Can someone advice on replacing the plastic window on 10yr old lewmar hatch - which is now has lots "cracked appearances" from probably sun exposure.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hatch plastic window
- Thread starter Guan
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Send it to Select Plastics - Norwalk, CT
If you send it in February when everyone is gearing up for Spring, expect a long lead time.
Give this a try
My compass lens was getting very bad. Same deal. Cracks and hazy from UV exposure. I tried one of the headlight restore kits on it. One I used was from 3M. Made the lens almost like new. Might want to give this a try before replacing. Would certainly be easier and much cheaper.
My compass lens was getting very bad. Same deal. Cracks and hazy from UV exposure. I tried one of the headlight restore kits on it. One I used was from 3M. Made the lens almost like new. Might want to give this a try before replacing. Would certainly be easier and much cheaper.
Tooth paste will also polish the compass lens. As far as lexan replacement, take the old one out and use as a template. I bought smoked lexan and cut my own. Clean the old bedding compound from the frame and wiped it down with alcohol. put a bead of silicone, never 5200, etc. it will crack the lexan. Install the lexan and put some weight on it. Remove the paper cover after 24 hours of curing. Never use Windex, it will craze the lexan. I replaced all the lexan on my 51 footer 9 years ago and still looks like new.
There is nothing that is going to fix the checking in the acrylic once it goes. The fogging is a totally different issue and it can be fixed with many different products. I found that the Aurora Marine Products cleaner and sealer have worked best for me. The port stays clear after several months.
There is a fellow in So. Cal. (Newport Beach) that also does the acrylic replacement. I think he charges approx. $200 for a large (20 x 20) hatch.
There is a fellow in So. Cal. (Newport Beach) that also does the acrylic replacement. I think he charges approx. $200 for a large (20 x 20) hatch.
Cayennita,
You're the MAN! (Or woman, can't tell). Never use any type of urethane sealant on polycarbonate. It WILL craze because of it. Also, anything with ammonia (Windex) will craze and cloud plastic of all types. Good ol' dish washing soap is best.
If there is a lip to install this on, consider 3M VHB tape. Adhere the light with that, about 1/4" back from the edges. Mask the glazing and wherever you don't want to get sealant. Run a nice bead of DOW 995 in that gap and TOOL it smooth. Sealant must be tooled to be water tight. Anybody that tells you differently is speak a dialect of testosterone. Home Depot sells a caulking smoother the does a good job of liquefying the outer surface of the joint and really smoothing it out. Pull the tape almost immediately. The result is a bead that looks like a perfect rubber gasket.
I work for a commercial glazing company.
You're the MAN! (Or woman, can't tell). Never use any type of urethane sealant on polycarbonate. It WILL craze because of it. Also, anything with ammonia (Windex) will craze and cloud plastic of all types. Good ol' dish washing soap is best.
If there is a lip to install this on, consider 3M VHB tape. Adhere the light with that, about 1/4" back from the edges. Mask the glazing and wherever you don't want to get sealant. Run a nice bead of DOW 995 in that gap and TOOL it smooth. Sealant must be tooled to be water tight. Anybody that tells you differently is speak a dialect of testosterone. Home Depot sells a caulking smoother the does a good job of liquefying the outer surface of the joint and really smoothing it out. Pull the tape almost immediately. The result is a bead that looks like a perfect rubber gasket.
I work for a commercial glazing company.
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