I've got a 1981 27 Hunter and I'm needing to replace both hatches. I've read that the hatches are no longer being made and that I'll have to totally refit them. The measurements don't seem to match up with the size charts. Can someone tell me which brand supplies the hatch I need and if I can find the original size. You help is appreciated. Thanks Russell
Hatch Replacement... which one???
- Thread starter JenAvery
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Do You Have to Replace?
Hi: My Hunter is 1980 Cherubini 36'. So likely the same brand of hatch? When I bought my boat last summer, the 27 year old plexiglass was totally weathered to opaque and the 27 year old aluminum frames looked darn ugly. But otherwise the hatches were functional. So rather than replace: I restored the plexiglass by sanding with wet/dry paper, starting with 400 grit and ending at 1500. Then used McGuire's ultra fine show car polishing compound with an orbital polishing buffer. (Tap Plastic also carries a polish supposedly formulated for plastic.) The result (although not same as new plexiglass) is almost as good. I can look up from the cabin and see the mast clearly now. As to the aluminum frames. Again, gave them a good sanding to remove the original flaking finish and oxidation. Then covered with a primer suitable for aluminum, followed by a marine enamel. My hatch gaskets weren't and still aren't leaking. But if they were, I would clean the old gaskets with a strong household cleaner, then rub them with lacquer thinner or acetone. The apply over the old gasket a self-stick product such as MD's automotive grade gasket tape. (This is the solution that I used to restore the gaskets of my boats ports. They haven't leaked during the 20 or so days of rain that we have had this past winter in the San Francisco area.) If your hatches are functional and they aren't leaking between the frame and the fiberglass, then refurbishing them probably will be a lot quicker and certainly much much less expensive than replacing them. Just an opinion and possible alternative if you hadn't considered it. regards, rardi
Hi: My Hunter is 1980 Cherubini 36'. So likely the same brand of hatch? When I bought my boat last summer, the 27 year old plexiglass was totally weathered to opaque and the 27 year old aluminum frames looked darn ugly. But otherwise the hatches were functional. So rather than replace: I restored the plexiglass by sanding with wet/dry paper, starting with 400 grit and ending at 1500. Then used McGuire's ultra fine show car polishing compound with an orbital polishing buffer. (Tap Plastic also carries a polish supposedly formulated for plastic.) The result (although not same as new plexiglass) is almost as good. I can look up from the cabin and see the mast clearly now. As to the aluminum frames. Again, gave them a good sanding to remove the original flaking finish and oxidation. Then covered with a primer suitable for aluminum, followed by a marine enamel. My hatch gaskets weren't and still aren't leaking. But if they were, I would clean the old gaskets with a strong household cleaner, then rub them with lacquer thinner or acetone. The apply over the old gasket a self-stick product such as MD's automotive grade gasket tape. (This is the solution that I used to restore the gaskets of my boats ports. They haven't leaked during the 20 or so days of rain that we have had this past winter in the San Francisco area.) If your hatches are functional and they aren't leaking between the frame and the fiberglass, then refurbishing them probably will be a lot quicker and certainly much much less expensive than replacing them. Just an opinion and possible alternative if you hadn't considered it. regards, rardi
Thanks for the quick and informative reply! Unfortunately the hatches are in worse shape than what you described. The forward hatch has only one locking latch and the arm that holds it open is gone, plus the plexiglas is broken from a misplaced hand while up on deck. So needless to say it leaks. The settee hatch is in the same shape except that the plaxiglas is not broken but it leaks as well. Thanks again. Russell
Bomar Plant Fire
If your hatches were made by Bomar, the reason you can't get exact drop-in replacements is because there was a fire at the plant that made the frames and they lost all their jigs. Depending on what hatch you want to replace they may have a close replacement. I replaced mine (different boat from yours) with a new one and the difference was in the corner radius. The new hatch had a slightly larger radius which required a bit of fill-in of fiberglass in each corner but this is not visible from the outside.
If your hatches were made by Bomar, the reason you can't get exact drop-in replacements is because there was a fire at the plant that made the frames and they lost all their jigs. Depending on what hatch you want to replace they may have a close replacement. I replaced mine (different boat from yours) with a new one and the difference was in the corner radius. The new hatch had a slightly larger radius which required a bit of fill-in of fiberglass in each corner but this is not visible from the outside.
Hatches
I replaced both of mine last season. You are 50% right. The forwrd hatch is a trapezoid shape and Lewmar doesn't make it any more. I ended up buyng a rectangle shape based on the greatest overall length and width. Hellow Sawzall. I traced the shape onto the topside and drilled a3/4 inch hole in the deepest corner and followed the tracing with the Sawzall. Fit like a glove, very tight to the v-berth bulkhead and my zip-saw got a workout to get a descnt fit and finish. I would suggest that you use a glass filler where you opened the new hole to seal up the fresh plywood exposed. Run a good seal and let it cure afew hours before you screw it down. The rear hatch is a standard and plopped right in. I'm not sure of the model #s but gray/Lewmar guided me through all the way. I believe a 924 in the rear and a927 in the forward Hatch. Not a leak since and we can see out again! Write if I can be of help.
I replaced both of mine last season. You are 50% right. The forwrd hatch is a trapezoid shape and Lewmar doesn't make it any more. I ended up buyng a rectangle shape based on the greatest overall length and width. Hellow Sawzall. I traced the shape onto the topside and drilled a3/4 inch hole in the deepest corner and followed the tracing with the Sawzall. Fit like a glove, very tight to the v-berth bulkhead and my zip-saw got a workout to get a descnt fit and finish. I would suggest that you use a glass filler where you opened the new hole to seal up the fresh plywood exposed. Run a good seal and let it cure afew hours before you screw it down. The rear hatch is a standard and plopped right in. I'm not sure of the model #s but gray/Lewmar guided me through all the way. I believe a 924 in the rear and a927 in the forward Hatch. Not a leak since and we can see out again! Write if I can be of help.
Bomar 2092
Bomar 2092 is the forward hatch. We had no problems with fit during our replacement. The link below describes the sole project on another boat. Not sure about the hatch in the main cabin - the '77 model doesn't have one! David Lady Lillie
Bomar 2092 is the forward hatch. We had no problems with fit during our replacement. The link below describes the sole project on another boat. Not sure about the hatch in the main cabin - the '77 model doesn't have one! David Lady Lillie
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