means a minimum of two coats. Going with a single coat is guaranteeing that you will need paint sooner because the biocide in a single coat will leach out to an ineffective level that much sooner. That's simply how the chemisty works.Might be the best idea to just wait to see what the bottom looks like before deciding?
Did today. Everything good and happy about thatIs still go around the keel with a very small hammer to test the adhesion of the epoxy coating to the cast iron. Doesn't take much more than a pinhole to begin the delaminating process. A visual sign would be small pockets of rust.