My two plexiglass hatches are crazed, and I would like to replace just the glass. Can anyone give me any info on where to buy or what to do? THANKS!
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most glazers work with plexi, too
you can bring him the whole hatch or just the plexiglass as a template. If he does the whole thing, I'd make sure he uses a marine grade sealant... I doubt there's be a difference, but anything to avoid a future leak is worth it, right?
you can bring him the whole hatch or just the plexiglass as a template. If he does the whole thing, I'd make sure he uses a marine grade sealant... I doubt there's be a difference, but anything to avoid a future leak is worth it, right?
I am not sure if it is too late Mike
But for some there is a means of removing the crazing. I have Lewmar on my boat. The owners manual indicates that you can refinish them by first wet sanding with a fine wet paper, say 400 to 600 or finer grit and eventually working your way up to the 1800 to 2000 grit range and then eventually finishing up with a cutting compound and then a polishing compound and then completing the project with waxing. If you are prepared to replace them, then to try and do this will cost nothing other than your time and some minor material costs. Good luck, let me know how it comes out if you try to refinish in lieu of replacement.
But for some there is a means of removing the crazing. I have Lewmar on my boat. The owners manual indicates that you can refinish them by first wet sanding with a fine wet paper, say 400 to 600 or finer grit and eventually working your way up to the 1800 to 2000 grit range and then eventually finishing up with a cutting compound and then a polishing compound and then completing the project with waxing. If you are prepared to replace them, then to try and do this will cost nothing other than your time and some minor material costs. Good luck, let me know how it comes out if you try to refinish in lieu of replacement.
Plexi polishing
I just polished up my port windows on my O222 by simply using an RO buffer and polish made specifically for plastic. It removed all of the oxidations and about 95% of the scratches. Only a few of the finer scratches and of course some of the deeper scratches are left. I spent maybe a total of about 10 minutes polishing each one. If I spent another 10 on each they'd probably be about perfect.
I just polished up my port windows on my O222 by simply using an RO buffer and polish made specifically for plastic. It removed all of the oxidations and about 95% of the scratches. Only a few of the finer scratches and of course some of the deeper scratches are left. I spent maybe a total of about 10 minutes polishing each one. If I spent another 10 on each they'd probably be about perfect.
Hunter Owners Monday Mail
There was just a posting on the weekly Hunter Owners newsletter about your question. They didn't mention the manufacturer but you may be able to use the advice: Q. What is the most cost effective way to replace crazed hatch lenses? A. The degree of difficulty and convience of replacing acrylic varies greatly with the type of hatch. Low/Medium Profile Hatches require that you order a replacment that will come with a new acrylic and a seal that is bonded to the acrylic. The frame separates at the screws on the lower side and the new bits slilde into where the old acrylic was. These hatches were launched in 1998, and are what Hunter currently use on several models. If they are LP then you should see those joining screws on the under side of the frame. If they are not LP, then the acrylic is chemically bonded to the frame, and has to be installed in a controlled atmosphere. This requires that the lid be removed and sent in for repair.
There was just a posting on the weekly Hunter Owners newsletter about your question. They didn't mention the manufacturer but you may be able to use the advice: Q. What is the most cost effective way to replace crazed hatch lenses? A. The degree of difficulty and convience of replacing acrylic varies greatly with the type of hatch. Low/Medium Profile Hatches require that you order a replacment that will come with a new acrylic and a seal that is bonded to the acrylic. The frame separates at the screws on the lower side and the new bits slilde into where the old acrylic was. These hatches were launched in 1998, and are what Hunter currently use on several models. If they are LP then you should see those joining screws on the under side of the frame. If they are not LP, then the acrylic is chemically bonded to the frame, and has to be installed in a controlled atmosphere. This requires that the lid be removed and sent in for repair.
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