I've got a 1974 catalina 22' My hatch boards and hatch had a 1" gap between them.I moved the outside boards that hold the hatch boards in place,in enough to fill the gap at top.I raised the footsill also. The weather had changed to sunny days and 35-45 degrees,so I uncovered the boat and opened it up.The bottom hatch board seemed like it swelded,so I had to use a screw driver to pop it loose.I'am going to sand the outside edges,but can't figure if the hatch boards were varnished are oiled.I need to put something on the sanded edges,since today is white again,because of the snow lastnite. Happy sailing to those of you that can sail at this time of year. JIM
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Shiny or flat?
Jim, If your boards have been varnished, they should have a shiny finish to them. Even if they were varnished eons ago, the insides or the insides of the air vents should show shiny. Oiled teak does not appear shiny. I can't understand what would cause your lowest board to swell enough to bind. Is it possible you got the outside boards installed in such a way they are pinching the board and they need to be repositioned? Finally, was the one inch gap betwen the top board and the hatch cover there last summer? Or is this somethng that just appeared recently. Eric
Jim, If your boards have been varnished, they should have a shiny finish to them. Even if they were varnished eons ago, the insides or the insides of the air vents should show shiny. Oiled teak does not appear shiny. I can't understand what would cause your lowest board to swell enough to bind. Is it possible you got the outside boards installed in such a way they are pinching the board and they need to be repositioned? Finally, was the one inch gap betwen the top board and the hatch cover there last summer? Or is this somethng that just appeared recently. Eric
hatch gap
I picked the catalina up in mid summer.The gap was already there.It's like the outside boards for the hatch boards were to far apart which would allow the hatch boards to sit lower.By moving the outside boards in a bit,it raised the hatchboard up to close the gap.The boards don't look shiny.What type of oil would I get to finish these?It's snowing now,so varnishing is out of the question. Thanks JIM
I picked the catalina up in mid summer.The gap was already there.It's like the outside boards for the hatch boards were to far apart which would allow the hatch boards to sit lower.By moving the outside boards in a bit,it raised the hatchboard up to close the gap.The boards don't look shiny.What type of oil would I get to finish these?It's snowing now,so varnishing is out of the question. Thanks JIM
Teak oil
Jim, Sounds like they have been treated with teak oil. If the oil has "died out" the wood may be taking on a silvery color. You can get teak oil at any marine supply store. Depending on the condition of the wood, you may need to sand the boards first, then apply several coats of the oil per bottle instructions. If they are in bad shape, you may need to use a teak cleaner, then apply the oil. The people at the store should be able to look at one of your boards and tell you what you'll need to do. There are other products than teak oil that do essentially the same thing...I've included a link to one (I'm not recommending it as I've never used it...I'm just aware that this stuff is available.). But be aware if you go with regular teak oil, you will likely have to reapply it a couple of times a season. As far as varnishing goes, have you considered removing the woodwork and taking it home to work on? Eric
Jim, Sounds like they have been treated with teak oil. If the oil has "died out" the wood may be taking on a silvery color. You can get teak oil at any marine supply store. Depending on the condition of the wood, you may need to sand the boards first, then apply several coats of the oil per bottle instructions. If they are in bad shape, you may need to use a teak cleaner, then apply the oil. The people at the store should be able to look at one of your boards and tell you what you'll need to do. There are other products than teak oil that do essentially the same thing...I've included a link to one (I'm not recommending it as I've never used it...I'm just aware that this stuff is available.). But be aware if you go with regular teak oil, you will likely have to reapply it a couple of times a season. As far as varnishing goes, have you considered removing the woodwork and taking it home to work on? Eric
Teakguard
I bought a 84 Cat. 22 this fall. The trim was in real need of some work. Everything was gray and looked like it should be replaced. I saw the product that Eric was talking about ie Teakguard. I gave it a try last fall and it came out real nice. I have not heard of anyone else using this product, but I was very happy with it. It does not stain, so it make using it alot simpler to use. I will have to wait until this summer to see how it holds up. I can tell you however, that one of the tricks to making it come out right is using the cleaner. If you try and skip that step of the process you are in for trouble. I spoke to the owner who sell this product and he said that if you keep it up after you refinish it, you will not have to use the cleaner again. You will if you let it go back to gray again. Give it a try, I think you will like it. Also if anyone has used this product how do you like it? Hopes this helps alittle Dale
I bought a 84 Cat. 22 this fall. The trim was in real need of some work. Everything was gray and looked like it should be replaced. I saw the product that Eric was talking about ie Teakguard. I gave it a try last fall and it came out real nice. I have not heard of anyone else using this product, but I was very happy with it. It does not stain, so it make using it alot simpler to use. I will have to wait until this summer to see how it holds up. I can tell you however, that one of the tricks to making it come out right is using the cleaner. If you try and skip that step of the process you are in for trouble. I spoke to the owner who sell this product and he said that if you keep it up after you refinish it, you will not have to use the cleaner again. You will if you let it go back to gray again. Give it a try, I think you will like it. Also if anyone has used this product how do you like it? Hopes this helps alittle Dale
There ya go!
There ya go, Jim. Varnish or TeakGuard. Either way, you could pull all the brightwork off the boat, throw a blue tarp over the "hole" and do this in the relative comfort of your garage. Glad to hear that TeakGuard works, Dale. I am just finishing up varnishing all the wood on "No News," but I've oiled teak in the past, and this product sounded like it was a better way to go. Eric
There ya go, Jim. Varnish or TeakGuard. Either way, you could pull all the brightwork off the boat, throw a blue tarp over the "hole" and do this in the relative comfort of your garage. Glad to hear that TeakGuard works, Dale. I am just finishing up varnishing all the wood on "No News," but I've oiled teak in the past, and this product sounded like it was a better way to go. Eric
bottom seal
When I first bought my boat it had a piece of soft clear hose attached to the bottom crib board. I'd guess 3/4", that one wore out and I found a replacement hose at H/D that was very similar to replace it. Just trimmed to fit then replaced the four screws that held in it place. You might look at the bottom and see if there are four or five small screws there.
When I first bought my boat it had a piece of soft clear hose attached to the bottom crib board. I'd guess 3/4", that one wore out and I found a replacement hose at H/D that was very similar to replace it. Just trimmed to fit then replaced the four screws that held in it place. You might look at the bottom and see if there are four or five small screws there.
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