I have a crack in a hatch. Is there anything to repair it rather than replace it? It is small, near handle, but leaking. Thanks.
hatch problem
- Thread starter stoneyharbor
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Grind into crack on underside with a small rotary
ball file, preferably on a Dremmel motor. This is to widen the crack but don't go all the way through for cosmetic reasons. Fill the crack with "PC FIX' brand "PC-11 Marine Epoxy". I advise this because it is thick when mixed with the consistency of cake frosting. It will stay put where applied and will not run or sag even upside down. Smooth as desired and let sit over night. For strong results always mix epoxy thoroughly. You can then reinforce using a small patch or patches of glass cloth wetted with a runnier epoxy, perhaps using "Loctite" brand marine epoxy to wet the glass cloth as it is thick but runnier than the "PC FIX" epoxy. Both products are bright white in color. Avoid patching where lid comes in contact with hatch opening or any seal so that the lid sits flush.
ball file, preferably on a Dremmel motor. This is to widen the crack but don't go all the way through for cosmetic reasons. Fill the crack with "PC FIX' brand "PC-11 Marine Epoxy". I advise this because it is thick when mixed with the consistency of cake frosting. It will stay put where applied and will not run or sag even upside down. Smooth as desired and let sit over night. For strong results always mix epoxy thoroughly. You can then reinforce using a small patch or patches of glass cloth wetted with a runnier epoxy, perhaps using "Loctite" brand marine epoxy to wet the glass cloth as it is thick but runnier than the "PC FIX" epoxy. Both products are bright white in color. Avoid patching where lid comes in contact with hatch opening or any seal so that the lid sits flush.
Generally the idea of fixing a component may be the way to go. I had two 30 yr old bomar hatches that the lens had cracked due to excessive weight by a yard. I removed the hatch covers and took them to a local glass repair shop and had the lenses replaced. The pins referred to in the link are not machine pressed, but are simple roll pins that can be tapped out and replaced. I painted the frames after removing the lenses and the cost for the repair was less than $130.00, and they are now like new. Remember to specify the material you want to replace the old with, polycarbonate vs. acrylic. I don't remember which is preferable due to UV resistance, but the shop will know.
If the crack is small a small piece of duct tape will hardly be noticed and it will stop the leak. A decal may do the same job and disguise its function.
I have one time got lucky with super glue. Not the gel, but that thin stuff runs like water. With a moment's patience, it'll run down in a crack. If it's deep or whatever, I've thought about putting a wet vac on the other side for just a second, to try and suck more of it in. But I have repaired plexi with it. And made custom o-rings as well. Cut one and glue it back together and try to pull it apart. Nay nay.
Wow Chris, what a revelation. I'm gonna get a new tube of superglue and a variety of O ring diameters and make a do-it-yourself kit in a water/air tight case. That solves the problem of having to stock all the sizes one might possibly need. Thanks for great the tip.
Yep. I used to help a buddy out in a hydraulic shop. They had bulk rolls of o-ring material, and we commonly built countless numbers of them, with extreme pressures. 4 and 6 thousand pound assemblies. They won't break. I've even built keyrings with the stuff, they carry more comfortably in your pocket that way. I never had one come undone, and used the keys daily.
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